Drop bar frame fit question

[laura*]

The last time I rode a drop bar bike was back when many bikes had 10 speed drivetrains. That's 10 speeds total combinations!

The bike I rode back then wasn't uncomfortable. However, I essentially never used the drops. About the only time I went into the drops was for fast descents and (standing) sprints. I keep reading of riders using the drops for extended distances. That simply wasn't an option for me - given the chance, I'd want to retreat to the top of the bars. I also didn't ride "on the hoods", though the old Dia-Compe levers weren't built for that to begin with.

I'm trying to analyze how I fit or didn't fit on that bike. I'm thinking that the handle bars were too far a reach, too low, or both. Would it be safe to say that the bike was too long, i.e. the top tube was too long? Back when that bike was bought for me, bikes didn't really come in a variety of geometries. It was simply: "You can stand over the top bar? You can contort yourself to reach the bars? Good, then this bike fits."

[OakLeaf]

Not enough information, and academic anyway if you no longer own the bike. If you're shopping for a bike now, test ride bikes that you have access to!

[Abarnes]

There have been a number of ergonomic improvements and considerations to road bikes in the past ten years. You should be able to ride comfortably in the drops and on the hoods.

Shorter top tubes, or 'Womens Design' on the frame allows a better fit for many. Short reach handlebars put the shifters more comfortably into your hands.

Threadless steerers allow bar height adjustment as well as stems with a rise angle. All of these things bring the bike and the controls to you, rather than you reaching for them.

Finding a bike shop willing to work with you, size you properly and allow test rides is a first step. Any number of brands will be good candidates.
:D

[laura*]

Not enough information, and academic anyway if you no longer own the bike. If you're shopping for a bike now, test ride bikes that you have access to!

I actually do still own the bike - but it is in pieces. The frame, fork, and seat binder bolt along with modern components are slowly being reassembled for indoor trainer use.

I can measure any and all of the original parts, but I can't test ride it.

Test riding new bikes is certainly a good idea. But it is easy to get tricked by a short test ride. "Way back when" I put a lot of miles on the old bike. I had a lot of time to establish habits and reactions to its fit. I have give those priority over any new test ride.


There have been a number of ergonomic improvements and considerations to road bikes in the past ten years. You should be able to ride comfortably in the drops and on the hoods.

Shorter top tubes, or 'Womens Design' on the frame allows a better fit for many. Short reach handlebars put the shifters more comfortably into your hands.

Some measurements from the old bike: Stem 80mm, handlebar reach 105mm, handlebar drop 135mm.

I looks like a bike today of this same frame size might have a 100mm stem, reach of 85mm, and drop of 145mm. Thus the "in the drops squeezing the brifters" position would be about the same (80+105 = 100+85); the "hanging onto the tips and sprinting" would be a bit more aero; but the "tops of the bars" position would be a much further reach.


Finding a bike shop willing to work with you, size you properly and allow test rides is a first step. Any number of brands will be good candidates.
:D

I'm considering a frame-up build. Right now I'm looking at frame geometries. I sort of wanted confirmation that anything with the old bike's geometry (mainly top tube length) won't work. An idea is getting a cheap frame, building up a bike with the components I want, tweaking the fit, and then finally getting a properly fitting frame. It's looking like nearly all readily available frames are identical to my old bike in the critical dimensions. That makes this a pointless exercise - I already know how it (didn't) fit.

I'll be ordering parts through the bike co-op where I volunteer. I really don't want to get a fitting and test rides from a shop where I won't be buying anything. That's like trying on shoes at a LBS and then ordering them online! I sort of have to figure this out out myself. And hey, anything I learn I can use to help fit people at the co-op.