View Full Version : Which Hawaiian island for our first visit to Hawaii?
GLC1968
05-06-2013, 11:22 AM
This will be our first real vacation (outside of local hiking/kayaking or trips to see my parents in FL) since our honeymoon, 10 years ago. :eek: We have the opportunity to go to Hawaii in mid-June for about a week.
Which island should we choose? I don't know that we'll want to do a bunch of island hopping, and as we've never been at all, I expect that which ever one we choose, there will be plenty to see and do. We like adventure and will not spend more than an hour or two actually relaxing by a pool or on the beach. We'd rather explore - tide pools, hiking trips, sea kayaking, snorkeling, etc. We are also not into nightlife or big cities and my H is not a fan of the Bed and Breakfast set up. Neither of us dive or surf, if that's a consideration.
Any suggestions?
indysteel
05-06-2013, 01:01 PM
We just returned from nine nights on the Big Island, and it fits the bill. Kauai was tempting to us, too, but the snorkeling there can be a bit iffier, and that was important to me. I'm so glad we were able to snorkel as much as we did. It was the highlight of the trip for me.
The Big Island IS big, and you sort of have to accept that you will not see/do everything you'd like. It's a really cool place. We spent our last morning sitting on a beach. Otherwise, we were in motion.
indysteel
05-06-2013, 01:17 PM
I'd add, GLC, that we did not stay in any hotels. We rented a house in the Puna district (northeast coast) through VRBO for five nights and a guest cottage of sorts on the Kona coast for four. We just like having a bit more room and the ability to make a few meals. It worked out well for us.
While we saw a lot of cool things on the east coast, the town of Hilo left us a little meh. The farmers market is great and we had some good sushi one night, the town overall is kind of worn. I'm glad we stayed just outside of it.
In some ways, I like that the east coast doesn't feel very touristy, but if you're looking for a vacation-y feel, you might not like it.
Veronica
05-06-2013, 01:52 PM
We've been to the Big Island 4 times since 2003 and Kauai once. The Big Island just seems to offer more of what we want in a trip - snorkeling, biking, hiking...
I'm trying to figure out when we can go back!
Veronica
TrekDianna
05-06-2013, 02:25 PM
I used to live in Hawaii. I would stay as far away as you can from Oahu. The big island has a lot of varied things to do and Kauai has gorgeous hiking!
thekarens
05-06-2013, 02:58 PM
I also lived in Hawaii and second what TrekDiana said. It's been many many years since I lived there, but even then I would have said avoid Oahu.
GLC1968
05-06-2013, 03:45 PM
Yeah, I'm not keen on Oahu.
Indy - I read your whole thread and immediately started considering the big island more seriously. Though Kauai is appealing to me too.
The big island has come up as our recommendation on a lot of our research but it is overwhelming. I really, really don't want to plan out a huge vacation even though I'm the planner in the family. I find the range of things to do and places to stay a bit overwhelming! Maybe I should find a travel agent? I've never used one, so I'm a bit hesitant.
And I'm torn really torn on the kind of lodging we want outside of it not being a B and B. A condo would be fine - my DH just doesn't like the feel of being a guest in someone's home if we don't know them.
Too many choices!!! At least the flights are easy. Hawaiian air from Portland is the cheapest, so we'll do that. Phew, one choice out of the way!
shootingstar
05-06-2013, 06:07 PM
Went to both Big Hawai'i Island and Kauai. I enjoyed both. Big Island offers a lot. Kauai has some stunning scenery, etc.
I actually don't mind if things look abit worn..it's ok if people live there and there is activity/commerce, etc. It's real.
I loved Hawai'i for what mainland U.S. is not: a very different (long) cultural and history base. We met people who had never visited mainland U.S. Probably either not interested or they couldn't afford it.
To appreciate Hawaii deeply in my opinion is to appreciate the South Pacific first and fusion of people/cultures there. It is most prominent there (yes, I know. But I come from Vancouver, Toronto where fusion happens, but it's quite different, um more bland..)
We went to Maui where on south shore in early January, the whales have their babies. Shortly thereafter are international outrigger boat races that draw upon competitors from South Pacific, etc. We missed the latter, which we didn't know until got there.
indysteel
05-06-2013, 06:08 PM
I had those same misgivings, GLC. And, in truth, I ended up doing less planning because I felt overwhelmed. It wasn't quite as intimidating once we were there. I think with a little prioritization, it's manageable. We traveled nearly 1000 miles on the island, but the hightlights for me were Volcanoes NP and snorkeling. The hikes to the green sand beach and Waipi'o were neat, but I could have skipped them w/o too much regret. The drives to and from were interesting. I liked the Botanical Gardens in Hilo, too. I wish we had ridden bikes on at least some part of the island. We just didn't feel like schlepping all of our bike gear.
But I'm not going to lie. At times, the breadth of the island and the logistics of it got to me. My husband can be maddening in this regard as he leaves most of that to me, although the fact that he did all the driving bears emphasizing. But I'm really glad we went and saw all that we saw. It's a place, I suspect, like no other. Where else can you (as we did) hike across a lava lake in the morning, snorkel in tidepools in the afternoon and then have Thai food in a town full of hippies? :)
tangentgirl
05-06-2013, 07:19 PM
Big Island <3. x1,000,000.
Kauai is beautiful too. Maui has it's charm.
Oahu has some real beauty too. Sure, stay out of Waikiki unless you like hookers and malls, but even there, the beach is wonderful. Well, the waves. If you surf, it's a long, gentle wave that you can ride forever and ever. And if you don't surf, you can see happy people, riding that long, gentle wave, and maybe for $10 or $20 you can get a lesson, try it yourself and fall in love. While you see Diamondhead to your right. And sunset in Kailua. And the North Shore, with its big waves (sometimes) and the yummy shrimp trucks (don't think just eat) and shave ice. Or hike to a waterfall or two (ask a local or google). And the drive over the mountains, alternating mist and sunlight, and looking out onto the basin on the east...all better than anything you'll find on the mainland. If you got a great deal on a place to stay on Oahu, then go there! And find the cool stuff, there's plenty. </defenseofoahu>
But, really, go to the Big Island.
Veronica
05-06-2013, 07:22 PM
AM - shot - early, early hike out to get this
http://tandemhearts.smugmug.com/Other/Favorites/i-5SnW58J/0/L/fav-26-L.jpg
Later that afternoon
http://tandemhearts.smugmug.com/Other/Favorites/i-8DjMK9k/0/L/fav-11-L.jpg
There is so much to see, it can be overwhelming... but you won't be bored! :D
Veronica
GLC1968
05-07-2013, 09:22 AM
But I'm not going to lie. At times, the breadth of the island and the logistics of it got to me. My husband can be maddening in this regard as he leaves most of that to me, although the fact that he did all the driving bears emphasizing. But I'm really glad we went and saw all that we saw. It's a place, I suspect, like no other. Where else can you (as we did) hike across a lava lake in the morning, snorkel in tidepools in the afternoon and then have Thai food in a town full of hippies? :)
OK, you just described me and my husband, so I suspect that your recommendations would be valid for us, too. ;-)
I'm not 100% sold on snorkeling. I've done it in Tahiti/Bora Bora and in Key West, so I don't know that it would be my first choice of activities on Hawaii. I'll have to check with my H on it though as his experience is significantly less. I'm also not sure how I feel about lava - though V's photo makes me reconsider!
And get this, Mr "I don't like B and B's so stop booking them for us" actually listed a B and B as his first choice of hotel type for Hawaii!! What is up with that?
Really, what we need to do it sit down and talk about our priorities together as I suspect that we may have different visions about what our Hawaiian vacation will look like. How much of what we do will need to be reserved in advance? Or can we wait until we get there and then just choose stuff as it strikes our fancy (which kind of freaks me out just thinking about it!!).
Veronica
05-07-2013, 09:44 AM
Well, now I have to tell you - this post got me thinking about going back to Kauai. We were there in Feb. and couldn't kayak the NaPali coast. Winter is the wrong time of year. We hiked some sections and flew over it in a helicopter and I definitely want to kayak it.
Veronica
indysteel
05-07-2013, 09:58 AM
OK, you just described me and my husband, so I suspect that your recommendations would be valid for us, too. ;-)
I'm not 100% sold on snorkeling. I've done it in Tahiti/Bora Bora and in Key West, so I don't know that it would be my first choice of activities on Hawaii. I'll have to check with my H on it though as his experience is significantly less. I'm also not sure how I feel about lava - though V's photo makes me reconsider!
And get this, Mr "I don't like B and B's so stop booking them for us" actually listed a B and B as his first choice of hotel type for Hawaii!! What is up with that?
Really, what we need to do it sit down and talk about our priorities together as I suspect that we may have different visions about what our Hawaiian vacation will look like. How much of what we do will need to be reserved in advance? Or can we wait until we get there and then just choose stuff as it strikes our fancy (which kind of freaks me out just thinking about it!!).
The only thing we reserved in advance were our accommodations. We reserved our space on the boat a few days in advance--once we were already on the island. June might be a busier time than late April/early May, so keep that in mind, however.
I don't know what snorkeling in Bora Bora/Tahiti is like, but Key West has nothing on the snorkeling off the Big Island. They just don't compare. But if it's an activity you just don't particularly enjoy, then take it off the list. We did see some kayakers off the coast in Kona if that helps.
But if hiking and kayaking are really your primary priorities, then I'd honestly still keep Kauai in mind. We did some cool hikes on the Big Island, but with the exception of the national park, I can't say they were a highlight for me. But it's also entirely possible that we missed some cool hikes, too. There were a couple we wanted to do north of Kona, but the parking situation made me apprehensive. The Big Island Revealed let me down in this regard. A couple of the places they mentioned as being prime targets for theft--Green Sand Beach and Waipi'o--struck me as far too crowded for that. The book described some hikes, with no mentions of theft--where theft struck me as a much more legitimate concern because your car might be the only one parked at the trailhead. We planned one hike north of Kona and the only place to park was covered in broken glass. We opted to go to Hapuna beach instead, and I was kind of bummed. I don't want to make it sound like the Big Island is a crime ridde place, but it was something we kept in mind when chosing what to do.
GLC1968
05-07-2013, 10:08 AM
See, I think we'd really enjoy the kayaking and hiking is one of the tops on my list of priorities. But again, I need to see what my DH has in mind. He may want to snorkel, see active volcanos and such. I wouldn't dislike that stuff, so I can be flexible.
Snorkeling in Tahiti/Bora Bora blows Key West out of the water, too. It was spectacular - like a mind-blowing, multi-color 3D painting that you could swim in! We saw sharks, touched an octopus, got bitten by a big gorgeous rainbow colored fish and were flat out in over-stimulation mode/awe the entire time. It was my first snorkeling experience and it's kind of ruined me for all other destinations. I'd like to do the Great Barrier Reef someday, but other than that, I've not been inspired.
I also snorkeled in Cabo, but that was only OK. Without a reef, there just wasn't the variety and concentration of sea life like there was in Bora Bora.
indysteel
05-07-2013, 10:23 AM
One other thing to emphasize: You're never guaranteed to see active lava flow. Right now, you can see it at the Jagger Museum overlook and by doing a 10-mile roundtrip hike from The End of Craters Road in the park. Outside the park, you can sometimes see active flow at the Kalapana Viewing Area in Puna, but you have no guarantee that Civil Defense will let you get close enough to actually see it. They have a hotline you can call for current reports/statuts. It's 808.961.8093. Of course, all this could change in an instant; you just never know.
Alas, we did not see active flow. We had plans to hike in the park one afternoon and then stay long enough to see the flow from the museum, but it was raining so hard as we passed by the park (after hiking to/from the Green Sand Beach at the southern tip of the island) that we just kept driving. We were spent as it was. Another reason to go back.....
indysteel
05-07-2013, 10:38 AM
See, I think we'd really enjoy the kayaking and hiking is one of the tops on my list of priorities. But again, I need to see what my DH has in mind. He may want to snorkel, see active volcanos and such. I wouldn't dislike that stuff, so I can be flexible.
Snorkeling in Tahiti/Bora Bora blows Key West out of the water, too. It was spectacular - like a mind-blowing, multi-color 3D painting that you could swim in! We saw sharks, touched an octopus, got bitten by a big gorgeous rainbow colored fish and were flat out in over-stimulation mode/awe the entire time. It was my first snorkeling experience and it's kind of ruined me for all other destinations. I'd like to do the Great Barrier Reef someday, but other than that, I've not been inspired.
I also snorkeled in Cabo, but that was only OK. Without a reef, there just wasn't the variety and concentration of sea life like there was in Bora Bora.
I can see where Bora Bora and Tahiti might ruin you when it comes to snorkeling. Sounds amazing (and now I want to go). I will say that the kayaking on Kauai excites me. I imagine it's just a matter of time before we head there.
If it helps, I'm not sure you can really go wrong in your choice. That was one bit of comfort I took in trying to decide on which island. I mean it's all pretty cool, right?
Veronica
05-07-2013, 11:28 AM
Just torment you - pictures from hiking on Kauai. :p
http://tandemhearts.smugmug.com/Other/Favorites/i-vKBTX8L/0/L/fav-20-L.jpg
http://tandemhearts.smugmug.com/Other/Favorites/i-C9HX7xr/0/L/fav-19-L.jpg
You can't go wrong either choice.
Veronica
GLC1968
05-07-2013, 12:14 PM
OMG - I need to go there!
Veronica
05-07-2013, 01:17 PM
Kauai - good snorkeling, hiking and kayaking. The helicopter tour is pretty cool too!
It didn't seem like a good place to road bike - part of why we keep going back to the Big Island.
Veronica
GLC1968
05-09-2013, 10:43 AM
We chose Kauai. :)
We are booking now, but it looks like we will use miles on Alaska to discount our flights and then use the savings to partially upgrade our lodgings. I *think* we will be saying in a BnB for most of our stay and possibly in a resort for a couple of nights (only if we can secure an ocean view).
I can't wait!!
indysteel
05-09-2013, 11:08 AM
Not that I've been there, but the more I thought about what you're interested in doing, the more I thought Kauai was the right choice (again, not that you could go wrong) for you. And, frankly, it's quickly moving up on my own to-do list. I so wish 2014 wasn't such an up-in-the-air year for me professionally; I'd love to start putting together our next big trip. We really want to do a self-guided walking tour in the UK with a few days in London tacked on. I've been to London; DH hasn't. After that, maybe Kauai. But I like to get way ahead of myself when it comes to vacation planning! :D
Have a great time, GLC. I'm really excited for you!!! Be sure to give a trip report when you return.
GLC1968
05-09-2013, 02:18 PM
I totally will!
I've already got a helicopter tour, a sea kayaking tour to the Na'pali cliffs and a zipline tour on my radar for events. All three actually scare me, so I think it'll be a great adventure! I also expect that we'll do lots of hiking and snorkeling on our own. And maybe even just rent kayaks and do a river tour on our own as well (if we can). So, so many things to do and see!
We went budget-friendly on the hotel but made sure it was in a good location (with an ocean view) and we used miles on Alaska to save money on the flight so that we can afford to do more stuff when we are actually on the island. I'm so freaking excited!!
jobob
05-09-2013, 06:30 PM
I would stay as far away as you can from Oahu.
It's been many many years since I lived there, but even then I would have said avoid Oahu.
LOL, the first thing that sprung to my mind when I read the original post was "Avoid Oahu like the plague!" :p :D Not that I've been on any other island in HI. :rolleyes: Maybe someday.
Meanwhile, I hope you have a fan-tabulous trip, GLC! :)
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