This bike shopping thing is hard :) Help?

[Possegal]

I've noted before that I crashed my bike in August and it isn't really cost effective to repair, given the damage and that it was an entry-level trek road bike from 2007. So I'm in the market, and I had prior to the crash been talking about upgrading my bike to something a little nicer and maybe even going carbon. I rented a carbon fibre bike for a tri I did, though unfortunately it was a bit too small. I liked some aspects of it but obviously can't fully state anything due to the size issue. I've test rode several, several times - Madone, Damone, Amira, SuperSix (though with the electronic shifting, which I don't want and that makes it hard to know for sure how I feel about the bike), and the R3. None of them are saying - I'm not your bike. None are saying - Don't bother looking any further. :) I'm finding myself frozen. Oh for the days before I found all of you, and I just walked in off the street and bought my first bike.

A worry for me is hills. I once was a demon on them, back when I rode as my primary transportation in the city of Pittsburgh. Now I'm older, fatter and more out of shape. Though I'm aiming to get that old cyclist back. But I'm worried about having a bike that won't break me on the hills before I'm able to get back there.

So, wise women of TE, is one of these bikes clearly better/worse for me, given my hill issue? I'm trying to learn from all of you, but I'm not there yet. I know I'm not the only one bike shopping so sorry for yet another thread about it, but I'm really having some issues pulling the trigger here, especially as I'm upgrading and this should be the bike I ride for some time to come. Thanks in advance.

Bike 1
Crank - Shimano Ultegra, 50/34 (compact)
Cassette - Shimano 105 11-28, 10 speed

Bike 2
Crank - Rotor 3DF BBright 110BCD 52/36
Cassette - Shimano 105 11-25T

Bike 3
Cassette - SRAM PG 1070 (12-25)

[indysteel]

Bike 1 is better than Bike 2 as far as climbing and quality/weight of the crank. But to compare Bike 3, we'll need to know more about the crank.

In making your comparisons, remember that the smaller the chainring, the easier the gear. But it's just the opposite with the cassette, in that the bigger the cog, the easier the gear. So, a 34 chainring is better for climbing than a 36 chainring. But ultimately, gearing is a function of both the chainring and the cassette, coupled together, so to compare apples to apples, you have to have both sets of numbers.

[Possegal]

Thanks Indy. I didn't see the info on the crank for bike 3, which seemed weird to me. But again, I'm so ill-informed on these things, I assume it is me reading things wrong. :) Bike three is the Cervelo R3. Actually so is bike 2, just different components. I like the feel of it, but given that I was test riding Bike 3 where there were no real hills, and then looking at the numbers and trying to remember what you all have said, I began to worry. So now I need to go back and try Bike 1.
Here is Bike 3 http://www.cervelo.com/en/bikes/r-series/r3.html


ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR You'd think I was buying a house, or picking a husband, or something. ;)

[indysteel]

Huh; that's weird that it's not specified. You might contact your local dealer and see if they can't hunt that information down for you. In any event, I wouldn't go with anything but a compact 50-34 and a fairly wide cassette if you're worried about climbing. That said, cassettes can be swapped out and, depending on how wide you want to go, you may not have to change out anything else other than the chain. Talk to your shop about how much wider you can go without having to worry about changing out your derailleur. I, personally, would prefer the 50-34 crank coupled with the 11-28 cassette.

What gearing did you have on your old bike?

[SFLiz]

Wheels also can make a significant difference in climbing. The Amira is supposed to have the advantage over the Ruby for climbing but when I tried to compare these two on some 14% incline hill repeats, I couldn't feel a substantial difference. I ended up getting a Ruby but I did have my lbs build some sweet wheels shortly after riding around with the wheelset it came with (which felt heavy), and I feel my new wheels have made a real difference in climbing for me. My climbing ability is markedly better with my new wheels.

As for the bike with digital shifting, you can get the same bike without it, can't you?

[emily_in_nc]

Bike #1 would be my choice if you're worried about climbing and don't want to have to change out the cassette. And if it fits and is in your budget, of course!

I had a carbon bike with a 34/50 compact crankset and 13-29 cog (Campy), and I could climb anything on it.

[TrekDianna]

So, wise women of TE, is one of these bikes clearly better/worse for me, given my hill issue? I'm trying to learn from all of you, but I'm not there yet. I know I'm not the only one bike shopping so sorry for yet another thread about it, but I'm really having some issues pulling the trigger here, especially as I'm upgrading and this should be the bike I ride for some time to come. Thanks in advance.

Bike 1
Crank - Shimano Ultegra, 50/34 (compact)
Cassette - Shimano 105 11-28, 10 speed

Bike 2
Crank - Rotor 3DF BBright 110BCD 52/36
Cassette - Shimano 105 11-25T

Bike 3
Cassette - SRAM PG 1070 (12-25)

Do what I did, get them all :)

[Possegal]

If only I could buy them all. :)

The bike I crashed was a triple (adding to my worries on the whole things). Crank Bontrager Sport 52/42/30 Cassette SRAM 850 12-26, 8 speed according to the bike archive online.

And yes, I can get the one with the electronic shifting with Ultegra, but it would be the 2013 so more money, and more time as they'd have to order it and I really can't tell if I like it without riding it. I'm sure if I wait a bit they'll get one in and I can try it. Because, yet again, I have a ride this weekend and I was hoping to pull the trigger, well last week, on the new bike. Twice I've rented bikes to do triathlons. This time I'm doing the Best Buddies Challenge fundraiser in DC. I'm thinking I need to go the rental route again (the Madone is avaliable in the correct size, so it owuld be a good test ride). I hate my indecisiveness, but I'm looking to spend a good penny so I want to be as sure as I can be. I hate my procrastination too. :) I need to get my act in gear, hahaha = gears. :)

Bikes 2 and 3 are at the same store so maybe I'll go again tomorrow and I'll talk to the guy about my worry and see what he thinks. Of course he'll think those are better than Bike 1 since it is at a different store. I seriously had no idea what I was getting into when I first started riding again. Who knew it was not unlike buying a car.

[SFLiz]

I seriously had no idea what I was getting into when I first started riding again. Who knew it was not unlike buying a car.

I felt similarly overwhelmed in deciding. In fact, I think car-buying decisions are much easier to make!

[indysteel]

Given your old bike's gearing, I think you'll be unhappy with anything less than a 11/12-28 in the rear and a 50-34 in the front. That's not to day that you can't swap out the cassette, but you should know that going in.

[Catrin]

I felt similarly overwhelmed in deciding. In fact, I think car-buying decisions are much easier to make!

Yep. Indeed, the time spent in my new Kia Soul purchase last year was MUCH shorter and far less agonizing than any of my bike purchases.

Good luck with whatever you decide. Is a triple an option on any of your choices? My thought is that if hills are a concern, and you are accustomed to a triple, why not stick with one if you can?

[Sky King]

gears and gear inches, the bike hermit put together a nice post on gears (http://biketouringnews.com/touring-bicycles/components-touring-bicycles/gearing-and-shifting/) (IMO) including gear charts from Sheldon Brown. Hope this helps