When headsets go bad

How would I know if I needed to replace the bearings in my headset?

If I held the front end of the bike off the ground, and turned the front wheel left or right just a tiny bit, let it go, and it moved itself back to center, would that be a bad sign?

If it "fought me" going slowly in a parking lot (steering with hands rather than hips at that speed) is that bad?

How do I tell tension from the cables from wear in the headset?

Flossie does these things, Commutermobile doesn't. But Commutermobile has huge loose floppy loops of cable in front, and Flossies are streamlined and fairly snug.

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Originally Posted by KnottedYet

How would I know if I needed to replace the bearings in my headset?

If I held the front end of the bike off the ground, and turned the front wheel left or right just a tiny bit, let it go, and it moved itself back to center, would that be a bad sign?

If it "fought me" going slowly in a parking lot (steering with hands rather than hips at that speed) is that bad?

How do I tell tension from the cables from wear in the headset?

Flossie does these things, Commutermobile doesn't. But Commutermobile has huge loose floppy loops of cable in front, and Flossies are streamlined and fairly snug.

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Sounds like your headset could be worn. It's usually the fork crown race that gets a little dimple where each bearing sits, so it likes to stay there and will behave as it it's spring loaded and want to go back to straight ahead when you turn it slightly. If it behaves that way on slight turns, it's the headset and not the cables (but make sure the cables have enough slack to turn at least 30 degrees before they start to tighten). I assume Flossie has a 1 inch threaded headset without sealed bearings. It could be that the headset is a bit tight, and that will make the spring-loaded feeling worse. So you could loosen it a bit and see if that helps. But don't loosen so much that you get jiggling noises when you bounce the front wheel on the ground. You can still ride this bike safely as long as the spring-loaded feeling doesn't affect your control. You can get used to it like that and hardly notice it (but you'll notice when you swap bikes). It's usually caused by riding with the headset a might loose and hitting a pothole. A notched headset should be replaced sooner or later. Let the LBS do it - takes some expensive tools to remove and install crown races and head cups, and the spacer thickness has to be correct.

thanks Deb!

Next question: what is the best threaded headset I could get for Flossie? I hear folks refer to Chris King, Cane Creek, etc.

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Originally Posted by KnottedYet

thanks Deb!

Next question: what is the best threaded headset I could get for Flossie? I hear folks refer to Chris King, Cane Creek, etc.

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I don't know much about what's available. I recently put a Campy Chorus 1 inch threaded headset on my bike, and it's fairly nice. Think I paid $50. Cane Creek doesn't seem to make any threaded headsets. Chris King makes a top nut adapter so their headsets will work with threaded steerers. Priced around $125.

Looks like Flossie might be getting some more Campy!

My Campy Chorus is traditional serviceable bearings (not sealed in cartridges). But it does have semi-sealing mechanisms where the race and cup join, so shouldn't need servicing to often.

You can't have too much Campy...well maybe you can :o

Got a little Campy envy there, Trek? What's on Menace?

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Originally Posted by Trek420

You can't have too much Campy...well maybe you can :o

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But it hurt my feelings to replace a Campy Record headset with a Campy Chorus headset. Though I'm guessing the quality of Chorus now is as good as Record in 1985.

Is this what I need for Flossie?

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...A%20Campagnolo

I suppose I should ask the LBS, since they are gonna have to do all the work. That will be in about a year, cuz i can't afford diddly-squid right now.

Yup, that's what you need (assuming your Waterford takes an English headset which is very likely). But I can't figure out if they really have it. I go to the headset page, click on threaded headsets, and it's not there. I go to the threadless and there is a Campy Record for $55. On the link you gave, it pictures a threaded and the spec sheet says threaded, but if you click for a bigger picture you get a threadless. If they really had Campy Record 1" threaded headsets for that price, I'd scarf one up. Then I'd make you a good deal on a slightly used Chorus headset.

But I'm still looking for an older headset with a tapered crown race. All the new ones have flat races which are meant for forks with recesses brake bolts. My non-recessed brake bolt only turns 1/32 at a time with a flat crown race just above it.

Hey, if you decide to do that, it's a deal. I can't afford a pretty new Record, and I need a new headset. I'd be happy to buy your Chorus!