Headset replacement: At home, or at co-op?

[laura*]

I need to replace the headset on a bike. I have the replacement headset here finally. I could do the repair before or after my work shift at the bike co-op. Or I could do it at home.

At the co-op:

I first have to get the bike to the co-op, but once there, I can work on it in a repair stand. The headset cup remover tool probably won't work on this particular headset. I'll have to improvise. The headset cup installer tool is broken and out of service. Once again, I'll have to improvise, perhaps by using a work stand next to a vice. The crown race also needs to be changed, but the shop has the necessary tools.

At home:

I simply need to roll the bike into the back yard. but I'll have to lay the bike on the ground to work on it. I'll have to improvise a cup remover, but I probably have better "drifts" than the co-op. I'll have to improvise a cup installer, but I can probably repurpose an automotive spring compressor for this task. I can't replace the crown race at home, thus I'll have to remove the fork and carry it to the co-op.

Which option should I choose?

[OakLeaf]

Rather than use a spring compressor or vice, use a threaded rod with a large washer on each end as your press. Tightening one nut (most conveniently the one on top) lets you keep the rod aligned in the head tube while gently and evenly pressing the race on.

I don't have any suggestions for removal. A friend and I replaced a headset at home once, but it's been :eek: almost 30 years ago and I really don't remember the details. We might have just used a hammer and screwdriver or chisel to remove the races...

Is the old headset so bad that you can't just ride the bike to the co-op one last time?

[Cataboo]

It sounds like you're improvising either way... So why bother going to the coop?

If usually use my trainer as a work stand, and if I need one for the frame itself, I just go out and clamp the bike on my hitch bike rack on my car.

I haven't taken off a headset, but the last time I was messing with transferring the crown race from one fork to another - I basically used a rubber mallet and a wood paint stick - the combination let me gently hammer it off. Putting on a crown race, you can use a piece of pvc tubing. Now, my gentle hammering still took longer than the 5 seconds it takes for the guy with the proper tools at the bike shop.

If you're taking the fork to the coop anyways to do the crown race removal, you might as well just go to do everything.

[laura*]

I decided to carry just the fork to the co-op today and work on the crown race. I wasn't quite ready yet to take the whole bike to the co-op. Working on the fork at least got the project started.


Rather than use a spring compressor or vice, use a threaded rod with a large washer on each end as your press.

That's what the spring compressor essentially is. Here's a picture:

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_736.jpg


Is the old headset so bad that you can't just ride the bike to the co-op one last time?

The bottom cartridge bearing has been tilting in and out of position. I felt it OK for really short trips, but was worried that it might blow apart and cause some real damage. I contemplated riding the shortest route (7 miles) to the co-op. Problem is that's a road I've deemed unsafe for bikes. Had I chosen this option, I would have ridden to the co-op at 4AM or so (I have keys to get in!).


So why bother going to the coop?

I needed to go anyway - because I'm staff and was on the calendar to work there today.


If usually use my trainer as a work stand, ...

Hmm, good idea ... oops, nix that. This bike has an internal gear hub (plus a cassette!) and thus can't mount into a trainer.


I haven't taken off a headset, but the last time I was messing with transferring the crown race from one fork to another - I basically used a rubber mallet and a wood paint stick - the combination let me gently hammer it off.

The co-op has one of these (Universal Crown Race Puller CRP-1):

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/d86c4379fe9f0b6f4674d5f261b02852a4f90261_430x390.jpg

There was no way to hammer the race off because the fork's crown is much wider than the race. Plus, the cheap race didn't have designed into it a way to get tools under it. Luckily the CRP-1 was able to remove it by gripping the sides of the race.

The co-op also has a tuning fork like tool to hammer races off (wouldn't have worked here) plus a bearing splitter style tool.


Putting on a crown race, you can use a piece of pvc tubing.

The co-op has this set (Crown Race Setting System CRS-1):

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/dea8d2b4d473469b697da6ec873abb110907dc91_430x390.jpg

It worked great!


If you're taking the fork to the coop anyways to do the crown race removal, you might as well just go to do everything.

These are the tools to remove and install headset cups:

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/6fe247df6e3bd0011d9d8d96953f2d0c06478ab7_430x390.jpg

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/864354b9346efb17b48d78baeb09fc6505290fe9_430x390.jpg

The co-op's remover has been through too many 1 inch headsets. I don't think I'd trust it in the really large diameter (44mm) headset cups on this bike.

The co-op's installer is plumb worn out and broken from too much use.

Tomorrow's at home project is to work on the headset cups...

[hirakukibou]

We replaced the headset on my Centurion using the instructions and homemade tools in Dave Moulton's blog. It worked great.

http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/2007/06/headset-removal-and-replacement.html