Road buzz and comfort while riding

[Roadtrip]

I've been mulling a few things here, namely a few upgrades to my bike for next season. My bike is still fairly "new" to me and a 08' Trek FX 7.3. I've only logged about 20 miles on her before winter weather set-in, making riding for a newbie more then desirable. In the short rides that we did I noticed I could feel quite a bit of road buzz... this was followed by research on materials, etc that might make riding a little more enjoyable, etc.

I am a larger rider so I was concerned with the lighter low-spoke wheels on the 7.5 and above that come with the carbon fork. I opted for the 7.3 as it already had 32 spoke wheels that I felt it could support me. Right now most of my riding is for fitness, so I think the FX is great for that, but I'm keeping my mind open toward a full roadie should biking aspirations take me down that route.

I could:

Buy new bike: One with carbon or steel fork... perhaps a new steel frame bike. Full carbon* bike is out of the budget.

* I did find a 06' Trek Pilot 5.0 OCLV 120 Carbon bike for around $800 with Ultegra/105 components, but I know not the first thing about road bikes or carbon and while it SEEMS the original owner took good care of her, I could buy and discover the frame is toast and out the $$$$. Not to mention road bikes are pretty aggressive and not sure I want to make that leap quite yet. I do notice a 06' Pilot with an option of a flat handlebar, so conceivably I wouldn't be stuck with the drops. Nervous about buying used carbon. This bike also comes with "light" wheels that I'm iffy about still. I've lost nearly thirty pounds, but still have a way to go.

Carbon Fork: Find out how much it would cost to have LBS install a carbon fork on my current ride.

Brakeset - Avid SD-3 w/Shimano EF50 levers
Stem - Bontrager Sport, 10 degree
Headset - Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
Front Derailleur Shimano C102
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore
Crank Shimano M341 48/38/28
Cassette SRAM PG830 11-30, 8 speed

Wait: DH has promised me we would look at an upgraded ride in the spring and I'd have a budget of about $1,250. Thing is, I'm seeing some good deals on used bikes, so I guess I'm being tempted by the deals. DH also pointed out that I had been running my tires at 100psi and that if I soften up at least the front tire I may see an improved ride. Waiting would also allow me more time on the bike and continue to tweak the ride to see if I even NEED a new bike

What should I do... just fix up my bike a little and continue to grow or make the leap?

Thanks,
Shannon

[hebe]

You are *so* going to end up on a road bike :D

I'd probably keep with the current bike, at least until the darkest bit of winter is done. My guess is that you'll lose stacks more weight over the next few months. I can't imagine that weight is as big a barrier to a new bike as you might fear. sorry, editing to say presumably the "light" wheels can be swapped out if necessary, but with my complete lack of experience I still think you might not need to.

What a lovely big budget though!

[indysteel]

What size tires are you currently running on the FX and what's their maximum tire pressure? Lowering tire pressure is the cheapest and easiest solution to making your bike a little more comfortable. So long as you don't lower them too much, that's where I'd start. What gloves are you using at the moment? If you aren't already using a padded glove, you might try them. Better grips might also help. I'm not expert on flat bar handlebars, but there are other ladies on TE that might have some suggestions in that department.

I'm hestitant to encourage you to spend any money on the FX to upgrade it, at least not until you've got more miles under you. After-market carbon forks aren't cheap, and the choices on the market are also not endless unfortunately. And in the end, you may not see the improvement you're hoping for. Carbon forks help, but there's only so much you can do with some aluminum bikes. There are also differences among carbon forks. I've used some that ride very nicely, while others have been very stiff and unforgiving.

I went very quicky from an FX to a road bike, so like Hebe, I wouldn't be surprised to see you end up on one yourself in fairly short order, but getting the right fit on a road bike is generally more complicated than it is on a hybrid, so I'd be careful in looking at used bikes at this point. You might be better off working with a good LBS in your area.

I think the general perspection is that road bikes are far more aggressive than hybrids. I don't actually find that to be all that true. It all depends on the road bike. Mine are set up to be fairly relaxed. I much prefer drop bars for the variety of hand positions they afford. That said, get some miles on your FX before you do anything radical or costly.

[Roadtrip]

I have these Bontrager Satellite Fusion GelFoam gloves:

http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/TrekBicycleProducts/10bo407203-407207?wid=389&hei=389&fit=fit,1&fmt=jpg&qlt=85,1&op_sharpen=1&resMode=bicub&op_usm=0,0,0,0&iccEmbed=0

And upgraded the stock grips to Ergon GC2 grips that I very much like:

http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/cdf716dd85d8_7D26/ergongripsview2_thumb.jpg

I've been debating the whole more used bike vs less bike, but new and fitted by LBS.

I did take a slight detour past the LBS yesterday and was asking about road bikes and stood over a 52cm Trek Lexa (very pretty teal blue-- new woman's specific line for 2011) just to see how initial feel was. Was too cold to take it outside so I just stood over. OK OK.. I was SCARED to acually mount the bike, but it WAS only 20-something degrees outside. LOL

The clearance between me and the top tube was only about a half inch (maybe an inch-- was wearing baggy jeans-- total impromptu stop.) I asked sheepishly, how much clearance is there SUPPOSED to be--to which he responded "this" much holding out his index and thumb-- saying you actually require very little clearance.

Shannon

[indysteel]

I have very little clearance on my road bike. Just enough to stand over it with my cycling shoes on. It's never been an issue. If I understand correctly, it a much bigger issue with mountain bikes.

[bcipam]

If you want a new road bike I won't stop you... but as to road "buzz" something as simple as trying wider tires can help.

I didn't see that mentioned in your post. If your tires are 21 or 23 try 25 or better yet 28 (especially if you are little larger or "fluffy" as I call myself). This would be the cheapest alternative and the simpliest too!

[indysteel]

If you want a new road bike I won't stop you... but as to road "buzz" something as simple as trying wider tires can help.

I didn't see that mentioned in your post. If your tires are 21 or 23 try 25 or better yet 28 (especially if you are little larger or "fluffy" as I call myself). This would be the cheapest alternative and the simpliest too!

I would have suggested this myself, but the FX line typically doesn't come standard with the skinniest of tires. I'd be surprised if it has less than 28 cc tires.

[bcipam]

Good gosh - checked out the bike - its a mountain style rig with 32's. Best to just ride it and when ready get a new bike.

Not casting disapagement but its not a really expensive bike so one should expect some "pings" or "buzz" now and again. The bike is really built for bike paths and sidewalks not pavement. That said, it doesn't matter the cost of the bike if it gets one where they need ot go and its gets the job done (fitness improvement etc).

Just need to accept the bike for what it is and get your ride's money worth out of it. I wouldn't put much into improvements.

[Roadtrip]

Not familiar with the bike. If it comes with 28's she can then try 32 or 36's but 28's should really help to take out road buzz. I could suggest then a better wheel but it would almost be best to buy a different bike...

It has 32's on it now.. so are you saying to down to a 28?

[LivetoRide]

Is the road buzz just getting to be too much on your hands? If so I'd just recommend some better gloves and/or to change the grips like roadtrip mentioned.

Since you're already running 32's I would keep it at that (going down to 28's will not help but rather make the road buzz greater). You can play with the PSI to see what works best for you; try doing 5 or so PSI less in front and see if you can see any difference.

It does sound like you'll end up on a road bike at some point but I too, would get some more miles on your current bike. I actually got a hybrid first when I first got into riding and then very shortly after I was stuck on wanting a road bike(!) although I had a bit more miles on my hybrid before I got my road bike.

You actually don't need much clearance over the top tube with road bikes but I do know some people that just prefer to have a little more clearance - it's all about what you're comfortable with. Remember that if you get into clipless pedals, you'll end up having a little bit more clearance anyways.

Also, as for road bikes always being agressive when compared to hybrids, that's not always true. Some road bikes are built with a more race inspired geometry while others are built more for endurance. The geometry will help determine the level of saddle to bar drop but by changing/flipping the stem or adding spacers will also allow you to get a more relaxed position on a bike that's built more aggressively-- and you can make a more relaxed road bike more aggressive by the same idea (flipping or changing the stem, removing spacers).

[tulip]

Ride the bike more and focus on your position on the bike. Are your elbows locked? That would cause some jarring. Relax your shoulders and arms, and keep your elbows slightly bent. They should act like shock absorbers. You may also want to consider devoting the winter to strengthening your core. That will help you support your body on the bike without having to put your weight on your arms.

[withm]

I've been mulling a few things here, namely a few upgrades to my bike for next season. My bike is still fairly "new" to me and a 08' Trek FX 7.3. I've only logged about 20 miles on her before winter weather set-in, making riding for a newbie more then desirable.

I'm confused. Are you saying you have you ridden 20 miles TOTAL or do you mean that you are you doing rides up to 20-miles long?

[Roadtrip]

I'm confused. Are you saying you have you ridden 20 miles TOTAL or do you mean that you are you doing rides up to 20-miles long?

I've only logged about 20 miles on this bike to this point. Got the used bike late fall. Longest ride was a 6 mile bone-jarring ride around the neighborhood which got me thinking.

Here's some things I'm taking from this thread...

Work on core strength this winter. Get more miles on this bike before trying to fix something that may not really need fixing. Concentrate on position when riding so I'm not riding "stiff" which undoubtedly is leading to my "feeling" more of the road. Try running tires just with a tad little less pressure.

Thanks all,
Shannon

[Cataboo]

the suggestions to let some air out of the tires are good.

You can do certain things to dampen the road buzz transmission on your bike - you might want to think about how much money you want to invest in parts on a bike that you're already planning on upgrading at some point.

There are buzz kill vibration dampeners that you can stick in the ends of the road bike handlebars - those aren't too expensive, I don't know if they fit into flat bars.

You can add carbon to the bike you have - a carbon seatpost will dampen some of the vibrations to the seat. YOu can put on a carbon stem or a set of carbon handlebars - these are things you could swap onto your next bike if the geometry is similar or you stick wtih flat bars.

You could also try switching to specialized zertz parts - specialized puts these inserts called zertz in their bike parts to try to dampen vibrations - you can get handlebars with that, and I think seatposts. Maybe stems. Ebay's a good place to buy pieces that people have swapped off their bikes and that should be relatively inexpensive.

[bcipam]

It has 32's on it now.. so are you saying to down to a 28?

No sorry I could not see the bike if photos were posted and I was not familiar with it... I assume it was a road style bike with thinner tires. The only thing you could do is go up to 36's but realize the wider the tire, the more "drag" ie friction on the road. It is harder to move wider tires than thin.

That said, 20 miles isn't very much at all. I say before you spend any more money just let alittle air out of tires and ride, ride, ride. Not certain where you pump the tires to but you shouldn't be running anymore than 60 - 80 psi.

I have a friend who had one flat after another. This was mountain biking mind you. She also had difficulty controling her bike. I agreed to fix one of her flats. In checking the air in her other tire I noticed it was pumped to 80 psi. Recommended for mountain biking, especially on California's sandy trails is 30 - 40 psi. She exclaimed but the tires says 80 psi! I showed her it says the maximum is 80 not the recommendation. For road/pavement use 80 psi is OK. Now be careful and don't drop the psi too low... especially for heavier riders. That might result in "pinch flats". I wouldn't go below 60.

If you don't already always ride with a spare tube and tools. Even if you can't change a flat, someone riding by can.

[Roadtrip]

Ahhhhh.. Tire pressure.. Another topic that has received lots of debate around here!! I know the 26x1.75" thick wheels on my cruiser has max 60psi, while the 700c x 32 tires max out at 120psi. I've heard that pinch flats can be caused by too low a pressure and heaved rider. With that said, dh reminded me that most of the rider weight is over the back tire, so I could run at say 80 on the front and 90 in the back and see how that feels.

Oh, and I don't expect a silky smooth ride out of a $600 bike, but to say it's not ment for the road is a little harsh, many people here use an fx as a daily commuter.

Shannon

[bcipam]

Ahhhhh.. Tire pressure.. Another topic that has received lots of debate around here!! I know the 26x1.75" thick wheels on my cruiser has max 60psi, while the 700c x 32 tires max out at 120psi. I've heard that pinch flats can be caused by too low a pressure and heaved rider. With that said, dh reminded me that most of the rider weight is over the back tire, so I could run at say 80 on the front and 90 in the back and see how that feels.

Oh, and I don't expect a silky smooth ride out of a $600 bike, but to say it's not ment for the road is a little harsh, many people here use an fx as a daily commuter.

Shannon

I can't imagine putting 120psi in a 32!!!! I ride on 28's and 25's and use 90 and 100 respectively. with 32's you should be no more than 80. Might explain your problem... remember that's a maximum tire pressure and should only be used in ideal conditions. You are right, too little pressure is also a problem so you need ot experiment with the right balance for you.