Don't let DH see this Post!

I think this is the place....

When I start looking seriously at road bikes, there are probably things to look for besides pretty paint. There's that lovely Dolce (specialized) down at the LBS yesterday, with the carbon fork/aluminum frame, and that makes sense, I think. It's got a "triple" which sounds like a very good thing for me, since I have enough trouble on hills without taking away that tiny gear up front! The brake lever system on the $800 version looked like a good thing for me, though the shifter system on the $1200 version looked like a better way to go. Bike guy said that the extra brake levers could be added to the nicer bike if I wanted them. Pedals -- gotta have my clipless pedals when I get around to doing this. Bike guy says that the frames are all mostly the same, that I wouldn't "gain" much by going up to the Ruby, really, so a Dolce would be cool. I AM just getting started after all. Don't need real fancy stuff yet. But I got thinking about wheels. Tires, spokes, that sort of thing.

Something about people having problems with things breaking, cuz maybe they're too heavy for the components struck home: I want to be sure I'm buying stuff that can handle me when I get to it, cuz at least for now, I'm a "clydesdale" (at least those monsters are beautiful horses!)

SO, the question is, I guess, are things I should take into consideration as a larger rider?

Karen in Boise, who's more and more tempted....

Karen, i'm not sure how big you are, but my son has a BIG friend, 220 lb guy
huge muscles, etc, he's broken cranks and other bike parts before just pedalling. I guess you should ask the LBS guy but definitely if you are really big heavy and strong you are going to break stuff more easily than a lightweight like me!

You can always add the extra brake levers (on flat part of handlebar) to any road bike you get, and it's about $35 installed. I've done it to both road bikes I've owned, and I love them.

Jen -- I didn't know they still made those, since I haven't seen 'em since I was a kid. I am SO adding them onto whatever road bike I get! They're a definite, like the triple front gear gizmo!

Mimi -- that's good to know -- so far, I'm in the neighborhood of your son's friend. Probably not as strong, though! (on the up-side, I've dropped a little more again...)

Bike shop guy says I'll drop ten pounds of bike going from my Expedition to something like the Dolce -- DH says, better to drop it from your body. Well, I'm working on that! Can't see any reason to avoid having fun tools to do it, though...

Karen in Boise (whose husband will probably avoid the bike shop to find some fall/winter clothes in order to keep ME out of there!)

Just my 2cents here but with the research I have done, I don't believe there are any bike frames out there that have weight restrictions. I think its the components that become a problem with added (excess) weight. Like wheels/tires. And as Sadie stated, forks, etc.

I can tell you that from one bike shop to the next, I have heard different things. One LBS stated that Orbea was not recommended for clydesdale riders, but Orbea themselves stated they have no weight restrictions on the frame. Another LBS thought the Orbea would be just fine with the proper components.

So... my point? I think the bike frame could be just about any you want, just make sure of the added components.

No, not true. If you research components, you will see that there will be weight limits on things like carbon forks and bars (some carbon steerer tubes are not built for big folks - AlphaQ had or has one). Wheels sets -- I think I remember one from Velocity that had a weight limit. The stuff is out there. Even stock bikes are built with the assumption that the rider will fall within a certain weight for his or her height. The bike may not technically have a manufacter's restriction but it sure won't perform or last as well as it would for someone within the expected limits. It is always worth asking if you are concerned. Ask the shop about the durability of the bike for heavier rides. Wheels will generally be the first thing affected. Some frames have the same issue. Maybe no weight restriction but just aren't happy with a heavier rider. Some frames don't like lightweight riders and beat the crap out of them (this is where aluminum frames got their reputation as the first tubing had no compliancy). Really lightweight steel and Ti tubing can get flexy in large sizes. So, you have to consider performance as well as warranty.

Wider tires can make a comfier ride for anyone.

Sadie, thank you!

In some ways, I think it's probably better to be sure that my bike can handle me --- when I find what I want --- than to figure I can just replace and replace and replace, though perhaps starting with a frame and such that's sturdy enough, and then as things need it, buying sturdy parts that also upgrade the bike a bit is tempting. Wheels were one of the things I had a feeling were going to be important to consider. Now: what do I want to know about wheels before I let some sales guy talk me into something I don't have a clue about?!?!?! What makes one wheel set sturdier than another -- number of spokes? "arrangement" of those spokes? the gauge of the wire used for the spokes? anything else? Am I better off trading those up when I purchase whatever bike I settle on and then upgrading when they need it?

Ideally, my weight issue will dwindle, but anyone who's dealt with weight knows it's easier to say than do! I'm learning not to plan too many pounds ahead, even though I'm keeping the long term goal in sight (kind of like making sure I can at least see where DH has gotten to rather than keeping up with him!)

That carbon stuff -- while we're talking about it -- on the Dolce and Dolce Elite, they have carbon forks, but the Elite also has this little Zertz thingie in the fork. It's like a plastic smooshy maybe? Supposed to dampen vibration. Does it then also sort of weaken the fork, making it a less than desirable choice for me at this stage in my biking life? The gears and shifter stuff on the Elite seem like things I'd really rather have, even if I'm better off without "Zertz" now.

Shifting -- yup, I'm rambling, late at night.... -- the base level Dolce has a button for my thumb on the hoods. I think that's for down-shifting? Anyway, it looked less than convenient compared to the pair of levers that the Elite model has. (these would be "brifters" that I've heard of but never understood exactly?)

Again, thanks for putting up with me, ladies! I learn so much from you all! And I'm starting to feel a little less like a moron when I shop! (surreptitiously yet, since DH says I have to keep riding this bike...)

Karen in Boise

If you are worried about strength then I would suggest to take the Dolce instead of the Dolce Elite. The extra carbon back would only make it weaker. There is allways great discussion if a carbon rear really adds something to a bike. Sure it looks better (tmho) but it doesn't bring any extra. Some bike manufactures even stopped making those combined frames since they experienced problems with them. I wouldn't worry to much the strength of the frame if you take a classic frame (without to much carbon added). The gear components are more likely to give in first, the can be very fragile when exposed to more weight or strnegth then they were designed for.

About the wheels, if you want strong wheels then you should get some hand build, classic woven, 36 spoke wheels. If you got a good LBS then he can make them for you. Brands like Mavic have some good quality rims (CPX33 are really strong). Often factory build wheels have weight limits on them (even the expensive once), the rule is often that should think about getting normal spoked wheels starting at a weight of about 200 pounds.

Personally I prefer the lever for shifting, especially when you get cold fingers or wear thick gloves. I have read stories that the tiagra group is significantly better then the sora group, but I can't tell if that is true from personal experience.

I have both a 2004 Dolce Elite and a 2006 Ruby Expert. I love both bikes, although I have to say I do love Ruby better. Dolce has now become my commuter bike. Dolce was my first road bike, and she was a really great first. None of the Dolces had carbon seat stays when I bought her, but I don't think you'll lose anything by getting a bike with the carbon seatstays. If anything, it'll be a smoother ride. In looking at Specialized's website, it looks as though both Dolce and Dolce Elite have the carbon seat stays. As for the Zertz inserts - they are only for vibration damping - and they have been engineered as to not make the fork or seat stays weaker. I have the Zertz inserts on both my carbon fork for Dolce and on my frame for Ruby. So don't worry!

If you're worried about being heavier on these frames, then I would advise you to look at both steel and titanium frames also, just as a frame of reference and for more understanding and knowledge. I know carbon frames aren't recommended for larger people, although I really haven't heard any real horror stories. But I would definitely look into the matter more if you're concerned. And for components - definitely don't settle for the cheapest (i.e. Sora) if you have the $$ to upgrade to a higher componentry set such as 105s or Ultegra. It will make a difference with wear and fatigue of the components along with your ride quality.

Good luck! Hope this helps. Let us know what you decide and if you have any other questions!

I have seen frames with weight restrictions... and actually one of them was an aluminum frame, which surprised me because I always associated weight restrictions with carbon fiber and with titanium.

Being over the weight limit will void the manufacturer's warranty in some cases. And more importantly, you want to be sure that you don't suffer a mishap with your equipment and possibly get hurt! So if you're not sure, check first with the manufacturer's website and call them if you're still in doubt. I've called Specialized's toll free number and they were pretty helpful.

Congrats for getting and staying on the bike, regardless of whether it's for fun, fitness, weight loss, or all of the above.

~Cari

Most stock guys frames are built for a 170 lb rider. Often WSD frames are built for even lighter riders. I was talking to a rather heavy guy at our club Xmass party last night (maybe 250-300 lb), and he said he broke several frames before going custom. With custom steel, your framebuiler selects tubes to support your weight and give you the performance characteristics and geometry you want. Same for components, wheels, etc. I know a guy who I do not consider heavy at ~200 lb that broke several frames. You didn't say how heavy you are. If you are 170 or less you can probably ride any guys bikes, but I'm not sure the weight recommendations on the womens models. If you are heavier than that, you may be best off with steel, and the heavier you are the beefier the steel. If you are actively slimming down, then maybe DHs suggestion to wait a bit before buying your dream bike isn't a terrible one if you are having fun on what you have. You can make it a kind of reward, and use it to help you reach your goals (I've dealt with weight issues all my life, so while I understand you must have something that works for now, maybe what you now have is also best for now).

A friend of mine broke his Cannondale aluminum frame in the early season last year from just riding on it (no crash). He's about 190 lbs, usually more like 210 at the beginning of the season. Had always been careful in choosing wheels etc. but the frame was not thought to be an issue. The bike shop guys were amazed.

The 'autopsy' revealed that too little of his seat post remained into the frame, leading to a lot of stress on a short surface when he was riding. (You should see him riding too... it's like he's fighting a wild beast. But he's an amazingly strong rider.) He got a longer seat post (and a new frame, which was covered by the guarantee).