trek road bikes

I am moving from mountain biking into road biking - and I'm finding that my mountain bike gets mighty heavy after 20 or so miles on the road. A road bike seems to be the answer. I've been looking at the Trek 2100 and 1800C. Has anyone had experience with these bikes?
I am 5'6", 135 lbs. - my LBS suggested I go into a regular frame rather than a WSD model. I am interested in fitness rides (25-50 miles) not racing. I'm in good shape but, at age 50, I am not going to be getting any more flexible. I thought the more upright posture of the 1800C might be an advantage. The guys at the LBS are stressing performance over comfort. Help! Any ideas?

First of all don't let your local LBS steer you towards something you don't want. If you don't want racy don't buy something racy. No matter how pushy they are.

I don't ride a Trek, but here are my thoughts after reading the specs and looking at the bikes.

http://www.trekbikes.com/images/bike...large/2100.jpg

This is the 2100. My back hurts just looking at this. Look at the handlebar position in relationship to the saddle. You can't be upright and have your hands on the handlebars. To raise the stem to where you'd have the option to be more upright you'd need to get a new stem since this one is threadless and has no adjustibility. An adjustable stem will run you $50 - $80.

The gearing is also set pretty high at 52-42-30. You may have no problem since you're a mountain biker. I ride a 46-36-24. Granted I do a lot of hills so I need the lower gearing. But I consider myself a pretty strong rider and I wouldn't want to push a bigger gear. My knees aren't getting any younger. :)

http://www.trekbikes.com/images/bike...dium/1800c.jpg

This is the 1800C. To me it looks like you have more options for riding. With your hands on the top of the bar, you're fairly upright. If you want to get more aerodynamic you can go out to the hoods or down into the drops. This is a much more comfortable looking bike. But it has the same front chain ring ratio of 52-42-30 as the 2100.

Neither Trek comes in a very wide variety of sizes. Bike stores tend to push you to ride a smaller bike. I'm nearly 5'5" and I ride a 54. Make sure you try something at least that big. I suspect that they'll push you towards a 50 or a 52. But try the larger size before you buy.

http://www.tandemhearts.com/rbw-2004...s/FA1G3526.jpg

This is a Rivendell. Notice how her handlebars and saddle are about equal in height. Because the stem is threaded you can adjust the height of the bars. She could raise them even higher if she wanted to. I don't know what gearing she has, but she did climb up Mount Diablo at 3600+ feet without blowing out her knees.

Rivs aren't for everyone. They're steel and they're kind of expensive. Two big turn offs for a lot of folks. But their ideas on comfort are worth noting and trying to duplicate in whatever bike you do get.

Happy Shopping!

Veronica

I have to agree with Veronica...the picture does not due that bike the justice...HOWEVER...you do have several options if you decide on TREK. First off, I have a Trek that I just love, and like yours the gearing was pretty high, so I added a triple upfront and now have the gamut of gears. I have also ridden the bike you are interested and did find it to be a sweet ride, the bike I test rode did have a different groupo then listed, it had Ultegra and that
can make a significant difference. As far as the stem goes, have your LBS fit you, or consider an agreement where you can change the stem out if need be later on. Stem length has been bothersome for me also, I just changed mine from a 100 to a much smaller 80 and my lower back appreciates the difference. Good luck with your search, let me know what you settle on.

karen

pm8588,

The "guys" at the bike shop? Are there any women who work there that you could talk to? Might help a bit...........

Don't let them talk you into something you don't want. Sounds to me like you are pretty sure of how you want to ride! Also, are they assuming you don't need a WSD because of what? Your height? That's only one measurement for a bike fit. Do they have any WSD bikes in the shop that would fit you? Is it possible they want to sell you what they have in stock? You definitely need to test ride some of the bikes and see how they feel to you. The 2100 is a great bike. It is built for performance, for fast riding, even some racing, if you wanted to. But it doesn't sound like that's what you're interested in. The 1800C is made for riding long or short distances on the road. It's made to more comfortable that a racing bike. I don't know what type of terrain you'll be riding on, but (my own personal opinion) is that you'll have a wide enough range of gears to go anywhere. I have a 52-42-30 on front and a 12/25 on the rear. It's always been plenty. No mountains here, but I've ridden mountains and not had problems. And we do have very hilly terrain, fairly short, but quite steep. I wouldn't want to be without my 52 for on the flats. I'm not disagreeing with Veronica here, it's just that we all have our own experiences and know what's works for us as individuals so hopefully, the more ideas shared, the easier it will be for you decide what will work for you. Good luck! Let us know what you decide.

Veronica,

Just curious........ why do you recommend a larger over a smaller frame if a person is between sizes? I tend to go for the smaller, but maybe that's because for years, I rode bikes that were too big until I finally got smart enough to know what I needed and swore I'd never ride a "big" bike again. :p

annie

It's not so much that I recommend the larger frame, but I think it's important to give it a try so an individual can decide what is the right fit.

If I knew then, what I know now, we probably would not have bought the tandem we did. Now I love riding the tandem, but I feel so squished on it. And I thought that's the way you were supposed to feel on a bike. When I went in to get fitted for my single, I came up between sizes. They wanted me to go with the 56, but I felt that was too big, so I chose the 54. And I do not feel squished! My hands don't fall asleep, like they do on the tandem. It's a good thing I can ride no handed back there! Now I put up with this discomfort because there are other advantages to being on the tandem, SPEED and couple time. It's a lot of fun to do a century or a double metric on the tandem. Especially on a course with lots of rolling hills.

I guess it's the rebel in me, saying ride because it's fun and don't let marketing influence your decision too much. If racing is your thing - great! get the racy bike because YOU want it. If not, you don't need super light components or high gears. Especially if you're just getting into riding. You don't need funny clothes and funny shoes either. And it seems like many bike stores want to cram all this down our throats. You're not a real cyclist unless you're clipped and wearing spandex. How does that make you a real cyclist? Eddie Merckx - arguably the world's greatest cyclist - didn't win the Tour, the Giro and the Vuelta with clipless pedals. :D But I do think he was in tight shorts.

Now I do have a pair of cages on my bike that cost $35.00 each. :p Because I thought they were pretty. They're hand brazed steel. They seemed to go with the bike and I got them when I bought Fluffy, so it was all included in the final purchase price. BUT it was my decision to get them, not somebody else saying you really need these. And I do ride clipped in, most of the time, because I prefer it. Not because it makes me faster, but because I find standing on hills a lot easier and my cadence is smoother, which makes my shifting smoother. Important on a bike with friction shifters.
http://www.tandemhearts.com/bike/ram...-w-fenders.jpg
(Look at those cool water bottle cages!)

About gearing - it's not so much the 52 versus 46 that I get hung up on. It's the other end 30 versus 24. I've ridden the tandem (it has a 52) by myself - no stoker and you can really fly. It really is about where you plan to ride and what feels good to you. When the grade kicks up I'm very thankful for my 24 - 28. I may not go very fast, but my knees (they're 20 years older than the rest of me) will survive to get me to the top.

Sorry for the long, ranty ramble. I just want us chicks to be informed consumers and buy what is right for us - whatever that may be. Not what some 20something guy (that's my LBS I wish I could shop where Pedalfaster works) or folks in my club try to push me toward. "Do you really need a third water bottle? That's so much extra weight." Said by the guy who later ran out of water.:D

Veronica

Wow! Thanks for all the great advice! And the pictures defintely helped me get the point.
I have expanded my search somewhat to include the Specialized Sequoia - similar geometry to the Trek 1800C which allows more versatility in riding posture. Did a test ride on the Sequoia tonight and i was a dream. But after lugging my mountain bike around, any of these road bikes feels good!
I am still uncertain about the gearing issue. I ride in western Pennsylvania. Hills galore, poorly graded (at least the back roads).
One more issue - shifters, derailleurs. How much difference is there in the Shimano 105 vs. Shimano Ultegra. Worth spending the extra bucks?

I have two bikes...one with 105 and one with Ultegra. I think the Ultegra is a bit smoother in shifting, but there's not a major noticeable difference in feel. I only wound up with Ultegra on one bike because I wanted to switch from a triple to a double (there are no mountains in Texas to fight with) and my husband decided to upgrade me for our 5th anniversary. Isn't that just the sweetest? Ok, all that to say...the 105 is fine and works just about as well as the Ultegra as far as I can tell...but that's just my .02

Happy riding!!
Steph

Ohh twilight zone time. I had a customer (female, 50s) just a few weeks ago looking at those exact two bikes!

She kept walking over to the 2100 and picking it up and exclaiming "It's sooooo light".

Sad, but true, the components that help make the 1800c comfy (suspension seatpost and adjustable stem) also add weight.

Your Trek dealer should be able to order those items for you if you want to add them to the 2100.

What we did for our customer? Made sure the top tube length on the 2100 was appropriate for her. Ordered and installed a shorter stem with more rise (we went with non-adjustable to shave weight; once you have fit dialed in on a road bike you really won't be messing with it too much) and rotated her handlebars ever-so-slightly upwards. She opted to skip the suspension seat post as she found that the carbon chainstays provided enough comfort.

What should you do? Go with the bike that feels best to you and best suits your needs. Our customer was planning to ride ~50 mile club rides and was on her second (perhaps third...) road bike. She wanted lightweight.

If your main goal is comfort and you plan to go with a suspension seatpost and adjustable stem anyway, I'd probably urge you to go with the 1800c.

As far as the 105 vs. Ultegra debate, the newer 105 is fine. I used to say save up for Ultegra if you plan to race, but I'm seeing 105 on beginner race bikes these days. It's neat how technology trickles down!

Gearing: try to test ride the bike up a few hills. If you need a larger (easier) cog on the back you should be able to get a 25 or 27 with out toooo much trouble. You could also have a smaller small chainring installed. Are you able to get up hills in your area on your mtb in the middle chainring (usually a 32)? You could also ask friends with similar abilities what gearing they run.

You're lucky to live in an area with such beautiful terrain (My daughter will be going to school in Pittsburgh this fall and I plan to visit--and ride!-- often :D )

Veronica: I moved from Austin TX where every bikeshop had at least one female employee. At the beginning of this season I attended the Trek/Gary Fisher/Lemond tech session (for shop employees) in Indianapolis....and I was the only female in the room. Yikes! :rolleyes:

Hi,

I too have been looking at the Specialized bikes (Sequoia, Sirrus, And Roubaix. Oddly I am having trouble locating them in a bike store in LA (in my size) so I can test ride.

I too have been riding a mt bike on the roads for years and finally decided after a wonderful cycling vacation in France that it was time for a road bike.

I like the idea of a road bike with a more upright position like the bikes mentioned above and of course lightness is key. I too am used to a low gear for those canyon climbs in LA and I don't know how a road bike will compare. I haven't ridden one since I was a teenager.

The "guy" (they are always guys aren't they) at the bike shop told me that in this day and age it's not worth paying extra on components as the 105s are great and the only difference I would notice is longevity.

Anyhow if anyone has tested these Specialized bikes (that is coming from riding a mountain bike) I'd love to hear their feedback. I can't bring myself to spend that kind of monye without riding it first so I will just patiently search until I can find one to ride.

Also since I'm new here to te I was wondering about this Cinderella ride. I keep reading things about it but can't find anything about what it is or where it is, etc. Do you all know each other? Do you all train together? Give me the lowdown. I'm looking for people to ride with.

Thanks.
yanskasso

Cinderella is a bike ride for women put on by the Valley spokesmen in Livermore, CA - east side of San Francisco Bay. A google search on Cinderella Bike Ride should bring them up.

V.

I have actually been riding on a Specialized Sequoia bike and I LOVE it!!!!! I'm pretty small (5'1) so I had to go with their 'extra small' frame (47 cm). I am not a racer, but I use it for long distance rides and for climbing some steep hills....I really feel like I'm floating over the road and dancing up those hills;)) Of course, in the end, it all comes down to how the bike feels and fits for each individual. I tested out lots of bikes before finally deciding on this one, so only you will know what's right for you. But, I must say I do love it!

-sandra

pm8588 wrote: "I am interested in fitness rides (25-50 miles) not racing. I'm in good shape but, at age 50, I am not going to be getting any more flexible."

pm8588, you can tell from the user ID I like Trek, but I now have a custom steel bike. Folks have been clammering for a picture of her, this one's pretty good so here goes.

Note the relatively upright posture, note the slight smile on my face after 4 days of back to back centuries. She's comfy ;-)

http://home.pacbell.net/dita_rae/day4.html

I'm 48 and fit is soo important, as my LBS says "you're faster when you're more comfortable".

Quote:

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Originally posted by Veronica
....I don't know what gearing she has, but she did climb up Mount Diablo at 3600+ feet without blowing out her knees.

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... this from the woman who's telling me "oh, it's not that hard, it'll be fun" :D

Remember I have that little 24 in the front and that big 28 in the back. I climb at a snail's pace, but it never (well hardly ever) hurts. :p

V.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Veronica
Bike stores tend to push you to ride a smaller bike. I'm nearly 5'5" and I ride a 54. Make sure you try something at least that big. I suspect that they'll push you towards a 50 or a 52. But try the larger size before you buy.

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Just bear in mind that frame geometries differ, and that a 54 cm frame from one manufacturer can feel very different from a 54 cm frame from another manufacturer. Rivendell frames have lower bottom brackets and shallower (less vertical) seat tube angles than most other frames, the net result being that for a given frame size, the top tube on a Riv bike will be closer to the ground than the top tube for, say, a Trek. I'm 5'7" and I ride a 57cm Riv Romulus (like V. I was between 2 sizes, 55 and 57 but I opted for the larger size), but I imagine on a different bike I might take a smaller frame, simply on account of the different geometry, I'm not sure I would even be able to straddle the top tube of a 57cm Trek - not that I've actually tried.