Should I patch the tube only before I'm going to use it?

[wildeny]

My question is on the title. ;) "Should I patch the tube only before I'm going to use it?"

The long story is here:
I patched two tubes* at the same time. Then installed one of them and kept the other. One week later, I offered this patched tube to be used in a new wheel. The bike mechanic said that this cannot be used; or I might have problem of leakage.

I consulted the instructions in the books, including Zinn's, & the video in BicycleTutor.com, but I didn't find that kind of suggestion. If that's true, why don't they mention it? :confused:


* I didn't get out the culprit from the tire after the first flat, so ... :(

[OakLeaf]

Never been an issue for me. Sounds like they just want to sell you a new tube... Otherwise the ONLY time you'd be patching tubes is out on the road - which is sometimes necessary, but really the last place you want to do that.

My only question is: how many patches in a tube before it's so heavy or unbalanced you decide you need a new one? :p

[lph]

sounds to me like the mechanic just wanted to give the wheel his "best start", by using a new tube. Patched tubes probably are a little more inclined to leak, given that they're older and more worn. I'll patch tubes 3 or 4 times before tossing them.

[tzvia]

It depends on the patch. Those clear/whitish glueless patches are worthless IMO. Yea they will work if you get a flat and need to patch it and use it right away, but if you store it as a spare, the patch will bubble and leak if you pump it up several months later. If the tire sits for a while and the tube deflates some the patch may bubble and leak when you pump it back up. This has been my experience with the Park patch. Worthless.

I only use the black rubber patches with glue. Those are as strong as the tube itself if applied correctly and I have no problem using a patched tube as a spare or as a regular tube. Right now the front tire in my road bike has such a patch and I don't give it a second thought. I would look at the overall tube and the location of the patches (3 or 4 in the same area I would think would be a balance issue??) and make a decision from there but I would guess that maybe after 3 I would toss it. I just don't get enough flats (3 total in 1 1/2 years, and two of them were re-flats due to those glueless patches.)

[malkin]

I usually put them off until there are several that need patching, and then on a nice day, when there's other garage work going on, I do several patches at once.

*shrug*
No particular problems with this system.

[wildeny]

Thanks for sharing your experiences.

I think I didn't patched the tube well (I used the one with rubber cement), because later I could tear it off the tube. :p Maybe that's the reason why the mechanic preferred a new tube. :rolleyes:

I looked up in the internet for the information and found this article, "How to patch an inner tube the right way (http://tenerife-training.net/Tenerife-News-Cycling-Blog/2008/05/learning-curve/how-to-patch-an-inner-tube-the-right-way/)". :)

[PscyclePath]

You can patch tubes until you're placing patches over the old patches, if you're patient and frugal enough ;-) However, the big seam splits and damage at the valve stem almost always mean that you finally need a new tube.

The "quick" or glueless patches (essentially the lick 'em & stick 'em kind) don't bond to the tubeand depend a lot on the pressure of the inflated tube on the tire in order to hold a seal. I don't recommend theseif you're going to patch the tube and put it aside for use as a spare.

Vulcanizing patches (the black & orange kind that use glue) actually bond to the tube, and the bond works better if you give it 12 to 24 hours for the glue to set up. These work well if you put in a new tube when you fix the flat, then patch the old tube and let it sit overnight.