components - I'm confused

[btchance]

I'm looking into getting a road bike to do some triathlons and longer road rides on instead of just my MTB. I've just started test riding some bikes (Fuji and Felt) and am going out tomorrow to hit a few other brands. My problem is that I need to keep the price down (I can go up some if I need to, but I'd prefer not). Right now I'm thinking about Shimano 105, but I've also looked at a few bikes with ultegra, which the LBS recommends if I can swing the price, while my penny-pinching side says to look at the Sora. My question is how much of a difference is there between these? About all I know is the order they go in, and that I haven't been happy with the shifting on my MTB, which has Acera as it always seems to need adjusting.

Do you ladies have any of your oh so useful knowlege to pass on about the differences here for me :D

[Eden]

I have only personal experience with 105 and Dura Ace, my husband has a good deal of Ultegra on his bikes.

105 is solid, works and is a good value for the performance, but it can be fiddley when you start getting high mileage on it. My derailleurs started getting hard to adjust after about a year and a half - but I put a lot of mileage on the bike - at least 4,000 miles, not counting all of the trainer time during the winter and the times I forgot to put on the computer or it wasn't working.
My new bike has Dura Ace on it - this was a big jump for me - WOW is all I can say, every thing about it is crisp and smooth smooth smooth. I especially like the brakes - they are much better than the 105's, which were a bit grabby for my tastes.
My husband says Ultegra is right in between, it feels more like 105 - solid though not so crisp, but is reliable like Dura Ace.

some of the differences can be subtle - like the jockey wheels on the 105 rear derailleurs have metal bearings and the ultegras have ceramic ones. My (105) jockey wheels were always getting squeaky because I was riding in the rain alot and no matter how well I dried everything it was hard to keep the grit and water from messing up those bearings.

[Fredwina]

With Sora , you get only 8 speeds on the rear. Sora also has different shifters , with the "downshift" levers on the inside(you use your thumbs) instead of behind the brake levers.
My main bike has a mix of 105(shifters, Brakes, and Front Derailleur) and Ultegra, but it's older 9speed stuff, I've got about 12,000 on her and she still shifts fine. I did replace the cables, though.
You may also want to look at Tiagra if you're on a budget. It's Shimano's group between Sora and 105. It's 9 speed.

[kiwi girl]

My (105) jockey wheels were always getting squeaky because I was riding in the rain alot and no matter how well I dried everything it was hard to keep the grit and water from messing up those bearings.

Maybe this is my problem. My rear derailer is 105 and my bike has developed an annoying squeak. I cleaned and lubed the chain a couple of times to no avail - at one stage I thought I had traced the squeak to the jockey wheel, but when lubing that didn't help I started to wonder.

Is there anything particular you do to clean them in this situation?

[Eden]

Maybe this is my problem. My rear derailer is 105 and my bike has developed an annoying squeak. I cleaned and lubed the chain a couple of times to no avail - at one stage I thought I had traced the squeak to the jockey wheel, but when lubing that didn't help I started to wonder.

Is there anything particular you do to clean them in this situation?

Mine were sounding like a little flock of birds chirping every time I shifted. Lubing helps for a little while - you have to take the jockey wheels completely off to clean and lube the bearing inside. We use something pretty heavy to lube them - Dumonde Tech Liquid Grease (my husband calls it smurf snot because its blue :rolleyes: ), but I eventually had to replace mine completely when winter was over. They had worn to the point that the hole was no longer round- it was oval! They aren't terribly expensive - about $15 US for a set of 2.

[bcipam]

I realize one of the price points on bikes are components but if you can swing it - get full Ultegra (at least). You will never have to upgrade if you do. It works well and is very reliable. Then when you have some money - buy good wheels and you are set!

Note new Ultegra is 10 speed. Talk about smooooooth shifting! It's pretty close to the Dura Ace 9 speed in performance.

[annie]

Don't go with Sora! :eek: :D Seriously, if you can afford better, you will want to do so. Tiagra is acceptable. 105 is VERY acceptable and dependable and may be the best compromise between cost and performance. Ultegra is awesome and Dura Ace is exceptional!!! MOST of us do not need Dura-Ace (tho' we may covet it.) When price is a factor, get the best you can possibly afford. 105 will hold up smoothly for many, many miles. I had 105 components for over 30,000 miles, without changing anything but the chain and brake pads. Finally got a new bike and moved up to Ultegra. Could I tell the difference? I have to say, yes. Was it a HUGE difference? No. Noticeable, yes, because I ride so much that I am very sensitive to my ride. I can only imagine what Dura-Ace would be like. (Insert drool smilie here.) Point being, we make compromises between what we desire and what we can afford. Good luck in your choices.

annie

[btchance]

Thanks for your help. I went and rode some more bikes today, and you're right, Sora is not what I want. The configuration of the shifters just did not get along with me and my small hands. I liked the Lemond Reno I rode, which was Tiagra, but the 49 is a little too big for me and looking on their website, I don't think they go any smaller. The Trek 1500 that I rode had 105 Ultregra, which was the same as the Fuji Finest 1.0 that I rode the other day. The Trek was a 47, the Fuji a 44. They were both a little out of my price range, but I think I can swing it. I'm going to go back and ride both again, for a little longer this time. I think the main reason why I'm preferring these is that they were actually small enough and I didn't feel stretched out on them (although the 44 might have been a tad bit small). Thanks!

[bcipam]

Not certain where you live, but alot of Trek stores here have a one year pay policy so you may be able to buy alittle more bike than expected. Worth looking into.

[bike4ever]

Lemond's WSD bikes (Reno & Versailles) come in the following sizes: 45cm, 49cm, & 53cm.

[Triskeliongirl]

Be careful, even 105 levers aren't made for small hands. Even if you went 105 see if you can get the special ultegra levers for small hands. If I were you and money were tight, I would consider going used to get full ultegra.

[Kathi]

Shimano levers do not feel comfortable for my small hands, period. They are too wide across the hoods. The only thing Shimano does for small hands is to use a shim to shorten the reach to the brake lever from the drop. Unfortunately, most companies are putting Shimano on their bikes.

I use Campy with Modolo Venus handlebars. The bars are designed to shorten the reach from the lever to the bar. They come as small as 34 cm.

The 3T Eva is another bar that is designed to shorten the reach.

[Quillfred]

FWIW my first bike after a long break was a WSD 1500 Trek. I looked long and hard and decided it was a great bike for the $ with a compatible mix of components (105 + Ultegra). I bought it end season for about 1K.

105s were recommended to me as well for the price/performance issue. Test lots of bikes before you decide.

[btchance]

I went back and rode the 47cm Trek 1500 today. It handled great, shifted fine. However, the levers were still too big for me. It didn't bother me as long as I was on the hoods, but once I went into the drops I could only reach with one finger, barely. The guy at the store said they could be adjusted some, but not by very much. The other issue I had was that I think it was still too big. Almost immediately the palms of my hands were sore (and I had gloves on), and after 5-10min my upper arms to elbows felt sore. I'm guessing this means that it's still too big. However, the next size down is a 43cm, which they think will be too small (I'm 5'2"), with the seat tube extended to its max. Of course, after going to all the bikes in this town, there is a total of 1 bike smaller than that, which was the 44 Fuji. I only rode it for a few minutes, but that one felt fine (although it was only the 2nd one I rode). I'm going out of town for Sun-Mon and called the bike stores there and found the 43cm Trek, 45cm Reno, and XS - XXXS in the Giants, so I guess I get to add test driving to my trip!

[veloputt]

Was the Trek 1500 fitted with Shimano, or Campagnolo? I'm 5'4" and Campy are way too big for me. I've been comfortable with Shimano, and the 105s are a bit smaller than the 600s--but rarely do I ever ride in the drops, mostly top of the bar or the hoods--if you do, consider aero bars instead?... so not sure if there's anything else to help you as there's just not much to be done about the distance between the bar and the lever... frame size is irrelevant. Though I thought I've seen a bar from Terry or someplace with a special bend in it to reduce the distance between the drop to the shifter. Good luck hunting!

[dachshund]

I don't know that the 43 will be too small. I'm just under 5'4 and I have a 44cm frame. I thought that was kind of small, but I don't bend at the waist really well, and anything larger made me feel stretched out.

But it sounds like you're on it! Ride lot of bikes.......