Heart Rate Monitors

[surgtech1956]

Can anyone recommend a simply heart rate monitor? Do I need a GPS to figure distance? Also, is it true that with Polar you have to send it to the company to have the battery replaced? I want to start jogging and since I'm after 50 using a HRM would be beneficial. Thanks for your help

[ny biker]

It's been a few years since I looked into it, but unless things have changed, you are supposed to send the unit to Polar when the battery needs to be replaced. If you do it yourself, you void the warranty.

However I never did that. When the battery died in my chest strap, I decided I didn't need to use a HRM anymore so I never had it replaced. And for the watch/cycle computer/HRM, I was able to find a watch repair place that replaced the battery for me. It's not a common battery size, so it was hard to find a place that carried them or would order one for me, and it wasn't cheap.

As for GPS, I would think the only way to measure distance while running is with a GPS or a pedometer, and the GPS is probably more accurate.

[Maye]

Yep, like NY Biker said, you have to send them the unit or the warranty is voided. That's why I have an F11 watch dead in one of my drawers for like 3 years now and also because I'm lazy!! Also Polar doesn't use the new +ANT technology, keep that in mind if you are planning to buy a HRM from them.

As for GPS's, yes, to calculate distance you will need one. If you have an iPhone or any android device you can install the RunKeeper or Wahoo apps to calculate the distance using the GPS already installed in the phone. You can select different type of workouts using these apps. I'm currently using the Wahoo HRM in conjunction with their app to jog and or bike and didn't have to spend money on a GPS.

[OakLeaf]

If you don't need to know your distance realtime, unless you run off-road on trails that aren't visible from the air, you can get your distance very accurately by mapping on mapmyride.com or ridewithgps.com. Bike paths are included since they use Google map architecture. If you're on trails that can be made out in the aerial photography, you can draw the paths yourself with reasonable accuracy.

[pll]

I measure the distance I run with Google maps. On the lower left corner of the map, there is an icon that look like a ruler. Click on it and you then use mouse clicks to map your route on the map. The distance will be tallied on theft side of the screen. Here is a screenshot:

[kajero]

I've had a Polar F11 for over 5 years. I've always had the battery replaced at Batteries Plus for around seven to eight dollars. The watch was dead and I didn't feel like sending it back to Polar. I figured if i was going to let it stay in drawer, I might was well have Batteries Plus replace the batteries. The guy at Batteries Plus said if he replaced th batteries. I would void the warranty. I really didn't care as I had the watch a long time and figured I'd gotten my use out of it anyway. He replaced the battery and the watch is still running. I think the warranty probably pertains to the waterproofing. Seeing as I don't wear it swimming (like I swim anyway) it didn't matter to me. I also replaced the battery in the chest strap with no problem.

I like the watch. It seems pretty accurate. I do find it a distraction when bike riding because I am always wanting to look at it, so most of the time it sits at home anyway.

I use it primarily when I got to LifeTime fitness to exercise.

[OakLeaf]

I measure the distance I run with Google maps. On the lower left corner of the map, there is an icon that look like a ruler. Click on it and you then use mouse clicks to map your route on the map. The distance will be tallied on theft side of the screen. Here is a screenshot:

First you have to click on "MapsLabs" and enable the tool. I got that far - but I didn't see where you select for it to lock to roads. Where's that?

[pll]

I simply click at the starting point (in my sample, H and 16th) then another click on the next turn (16th and K), another click K & 13th, etc

[OakLeaf]

That's weird. When I do that it just draws a straight line from one click to the next. There must be a control somewhere that I'm not seeing.

[pll]

That's how I do it, so if I need to do a loop, I just click until I get back to the starting point, one straight line at a time. Do you see the total distance on the left?

[OakLeaf]

I still don't see how you do it. When I click on a corner it just draws a straight line from wherever I clicked the last.

[ny biker]

I've had a Polar F11 for over 5 years. I've always had the battery replaced at Batteries Plus for around seven to eight dollars. The watch was dead and I didn't feel like sending it back to Polar. I figured if i was going to let it stay in drawer, I might was well have Batteries Plus replace the batteries. The guy at Batteries Plus said if he replaced th batteries. I would void the warranty. I really didn't care as I had the watch a long time and figured I'd gotten my use out of it anyway. He replaced the battery and the watch is still running. I think the warranty probably pertains to the waterproofing. Seeing as I don't wear it swimming (like I swim anyway) it didn't matter to me. I also replaced the battery in the chest strap with no problem.

I also think that the warranty issue is related to keeping it waterproof. Which I also did not care about, because I'm pretty sure my warranty was long expired by the time the battery died the first time.

[pll]

I still don't see how you do it. When I click on a corner it just draws a straight line from wherever I clicked the last.

Oh, I see the issue. Yep, it is a bit labor intensive: zoom in a little more and, if the road is curvy, you basically trace it with clicks, shorter straight lines.

[OakLeaf]

With either MapMyRide or ridewithgps, both of them have an option to lock to roads. You don't need a subscription to map, and you don't need a paid subscription to save or download (although there are still issues with the .gpx files from MMR, and they've taken the "classic," working site down :confused:).

[pll]

I see. I usually 'measure' my route and use it many times. And I did not know any better!

[Blueberry]

Take a look at the Garmin FR70. It's a non-gps model. I adore mine. User replaceable battery in the strap and watch (a 2032 - very common). You can pair it with a foot pod and, particularly if you calibrate it, it's very accurate. I actually have mine paired with a speed/cadence sensor too.

I have a 310XT, but I use the FR70 much more. The FR60 is a similar watch (same features), but the band on the 70 is much better. The 60 pinched my wrist in a very odd and not good way.

[Catrin]

With either MapMyRide or ridewithgps, both of them have an option to lock to roads. You don't need a subscription to map, and you don't need a paid subscription to save or download (although there are still issues with the .gpx files from MMR, and they've taken the "classic," working site down :confused:).

Ridewithgps will follow trails that exist on the maps if you choose the cycling option, which is nice. I prefer Ridewithgps for the greater speed in mapping over MapMyRide, the lack of ads for the free account, and just a more pleasing interface - at least to me.

I've had a paid membership for both (not at the same time) that allows you to print routes to PDF and MapMyRide, for now, has a far more robust and usable printed map but Ridewithgps is working to close that gap (I currently have a paid account with RWG but still have my free account at MMR so I can reference my older routes. I don't have a GPS unit with which I can download/upload files and I do not see that changing.

My HRM is the Polar FT60 and I like it quite a lot.

[Cynedra]

I use gmap-pedometer when my phone loses signal or battery strength to record how far I've walked. Maybe that could work for you.

[Dogmama]

After going through two Polars, I bought a Sigma many years ago. It's still working just fine. I use it for the gym. It is a basic HRM, gives you calories burned, etc., but no mapping.

I have a Garmin Forerunning 310XT that is several years old. I recently had to replace the chest strap - even a new battery didn't make it read correctly. I like this Garmin because it's easy to use.