Hiking the Grand Canyon: Hindsight

[itself]

When you go to the Grand Canyon, and talk to people they have gone down and hiked it, you will always hear about those that did it in one day or even hiked rim to rim to rim. There are people that hike rim to rim EVERY year.

In hindsight, I wish we had done it differently. We started at 5am and finished at 5:15pm. We hiked at about 3.5 miles in every hour. No time for pictures, very few breaks. If you want to get out in sunlight, you have to keep moving. It's a standing joke at REI that the people who do it in a day are moving constantly and looking at the heels of someones shoes all day.

In hindsight, I would have preferred to hike down to Phantom Ranch, stayed over, taken our time, and then hiked out the next day.

So think about this as you do it. What is the big wooha about doing it in one day? I honestly don't know.

[Tri Girl]

I agree! We spent 4 days in the Canyon, and although we were loaded down with heavy packs, we had plenty of time to stop and take pictures, play in the creek, and relax. We met quite a few people running rim to rim or hiking rim to rim. You don't have to get a backcountry permit, but the pressure of moving through the Canyon so quickly just doesn't seem fun to me.

Next summer we are going to hit the much less traveled trails and do some serious backcountry hiking. I wish I could just live in the Canyon forever. SO beautiful and so magical. :D

And the next time after that we're going to do Phantom Ranch so all we have to bring is a change of clothes in a little daypack.;)


But that being said, I'm still very impressed with people who do a rim-to-rim!!!!

[spokewench]

It's mostly the challenge that gets most people to do Rim To Rim. And, also, there are a lot of ultra endurance athletes who live in this area who go into the Canyon many times a year and they do Rim to Rim for the workout more than they do it for the views.

Me, I like to enjoy the scenery along with the hike, but have been known to hike down and out in one day. But, that is not how I usually like to hike in the GC.

Spoke

[Irulan]

When you go to the Grand Canyon, and talk to people they have gone down and hiked it, you will always hear about those that did it in one day or even hiked rim to rim to rim. There are people that hike rim to rim EVERY year.

In hindsight, I wish we had done it differently. We started at 5am and finished at 5:15pm. We hiked at about 3.5 miles in every hour. No time for pictures, very few breaks. If you want to get out in sunlight, you have to keep moving. It's a standing joke at REI that the people who do it in a day are moving constantly and looking at the heels of someones shoes all day.

In hindsight, I would have preferred to hike down to Phantom Ranch, stayed over, taken our time, and then hiked out the next day.

So think about this as you do it. What is the big wooha about doing it in one day? I honestly don't know.

It seems to me that if you understand the mileage and the elevation gain, you would know that it's going to be an all day project? Or it is that you are annoyed that an all day project wasn't more fun?

Our permit for rafting the river is up next spring. We've been on the list for about 15 years. I can't wait!!

[emily_in_nc]

For us, we liked doing the rim to river and back in one day (down S. Kaibab and back up Bright Angel) because we aren't really campers, and it kept us from having to carry a lot more gear, which would have made for a less fun hike. We were able to carry mostly just water in our daypacks, and although it was hard, it wasn't crazy difficult since we'd trained well for it in the NC foothills and mountains. We also did it on a day that was not super crowded (May 1, 2006, before school is out for the year), so we only rarely had to look at anyone's heels. We started out at 7:00 am or so and were done before 5:30 pm (can't remember exactly, but it was still plenty light).

The beers and food tasted REALLY good at the top, too. :D

[itself]

I knew it would take all day, but I honestly did not think we would have to move at such a pace. I just thought we would have a wee bit more time..

[Pedal Wench]

Another fun day hike is just down S. Kaibab to the Tonto, then over to Bright Angel for the hike up. We did this in the winter when it was really slow-going at the top of each due to ice and then lower down, massive amounts of mud. Absolutely nobody on the Tonto, so that was nice.

[emily_in_nc]

I knew it would take all day, but I honestly did not think we would have to move at such a pace. I just thought we would have a wee bit more time..

Yes, 'tis true, we didn't dilly-dally much, but we still had time for LOTS of photos, and a few quick "sits". My DH isn't one for many or long rest stops (on rides or hikes!), tho, so it suited our style well.

[eofelis]

I did a 5 day trip this past June in the GC. It was my first time on the South Rim. I didn't pick the route and it was 10 miles down the Boucher Trail on the first day, a real grind! We saw no other people that day, how often does that happen in the GC? Then across the Tonto to Hermit Camp, then down to the river, back up to Hermit Camp, then up the Hermit Trail. Saw maybe a couple dozen other backpackers all week.

I just got on another friend's list to try to get a backcountry permit for next March. Her itinerary looks like easy: down to Indian Gardens (not sure which trail down, SK or BA), then to Phantom Ranch for 1 or two nights, then back up to Indian Gardens, then out. Sounds easy after the Boucher and Hermit Trails!

[Irulan]

I did a 5 day trip this past June in the GC. It was my first time on the South Rim. I didn't pick the route and it was 10 miles down the Boucher Trail on the first day, a real grind! We saw no other people that day, how often does that happen in the GC? Then across the Tonto to Hermit Camp, then down to the river, back up to Hermit Camp, then up the Hermit Trail. Saw maybe a couple dozen other backpackers all week.

I just got on another friend's list to try to get a backcountry permit for next March. Her itinerary looks like easy: down to Indian Gardens (not sure which trail down, SK or BA), then to Phantom Ranch for 1 or two nights, then back up to Indian Gardens, then out. Sounds easy after the Boucher and Hermit Trails!

So backpacking permits are by lottery also? What is the commercial use ratio for a backcountry (hiking/horseback) permit?

[bcipam]

So think about this as you do it. What is the big wooha about doing it in one day? I honestly don't know.


For a period of about 18 years, I did the hike very year (usually around my birthday in February). The first two times, when I was an avid runner, I ran down and walked up in one day. Would crippled me for a week but I did it for the challenge. The third year I hike down Kaibab, stayed in Phantom Ranch and the next day hiked up Bright Angel. The experience in Phantom Ranch turned it for me... I loved having the time t explore inside the Canyon and you meet the coolest people down there. After several years of that, I planned two days at Phanton Ranch. That was by favorite. The whole canyon area is so lovely... we were able the second day to hike out towards North Rim and enjoy the scenery. Twice I was fortunate enough to hike North Rim to South Rim. Involves a bit of planning but what an adventure. The first time we stayed on the north Rim 2 days and did some signtseeing. Third day hiked to Phanton Ranch. and then we Hiked out the 4th day to South Rim.

I tell people if you have never hiked the Canyon put it on the Bucket List. I can't even describe how wondrous the area is!!!!

[Pedal Wench]

I tell people if you have never hiked the Canyon put it on the Bucket List. I can't even describe how wondrous the area is!!!!

Amen

[Tri Girl]

OK- so we're going back to the Grand Canyon in mid-March. I have done nothing but think about it and dream about it since we spent 4 days hiking it in June.


And I'm ashamed to admit that I want to do a rim-to-river-to-rim one day hike while we're there. We didn't secure a backcountry permit (didn't know we'd be able to go until this month), and Phantom Ranch is probably out of the question (although I've tried a few times and will continue to call daily as the date approaches).
If we don't get reservations at the bottom, we're going to do the hike in one day. I know it will be tough. I know it will hurt. It will be March, so we won't have the heat of summer, and since I've been consistently doing leg and ab work for the last month (something I haven't done in years), I feel I'll be up to it.

I can't wait to see the Canyon again. It has altered my soul forever...

[Irulan]

Our permit for the river is up this summer. We've been on the wait list since 1995 or so. 18 day in our own boats! Can't wait.

[Crankin]

Tri Girl, you might be having snow and ice at the top in March.
Just a warning.

[Tri Girl]

Irulan- that's SOOOO exciting!!! Your own boats? 15 years on the wait list?? WOW!

Thanks, Crankin! I've been reading LOTS from people's journals who have hiked in March and have learned that will more than likely be the case. We have some crampons and yak trax (not sure which to take) and hiking poles to have at at the start and finish. Not sure how to dress yet, as I know we'll be cold at the start and will warm up once in the inner canyon. I'm thinking just a Goretex jacket and tights I can pull off then back on. Hmmm...
While I detest winter weather, I'm excited about the possibility of seeing the Canyon in a different light with different weather. I just hope we don't get too much snow/bad weather on the 15 hour drive out there... :)

[Crankin]

Embarrassed to say I have only seen the Canyon once. Three and a half months before I moved, I decided I'd better go... since who knew if I'd ever get back. We went over President's Day weekend. It was the dead of winter, but absolutely beautiful, a true winter wonderland. Unlike here, AZ closes roads to drivers when it snows and the roads are in rural areas. We barely made it out of the park and back to Flag before the road into the park was closed. It was only the second time my kids had seen snow. We have a priceless video of my older son slipping on ice and making a quick recovery, on the way to the overlook. We had to explain that you have to watch the ground and be careful when there is ice. He just had no conception of this, as a desert rat.
I'd bring the same clothes you'd bring for x country skiing or hiking in any winter climate. Just make sure you have removable top layers.
Several of the teachers I worked with used to hike the canyon every spring break. I always was asked to come, as they knew I was a fitness instructor, worked out. But, back then, any outdoor endeavor scared the crap out of me. I seriously thought they would have to call that rescue helicopter for me. I *should* have just trained and done it, because now, I would love to.

[Irulan]

Irulan- that's SOOOO exciting!!! Your own boats? 15 years on the wait list?? WOW!


Here's the deal. If you have $5000 in your pocket you could go with an outfitter tomorrow. If you are a person with your own raft, you go into a lottery draw for a permit. 20% or so of launches are allotted to private boaters, the remaining are allotted to outfitters. Thank you Senator Hatch (owner of Hatch Expeditions) and the outfitter lobby in Utah. These are OUR national parks that we have the right to use as taxpaying public. By private boater, I mean anyone that owns their own equipment and wants to do the trip without an outfitter. Private boaters share all costs, and do not hire guides to run the trips for them.

The wait list was up to 22 years for a permit, and finally the Grand Canyon Private Boaters Association was successful in their suits against the National Park Service ( and the outfitter lobby) to get more launches for private boaters. What this means is that there is a lottery now, and there are more launches for private boaters by shortening up the days you are allowed on the river, not by increasing the allotment. When the suit was completed, we were given the option to combine our permit with other folks to move us up the list. So, instead of a permit that belongs to us for 16 people, we are sharing the permit with two other permit holders, each us gets to bring 5 people except we get to bring 6 as the main organizer. Great system huh?

I may not have my numbers exactly correct, but I've got the concept right.
More info here if anyone cares.
http://www.kwagunt.net/gctrips.html

[emily_in_nc]

If we don't get reservations at the bottom, we're going to do the hike in one day. I know it will be tough. I know it will hurt. It will be March, so we won't have the heat of summer, and since I've been consistently doing leg and ab work for the last month (something I haven't done in years), I feel I'll be up to it.

My DH and I did this in 2006 (age 45 for me, age 52 for him). It's very doable if you've trained. Read about our hike here:

http://travelingtwosome.weebly.com/sw-parks-page-4.html

[eofelis]

I did a 5 day trip this past June in the GC. It was my first time on the South Rim. I didn't pick the route and it was 10 miles down the Boucher Trail on the first day, a real grind! We saw no other people that day, how often does that happen in the GC? Then across the Tonto to Hermit Camp, then down to the river, back up to Hermit Camp, then up the Hermit Trail. Saw maybe a couple dozen other backpackers all week.

I just got on another friend's list to try to get a backcountry permit for next March. Her itinerary looks like easy: down to Indian Gardens (not sure which trail down, SK or BA), then to Phantom Ranch for 1 or two nights, then back up to Indian Gardens, then out. Sounds easy after the Boucher and Hermit Trails!

Our plans are coming together for our mid-March trip into the GC. Down BA trail 4.5 miles to Indian Gardens, then 2 nights at the PR, another night at IG, then out on the BA trail. It looks like an easy going trip with lots of time to look around. There are 6 of us.

My bf is going along. He had a bike accident last summer (grade 3 concussion) and still feels like he is recovering from it. He has a few days of activity and then is dead tired a for a few days, but he has been getting better. We have been out hiking, getting ready. Starting to think out what to pack. The weather could be variable in March.

We are both geologists, so we love rocks! We are also familiar with recent work on theories of how the canyon was formed and how old it might be.

[bcipam]

I did the Canyon in one day (ran Bright Angel down and walked back up) and never again.

The best experiecne is getting down to Phantom Ranch... taken a shower and then exploring and meeting up and engaging with other hikers who come from all over the world! It's so cool! The dinner and breakfast at the Ranch is also fantastic! We normally go down Kaibab and return up Bright Angel. Someday we were reverse the route but for some reason what we have been doing makes sense.

My favorite trip took several days... we hiked down Kaibab, stayed at Phantom hiked out to the North Rim stayed at the grand Canyon Lodge, hiked back down to Phantom and then finished out on Bright Angel. I was really tired but it was a trip of a lifetime!

[bcipam]

super secret about the Grand Canyon and phantom Ranch - if you are a small party and don't mind lodging in the dorms you can walk up the day of your hike and generally get in. It's worth taking the chance otherwise waiting list is 1 - 2 years...

Also we usually do the trip in February and March - yes lots of ice and you may get snow, or rain... buy some cheap shoe spikes and keep them in your pack. They are like mini-crampons. With the spikes ice is no problem.

[Pedal Wench]

Someday we were reverse the route but for some reason what we have been doing makes sense.

My favorite trip took several days... we hiked down Kaibab, stayed at Phantom hiked out to the North Rim stayed at the grand Canyon Lodge, hiked back down to Phantom and then finished out on Bright Angel. I was really tired but it was a trip of a lifetime!

It's hard to go up S. Kaibab because of the lack of water. We did it one year because it was unseasonably cool and overcast, plus we had cached water on the way down. :)
One year, we lucked out with a computer glitch. Just as my BF got through to try to book a bed and dinners, all the other computers locked up and he got his pick of the place. You haven't lived until you've stayed in a private cabin at Phantom Ranch. We did a rim-to-rim-to-rim staying in a private cabin both ways - deluxe!!!

[Tri Girl]

super secret about the Grand Canyon and phantom Ranch - if you are a small party and don't mind lodging in the dorms you can walk up the day of your hike and generally get in.

Where do you walk up to? Do you hike down to the bottom and just hope to get in? I've been calling daily to see if there are any cancellations, but no luck yet. It's only DH and I and we only want to stay for one night (ideally two, but one would be fine).
I thought I heard that you can ask at the desk at Bright Angel Lodge and see if they have dorm space available.
Our other option is waiting at the Backcountry Info office to see if there was space/cancellation at either Indian Garden or BA campground.

We'll be there the week of March 13th.

[Irulan]

.

We are both geologists, so we love rocks! We are also familiar with recent work on theories of how the canyon was formed and how old it might be.

Isthere something new?

[bcipam]

It's hard to go up S. Kaibab because of the lack of water. We did it one year because it was unseasonably cool and overcast, plus we had cached water on the way down. :)
One year, we lucked out with a computer glitch. Just as my BF got through to try to book a bed and dinners, all the other computers locked up and he got his pick of the place. You haven't lived until you've stayed in a private cabin at Phantom Ranch. We did a rim-to-rim-to-rim staying in a private cabin both ways - deluxe!!!

Thus the reason we hike in February and March. Don't need to carry all that much water. A Camelbak 100 oz is plenty. There are alot of good reasons ot hike in Feb/MArch. Although cold on top as you aproach the bottom it is usually a balmy 60 - 70 degrees - very pleasant. Plus less traffic; Plus easier to get reservations or spaces....

We always stay in the cabins (although I have stayed in the dorms) - either 4 men or 10 men depending ont he group. Add the meals prepared by the Staff at Phantom Ranch - Resort Living!

[Tri Girl]

We just got back from the Canyon yesterday. We were lucky to get a spot in the dorms for one night at Phantom, so we hiked down S.Kaibab and back up B.A. I wish we'd gone up S.Kaibab because the extra miles of B.A. and all the extra crowds of people with no trail etiquette was terrible! I thought I was going to get in a fist fight with some downhill hikers who were taking up the whole trail as I was coming up- and I wasn't budging. I think I might have shoulder-checked a couple over the edge, but I'm not sure since I was in a daze of exhaustion. ;)
I think that while the S.K. is steeper, it's also shorter and would have been a better option to ascend out of. Less crowded, shorter, and only an avg. of 3% steeper than B.A. Next time I know. ;)

The temps on the rim and in the inner canyon were very pleasant. It was a very nice week- we lucked out! While there was still snow in patches on the North facing walls of the Canyon, it wasn't too cold at the top. We did have to camp out one night (went to the National Forest and found a spot for free) and the temps were in the high 20's and although we were toasty in our sleeping bags, there was a layer of ice on the underside of the rainfly when we woke up. :eek:

After having done both rims, I can safely say that I much prefer the N. Rim because there are so many less people and no tour buses to clog up the rim and trails. They both hold their own unique beauty, but I don't like people so much, so the further away I can be from the massive crowds- the better and more I enjoy it all.

The pictures:
1. on the way down S.K.
2. me at Skeleton Point- before those crazy switchbacks down to the Tonto
3. Black Bridge
4. the hubs on the very sandy B.A. paralleling the Mighty Colorado
5. view of the rim from Indian Garden

[emily_in_nc]

Trigirl,

Thanks for posting about your hike and congrats! It took me back! We did the same hike but in one day, did not stay at the canyon bottom. Perhaps because of this, we didn't encounter as many crowds going up Bright Angel as you did, since it was so late in the day when we we got to the top 2 miles, which is where all the people were. There were definitely a few, but I'm sure it had thinned out a lot, as it was getting near 5-6pm, as I recall. So that worked out pretty well. I think doing it the other way would be smart, tho. I guess we didn't do that since I was worried about the steeper profile of S. Kaibab being tougher going up and being very tired since we were doing the hike in one day. Over more than one day, tho, I think that would be the way to go!

[Tri Girl]

I would truly like to do a rim-to-river and back in one day. I'm incredibly impressed by your adventure!!!
I would have to seriously train for it (like I train for an Ironman, tho). I don't know what would be better: getting all the soreness over in one day, or letting it fester overnight and then starting back up the next day??? :) Rim-to-river and back is the next hike in the canyon. Or even better- a rim-to-rim from the N to the S rims. That sounds even more fun!
We encountered about a half dozen canyon runners on the trail heading up- spaced out over lots of miles. I was duly impressed. I can't imagine running down those trails: so rocky and ankle-breaky- especially since I know a lot of them left the rim before daylight broke and there was ice the first half mile of the trail coming down. WOW! :eek:

[eofelis]

Tri girl some of your pictures look very familiar! I was just in the GC last week. I did my 5 day backpack trip with 4 other ladies. I wonder if we passed by each other out there somewhere.


On Monday we went down the BA trail to camp at Indian Gardens, 4.5 miles. Then a day hike out to Plateau Pt (3 mi). Saw a little rattlesnake out at PP.
On Tues we hopped on the Tonto Trail east to Tipoff on the SK trail and down to Phantom Ranch, 7 miles. Saw a condor sitting on a rock stretching it's wings in Pipe Canyon.
On Weds it was a day off at the PR/BA campground. I walked around a lot, maybe 3 miles total. My legs were a bit too sore to just sit around.
Thurs we hiked up the BA trail to IG. Went out to PP again that afternoon. 8 miles total. Saw 2 condors sitting on a rock at PP.
Fri we hiked out the BA, 4.5 miles. My guess for the time it would take us to get out was 4.75 hrs. It took us 4.5 hrs. I won a Pepsi for having the closest guess in our group.

Good times.

[emily_in_nc]

I would truly like to do a rim-to-river and back in one day. I'm incredibly impressed by your adventure!!!
I would have to seriously train for it (like I train for an Ironman, tho). I don't know what would be better: getting all the soreness over in one day, or letting it fester overnight and then starting back up the next day??? :)

Thanks, Tri Girl. I am sure the rim-to-rim was much less strenuous than an Ironman (it was longer but no more difficult than a century bike ride to me, and I simply can't imagine adding a marathon on top of that!!) But we did train quite a bit -- we went to different parks every weekend to hike, eventually working up to a few parks in the NC mountains. The biggest hike we did was very similar to the GC hike as it was from the top of Mt. Mitchell to the base, then back up. 16 miles total, and like the GC, it was cold at the top and hot at the base.

I honestly don't remember being that sore afterwards, but we did get blisters. That was probably the most difficult thing to deal with after the fact, since we still had many more hikes ahead of us as we went on to Canyonlands, Arches, Bryce, and Zion Nat'l parks!