The best bike for... everything?

[Swan]

I'm looking into getting a new bike, but I don't even know through which type I should look. Most websites list bike types as being for this OR for that, and hybrid seems to come the closest... but I don't know if it could hold up against some of the rougher patches I often come across.

I bike for both short and long distances (from 2-20 miles), and on an equal variety of very hilly terrain.
This is what I encounter on a daily basis:

Paved roads
-pocked with craters
-smooth and new
-brick and tile
-loose gravel
-large, jagged gravel
-designated biking lanes

Wood-slat bridges

Off-road
-soft beach sand
-thick, slushy mud
-dirt roads
-forest paths (roots, rocks, sticks, and pits)
-biking trails
-grassy areas beside roads

Please keep in mind that I ride over all of this each day, and that the area is nothing but hills...

Speed isn't an issue for now, but I'm sure that one day (and probably soon) it will be. But is there a bike to accommodate all of these terrains? I'm usually on the pavement sections for about 2/3 of any given ride, but that other 1/3 can be a huge pain. I'm starting out on a Granite Peak Roadmaster right now and it just isn't cutting it... but I'm not too interested in an Entry Level bike, either, as I've heard I'll just grow out of it in a year anyway.

I'm pretty sure I'm looking at either a hybrid or a mountain bike, but if anyone can confirm one way or another which one I should focus on, I'd really appreciate it.

[Swan]

I'll look into all of the links, thanks!!

The only problem I can see is that in order to get onto pavement, I first have to go through dirt roads (which turn to slush in the rain). This isn't a problem if I drive, but when cycling it can be a problem. I live in rural country-side Florida, where at least 1/2 of all roads are paved with dirt... so you can maybe see my dilemma!

[indysteel]

What Muirenn said. I'd go with a cross bike like the Cross Check but for the sand and mud.

[Swan]

The area here is very rainy as we're just off the coast, but because of all the hills and road angles the water doesn't keep to the roads too much. I road through a light rain today, for instance, and wouldn't mind riding through a downpour so long as visibility was alright... but that probably wouldn't happen terribly often...

I will definitely call the closest few LBS to see if they have any in store I can ride :)

[tulip]

What kind of hills are we talking about? The reason I ask is that you mentioned hills and then you mentioned Florida. The two just don't go together in my mind, but I could be very wrong.

The Cross Check seems like an ideal bike at first glance, but if you really have true hills, you might need a triple chainring. If they are just Florida hills, however, you probably don't. In any case, the Cross Check doesn't come with a triple chainring off the rack, as far as I know.

There are other cyclocross bikes besides Surly, so just keep that in mind. Jamis, Redline, Bianchi to name a few. The main thing is that the bike fit you. I'm currently riding a 2003 Jamis Coda and I put 700x35 cyclocross tires on it and it works great in all kinds of conditions. It has a triple chainring, which I really appreciate since I live on top of a very steep (in my world) hill. I only wish it had drop bars, but that is cost prohibitive so I'm making do with flat bars at the moment. It's a great bike and I'm very pleased that I've resurrected it.

[Swan]

Hi, tulip! Thanks for your input. The part of Florida I'm in has both steep hills and "invisible" hills as the land hasn't been cleared or settled for city/town life yet... we're just a tiny village on a bunch of rolling hills with some steep cut-offs. I'm actually right by Falling Waters, which is famous for its sinkholes... and those sinkholes haven't stayed within park property lol

There are very few flat stretches aside from the highway (which is approximately ~18 miles from my house). I don't mind installing a triple if I need to, but I'll keep in mind the other sellers and models as well!

[zoom-zoom]

Ooh ooh...I wish this bike (http://www.redlinebicycles.com/bikes/cyclocross/2013-conquest-disc) had been around for 2011, when I got my Redline Conquest. I would kill for disc brakes on a CX bike (the low-rent cantilever brakes on my bike are nearly worthless). And if I could only have one bike, it would be CX.

[Swan]

Hello, zoom-zoom! Thanks for the bike recommendation. Is there anything in particular that would make the Redline Conquest stand out over the other bikes previously mentioned? I read into it but so far can't tell what makes one bike better than the next for my needs.

[zoom-zoom]

I love mine--it is so comfortable on so many types of terrain and so much fun to ride! I seem to recall in another thread that you're a hair shorter than I am (I'm just under 5'4"). It would probably be a good fit for you in the 44. Another one to consider is one of Ridley's CX bikes. They seem to really do a good job with small geometry--as small as a 41. A friend of mine is maybe 5'1" and has their X-Bow (I think that's the model). It fits her tiny self really well. I echo the recommendation for the Surly Cross-Check, too. That also comes in a pretty small size...I think a 42.

I personally recommend drop bars, too. I wouldn't like flat bars on anything other than a mountain bike (even then I need to have the Ergon flat grips, or else I get sore and numb hands). I definitely like having multiple hand positions available for variety. It keeps pressure from being concentrated on the same parts of your hands all the time.

[Swan]

Oh, I see! I've been having problems with my flat bars, so I'll definitely see about drop bars.

It seems like a call around to some bike shops about test rides is in order once I get a tad bit more research under my belt!

[Swan]

I don't suppose there's a type of bar that's a mix, eh? :S Flatbars and drop bars all in one....? Or maybe not? I'd thought I'd seen a picture, but I may be confused as to what I'm looking at. (You can tell I'm such a newb..!)

The problem I've been having with my flat bars is simply that my hands hurt with all the pressure placed on them... but as discussed in another thread, it might be because the stem (is that the right word? oh gosh) is simply too short and won't adjust, so I have to lean all of my weight onto them. The problem might just be me (and the bike), not the bars!

[zoom-zoom]

Ooh, are you wearing padded gloves? I can't ride comfortably without gloves with some gel padding in the palms. Plus they protect my hands when (notice I didn't say if, heh) I fall.

[Swan]

I don't have riding-specific gloves since we don't have a local bike store that is closer than an hour's drive away (and our Walmart doesn't carry riding-specific anything either, aside from helmets!), but I'm definitely looking to get some very soon. They seem to be able to make all the difference in the world if testimonials are anything to go by.

[Shellyrides]

I ride in alot of what you do. I love my old style hard tail MTB I bought used. I put a set of touring bars on it and some cross breed slick tires with a edge of nobbies. The poor bike is looking vary Fred and one of the nicest rides. You do not always need to buy new. recycling works out great!

The touring bars fit on with out a need to change out levers also. On the flat bars my hands where killing me, no longer!

[Catrin]

There are a lot of fit and posture issues that can cause painful hands. Number one is to find the right bike shop that will both help you find the right size bike to start with, then fit you to it perfectly.

Just to get an idea, what is your budget for this bike?

+100 on this. There are so many issues that can cause painful hands that it can take much longer, and perhaps cause unnecessary expenditures, to solve on your own. Changing something in one place effects other things and so forth. I learned the hard way that in the long-term, at least with my specific fit issues, it is far more better to work with an experienced bike fitter at the right bike shop from the get-go. There is certainly nothing wrong with experimenting on your current bike, just be aware that it may be more complicated.

Welcome to TE, and congratulations on getting out there and riding :)

[Swan]

I hear you all on the fitting. I've been calling around to (not so local...) bike shops this morning to ask about fittings, and I'm glad I called because the two closest to me don't offer them! Yikes! I'll hold off on the fitting until I decide which bike to bring home, though :)


Just to get an idea, what is your budget for this bike?
I'd like to put the cap on the bike itself at around $1,500 to allow wriggle room for added costs (like the fitting, a saddle, gear, and apparel) in an overall $3,000 budget. It might be a stingy sum in the cyclist world, but it suits me all right.

[BikeDutchess]

Another budget-friendly option to consider:
http://www.rei.com/product/807245/novara-safari-bike-2013

I have an older version of this bike and love it as an all-around bike. This newer version can be upgraded with disc brakes.

(Although I just realized the REI closest to you is in Georgia, which makes test riding a bit of a logistical challenge).

[Swan]

That's a generous budget. You should be able to get something nice. :)
Ah, well, I like to buy for keeps. I'll be putting the bike to a lot of use and hope it'll last a long time, but you often only get what you pay for!


...the REI closest to you is in Georgia...
That is a bit of a problem... Maybe the LBS will have one in stock that I can pedal around on. I'll add it to the list of bikes to consider. :D Thanks!

[zoom-zoom]

Ah, well, I like to buy for keeps. I'll be putting the bike to a lot of use and hope it'll last a long time, but you often only get what you pay for!

I think this is truer for bikes than for a lot of things. I mean, with cars you can spend $20k or you can spend $40k. A $40k is rarely really DOUBLE the car that a $20k car is--frequently you're paying for cache with a luxury brand, even though the cars may have nearly identical features. But with bikes...my CX bike was $1300 (IIRC). DH's originally retailed for $2600 (his new CX bike is literally the CX version of my road bike). His bike really is twice the bike. Mine is aluminum with low end components. His is carbon with higher-end components.

My mountain bike originally retailed for $700. I borrowed a friend's similar bike that retailed for closer to $2k new. OMG, what a difference. That thing practically pedals itself up hills, meanwhile my current mountain bike feels like it has a full keg of beer tied to the back (I wish it did, that way I could have some refreshments after those hard climbs!). :p

[Swan]

You can eventually swap out components as you need, though, right? Weight doesn't bother me too much since I'm not going for racing speed (right now I average about 5mph, but any faster than 10mph is scary to me) and I view the added weight as an added workout... ;) But the important parts like saddles, gears and brakes can be fitted in later if I'm not wrong? As long as a bike is very durable, long-lasting and can handle the type of rides I'll throw at it, that's all I could ever want.

[luvmyguys]

I hear you all on the fitting. I've been calling around to (not so local...) bike shops this morning to ask about fittings, and I'm glad I called because the two closest to me don't offer them! Yikes! I'll hold off on the fitting until I decide which bike to bring home, though :)



Some fitters will fit you to specific measurements ahead of time, giving you suggestions on which bikes will fit you best, and then you take those measurements into the LBS. Ideally, this is someone who is not affiliated with a bike shop, so you're just paying for the service, and the fitter doesn't also get a commission from what they're trying to sell you. Usually, included in the cost is a return visit once you have bought the bike to make all the right adjustments.

Might be something to think about!

[zoom-zoom]

You can eventually swap out components as you need, though, right? Weight doesn't bother me too much since I'm not going for racing speed (right now I average about 5mph, but any faster than 10mph is scary to me) and I view the added weight as an added workout... ;) But the important parts like saddles, gears and brakes can be fitted in later if I'm not wrong? As long as a bike is very durable, long-lasting and can handle the type of rides I'll throw at it, that's all I could ever want.

Yup. This is one reason I'm going with the Salsa El Mariachi 3 for my soon-to-arrive (I hope!) mountain bike, instead of the 2. The 2 costs about $500 more, IIRC. Only difference is the components. The frames are the same. So in time I can always upgrade as things wear out and the budget allows. Sometimes frames will differ, as is the case with lower-end carbon bike models and higher-end ones. Sometimes companies that use steel will use different grades. But a lot of times the only difference between, say, a $1000 aluminum bike and a $1500 one are the components. In the long run it's usually cheaper to buy the higher-equipped bike, but if money is an object up-front it's still smart to go with the bike that one can afford and replace things gradually. Kinda like buying a smaller home and building additions as one's ability to pay for these things improves (heh, or be like my hubby and I and live in a small old fixer-upper that never gets updated because we keep buying bikes. :p ).

[Swan]

Gosh... thank you ALL for your bike recs! :D I've printed out a sheet for each bike and compared them all and even did my research on reviews and such. While I'm not 100% entirely sure that I'll go out right now and buy a bike (impulsive urges to make purchases of 1,000+ should be monitored closely, heh), I know I'm definitely leaning towards the Crosscheck more than any other at the moment. I may yet change my mind, but as I'm still relatively new to biking and don't intend to get into serious events beyond seriously having fun, I think it might just be for me :)

I'll let you all know what I walk away from the LBS with when I finally break down and buy something!

[zoom-zoom]

I fell in love with CX bikes after riding my friend's Crosscheck. Such a nice bike and can go anywhere. Rides like a Cadillac!

[Owlie]

I like the Crosscheck. I'm also considering buying a Charge Filter. It's also steel, and the model I'm considering has disc brakes. The geometry is also a bit more me-friendly than the Crosscheck, but your mileage may vary. :)

[Owlie]

Interesting. I did decide that if I get a surly cross, I should get a 50 vice the 52 I tested. What about the geometry did you like on the Charge?

Hard to put into words, I guess, but it certainly felt better. Though it's hard to say, since the one I tried was an extra small, and it may be a bit too small (51.5 cm effective top tube--best road bike ETT for me is 52-53cm). In my size, though, the top tube on the Surly is a hair shorter. I'm right on the border, size-wise, though. I tried a Charge Juicer, which has the same top tube length (though it has a more traditional geometry) and it felt like it might have been a bit too long. I also like the somewhat sloped top tube on the Filter. It's more like my bike. I'm guessing I'll either be on the XS with a longer stem or the S with a shorter one.

The biggest plus for me, though, was the disc brakes. Only problem is that this thing weighs a ton.

[twin]

I think you should also consider a custom build on a Surly Karate Monkey which can be set up as a drop bar bike and built up like you would like. Another choice for handlebars might be Jones H bars.

[twin]

Another possibility might be a Surly disc LHT. I just started riding with disc brakes and they do a great job.