Coast to Coast: gearing and brakes

[Cyclesome]

I currently ride a 2007 Specialized Ruby Pro 50/34 compact double 12/27 with caliper brakes. I run out of gears when cycling the hills in PA and believe I would be better off switching out my gears for a triple or an 11/32 to cross the terrain of the US. Will a 11/32 give me the gears I need? Will I even be able to switch out my gearing? If I am able to switch out gearing, will it be cost effective to do so? What about disc brakes verses calipers? Please advise. My Coast to Coast is next March 2017 and I need the correct bike to start training. Thanks!!!!!!

[OakLeaf]

How much luggage will you be carrying? The more weight you're carrying, the more you'll want more gearing options, better brakes in the wet, and (what you didn't ask about) chuffier wheels. Which really adds up to a new bike if you're planning to ride self-contained.

If you'll be riding fully supported, then you could possibly get away with just a rear drivetrain swap. I'm pretty sure (but not positive) that with an '07, you'd need a mountain derailleur to accommodate anything bigger than 28T in the back. And if you stick with rim brakes, make sure you get pads that will stand up to mountain descents.

[Cyclesome]

The tour is 58 days and cycling with no luggage.

[Crankin]

I concur with Oak. My 2011 custom Guru compact has a mountain bike rear derailleur, with an 11-34, as there were no road derailleurs for this at that time. However, my 2015 Trek Silque has an 11-32 rear Ultegra road derailleur. I'd like to have a 34, but that is probably in my mind.

[wnyrider]

The tour is 58 days and cycling with no luggage.
You wouldn't by any chance be going with WomanTours would you?
I am signed up for their Southern Tier tour.

[Cyclesome]

I am and just received my packet in the mail yesterday. Thinking of purchasing a new bike as my current gears will not even sufficient for hills. Two bike mechanic at different bike shops believe it will be too expensive to switch out gearing especially if I need new wheels. Are you signed up as well?

[wnyrider]

Yes, I signed up for that tour back in Feb of 2015!
I have a 2011 Ruby with the same gearing as your 2007. I too looked into lowering the gearing and spent a lot of time reading through old threads on this forum. Found that a couple women had success using a sram 12-36t cassette with a new/different derailleur. New chain was added to their setups too. I don't remember the specifics right now. But, it can be done. I was going to go that route and even purchased a 12-36t cassette, but I noticed a nick in the carbon near my head tube. Bike shop checked it out and determined it was just surface damage. I continued to ride it, but won't risk riding it cross country.

[Cyclesome]

Wnyrider, Are you going to buy a new bike for the coast to coast? I love Specialized Rubys and the 2016 models are still doubles but have 11/32 instead of 12/27, better gearing for hills.

[rebeccaC]

Found that a couple women had success using a sram 12-36t cassette with a new/different derailleur. New chain was added to their setups too.

For 10-speed Shimano road groups you can substitute a 9-speed mountain rear derailleur. That will handle a 10 speed 11-32 or 11-34 cassette perfectly and even an 11-36 cassette with a little extra b-tension. I have a friend that uses 10 speed DuraAce shifters and compact crank with a 9 speed XT long cage derailleur and a 11-34 cassette in the santa monica mountains. You'll need a good mechanic to set it up.

cyclesome....yes an 11-32 will help....also, you have a year to improve your climbing ability, skills, breathing technique etc so think about that too. That ride sounds like a awesome bicycle adventure :)

[azfiddle]

I wouldn't know about touring and/or the route, but I recently replace my stolen Ruby (12-28) with a new Ruby with the 11-32. I got along fine in Tucson and on occasional hills up to 11-12% with the old bike and haven't truly needed the 32 yet. I don't know if that's helpful at all...

It sounds like a wonderful trip.

[rebeccaC]

I wouldn't know about touring and/or the route, but I recently replace my stolen Ruby (12-28) with a new Ruby with the 11-32. I got along fine in Tucson and on occasional hills up to 11-12% with the old bike and haven't truly needed the 32 yet. I don't know if that's helpful at all...

It sounds like a wonderful trip.

yeah but your legs are use to mt lemmon :)....beautiful new bike, glad things worked out so well!!!!!!!

[OakLeaf]

Just for reference, the Appalachian hills where the OP is from, there's no riding at all without a few 15% grades unless you hug the rivers (which are mostly very busy roads unless there's a MUP), and 20%+ isn't uncommon. Climbs are shorter than they are out west, but very steep. So it's more like high intensity intervals of three to ten minutes, repeated for eight hours at a time, than western steady-state climbing. Even in the shorter, somewhat less steep foothills where I'm from, swapping my 30x25 for a 30x27 made an enormous difference in how easily I could do those climbs all day long.

[Cyclesome]

Found a bike mechanic who is going to swap out my gears with either a shims no 105 11/32 or a mountain derailleur 11-36. Any advice as to which set up would be better?

[rebeccaC]

Found a bike mechanic who is going to swap out my gears with either a shims no 105 11/32 or a mountain derailleur 11-36. Any advice as to which set up would be better?

You'll notice the difference between 27 and 32 but i don't know the terrain you're riding. A mountian would give you the ability for 32 to 36. Useful if you find you want to go to 34+ later without changing a rear derailleur again.

[ny biker]

This is a very useful thread. My bike currently has SRAM Rival components, 50/34 compact double with an 11-28, 10 speed cassette. Last fall I found myself walking up a particularly steep climb (it was that or fall over with an asthma attack) as I watched my friend effortlessly spin up to the top with her mountain-bike gearing. That was when I decided my next cassette would be better for climbing. Given the rides I'm planning this year, I think it makes sense to keep what I have until it wears out. When that happens I will be wondering the same thing -- what cogs do I want on the new cassette. So this is giving me an idea of what to look for.

Thanks!

[rebeccaC]

N.Y. if you're into math Sheldon Brown, just google him, left us with a wealth of gearing/drivetrain info and calculators. It also helps in thinking more about easier drivetrain shifting selections, hill gearing etc.

[wnyrider]

Yes, Sheldon Brown does have great information. I also use this site for gear inches:

http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html?R0=36&R1=52&R2=NaN&C0=13&C1=14&C2=16&C3=18&C4=21&C5=24&C6=28&C7=32&C8=36&C9=42&C10=999&CAS=0&WI=9&CR=170&RT=1&ST=0&RPM=80&SRT=0&lRPM=60&hRMP=110&G=show&S=no&TITLE=Moose

It gives me a better visual of speeds that may correspond to the gears. Right now I may go with a 28-44 combination chainrings on the sram crank with a 11-36t cassette. That would give me a range of 21-104 gear inches. Not too bad. Still playing with the numbers right now.

Look up Wolf Tooth Tanpan and GoatLink. A couple options compatible with Shimano.

[north woods gal]

It will be cheaper to try a smaller chainring on the crank, but switching to an 11-32 cassette on the rear also works. Either way, you'll need to make sure your derailleurs can handle the wider range. If not, changing out derailleurs will get expensive in a hurry. Compacts and the derailleurs they use only have so much latitude as to what gear ranges they can handle. Be sure to check.

I much prefer disc brakes on all but my road bike (add a lot of weight), but it's not a simple conversion. The bike has to be pretty much be built around them, wheels and all. Will cost you an arm and leg to convert over, even if it is possible on your particular bike. If you really think you need disc brakes, you're better off buying a new bike. Then you can also get a triple if that's a concern. Nothing wrong with caliper brakes, though, as long as you keep them properly adjusted, keep your rims clean and replace pads as needed (and be careful when the rims get wet).

[ny biker]

This is a very useful thread. My bike currently has SRAM Rival components, 50/34 compact double with an 11-28, 10 speed cassette. Last fall I found myself walking up a particularly steep climb (it was that or fall over with an asthma attack) as I watched my friend effortlessly spin up to the top with her mountain-bike gearing. That was when I decided my next cassette would be better for climbing. Given the rides I'm planning this year, I think it makes sense to keep what I have until it wears out. When that happens I will be wondering the same thing -- what cogs do I want on the new cassette. So this is giving me an idea of what to look for.

Thanks!

<bump> Just picked up my bike from the LBS. They had done a rear derailleur adjustment recently to address some shifting problems, but I took it back because it was still not shifting right. (Also there were possible free hub issues, but they did the required maintenance on that and it appears ok.) They told me that several of the rear cogs are looking worn. So I told them that I'd been thinking about getting better climbing gears when it came time to replace the current cassette. I also wanted to look into a smaller large chain ring; I rarely use the one I have now because it tends to cause knee pain. And I want to replace as few things as possible, which means staying with SRAM components.

They recommended that I get a SRAM 11/32 10-speed cassette for easier climbing (contrasted with the 11/28 that I have now). This would necessitate a new rear derailleur, specifically a SRAM WiFli RD.

As near as I can tell from poking around online, the new cassette would have the following cogs: 11-12-13-15-17-19-22-25-28-32. The old one has 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28. So they're the same except the new cassette adds the 32 cog in place of the 14. The current cassette is a SRAM P-1070, and unless I'm missing something on the SRAM website, I think I'd be replacing it with another P-1070.

I am a bit confused regarding the new rear derailleur. At the LBS we talked about a "SRAM Climber's Kit in a Box," which includes the 11/32 cassette, WiFli rear derailleur and a chain. However I think this comes with a Force 22 WiFli derailleur, which is an 11-speed RD. I currently have a 10-speed drive train. I know that my rear wheel could handle 11-speed components, but if I'm understanding the SRAM website correctly the current shifters would have to be replaced if I went to 11 speeds. So I will need to talk to them further to make sure I'm getting the right derailleur to work with the new cassette as well as all the old components. Outside of 11 vs 10 speed issues, I have no complaints with the quality of the Rival components that came on my bike but am open to upgrading to Force as long as I'm replacing the derailleur.

So, I have something of a plan for the cassette and rear derailleur but still a few details to work out.

As for also getting a new front chain ring, I think I will wait on that, for budget purposes. We discussed replacing the current 54 chain ring with a 44, but they recommended also getting a front derailleur with a clutch (whatever that is) to prevent problems with the chain falling off. So we'll wait on that and spend that money another day.