Average Gal's First Time At Bat

[Biking Bella]

Good Morning!

As many others in this forum section have voiced, "help! I'm new!" - I would like to echo the same chord.

For years back in junior high and high school (I'm 26 now), I used my mountain bike to get myself some fun, exciting exercise around my little town and into the neighboring mountain scape. After two moves, I have let go of my mountain bike and want to get into road biking. I live in the Seattle-metro area now and seeing the bike lanes and trails has me itchy to get back into the swing of cycling!

With every new endeavor, there is a learning curve, which is why I'm coming to you gals for some help! I've been starting my online research and I'm finding that simply typing in "best women's road bikes" won't make it. Haha. As I've been reading on these forums, there is little that can replace a simple stop to your local biking stores to get a glimpse and measured up on what to look for. Aside from this wonderful advice, what other nuggets of wisdom or terminology, etc would you be able to offer me in this time of informational infancy?

As a bit of a side note, I'm 5'6 with average/long legs (as per the jeans I buy!), 110 lbs, with a healthy diet.

Again, many thanks in advance for all the help, consider me a cycling sponge!

[lph]

Ride Lots :D

Don't skimp on your saddle or your bike shorts, or on being seen in traffic.

Ask lots of questions here as they arise.

And welcome!

[Biking Bella]

Thanks! Appreciate the heads up on keeping my bum safe. Good thought!

The thing I'm concerned about is going to a bike shop and being "oversold" for what I need or not knowing the importance to some terms. Should I be wary of this?

[Cataboo]

Thanks! Appreciate the heads up on keeping my bum safe. Good thought!

The thing I'm concerned about is going to a bike shop and being "oversold" for what I need or not knowing the importance to some terms. Should I be wary of this?

Well... it sounds like you do need a women's specific design given your leg length.

Now you should tell us your price range, and we'll tell you what you should expect to get in that price range component wise. And one of us will suggest that you look on craigslist at used bikes once you get an idea of what fits you so you can maximize what you can afford...

And you should tell us what you want to do - commute, tour, race, or just ride.

If I were getting a road bike - I'd want at least an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork and seat stays... Aluminum is harsh on bumps, the carbon fiber fork & seatstays'll help with that. I'd want at least shimano 105 level components, but people do use tiagra & sora without any issues...

[Biking Bella]

Well... it sounds like you do need a women's specific design given your leg length.

Now you should tell us your price range, and we'll tell you what you should expect to get in that price range component wise. And one of us will suggest that you look on craigslist at used bikes once you get an idea of what fits you so you can maximize what you can afford...

And you should tell us what you want to do - commute, tour, race, or just ride.

If I were getting a road bike - I'd want at least an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork and seat stays... Aluminum is harsh on bumps, the carbon fiber fork & seatstays'll help with that. I'd want at least shimano 105 level components, but people do use tiagra & sora without any issues...

Thanks for the tips and info request Catriona! Let me see if I can answer some of your questions...

Price range - under $1000 USD
Purpose - Just ride, MAYBE commute as work will be less than 7 miles out.
Framework - I definitely follow what you're talking about expect the last sentence. My younger brother used to be into BMX biking when he was younger and I have had friends that race so I know what you mean with the carbon forks and whatnot. Seatstays are another new term to me though.

Any brands that are better than others for reliability and performance?

[ccbloom]

I just went through the whole process of buying. You should be able to get new, old stock with at least Tiagra and above components for $1000, especially since it's the end of season.

After doing a lot of research and reading on the forums, I was dead-set against getting Sora parts, but I eventually ended up with some Sora because price won out and this is my first road bike. I've only had my bike a few weeks, and I haven't had any problems with them. Also, I believe Shimano warranties them for 2 years agains breakage (Sora shifters have a thumb lever which has a tendency to snap). But again, they've been fine for me for a first bike that I paid $500 for. I found a bike for $950 with 105 shifters, and while they were very nice, I couldn't justify the doubling of price. For me, it was more important to get a decent bike, get out there and ride it for a couple years and make sure I loved riding, and then when I know more of what to look for in a more expensive bike for my riding style, I'll spend the money. That's how I thought of it anyways.

[Cataboo]

The only caution I'd have against sora is that some people can't manage to shift gears in the drops because of the thumb lever... If you're not planning on riding or shifting in the drops much, this doesn't matter... If you are, then you should probably check whether or not your thumb can manage this.

At below $1,000 - I'd aim for carbon seat stays (I find that it makes a huge difference on bumps or stopping hand numbness) & fork with an aluminum frame or steel frame... if you can get 105 looking at older new old stock bikes or used bikes, great. Otherwise tiagra's slightly higher end than sora and most people can shift from the drops with it.

Steel would be a heavier option & some people prefer the ride of steel - I think the jamis aurora would be in your price range, and in general jamis is supposed to have bikes that are good value for the componentry level. I think at your price range, you're unlikely to find a full carbon or titanium frame unless you luck out looking at used bikes (can be done, but sometimes takes a lot of patience)

Otherwise - I wouldn't necessarily steer you against or for any brand, just find the best fit that you can with the components you want.

Componentry for road shimano goes sora, tiagra, 105, ultegra, and dura ace. SRAM and campy also make nice components.

I know the last time I was in REI, they did have some sales going on bikes - but you may or may not have good "help" from the sales staff there on fitting.

[aicabsolut]

For under $1000, I would look at aluminum and steel frames. For road bikes, there are a few major price points. $1000 and under, around $2000, and then much over $2000. The $2000 price point will get you an entry level carbon bike with decent components. Or it could get you a good aluminum frame like the CAAD9 with slightly better components. The farther over $2000 that you go, the more you will start to see diminishing performance returns for your dollar. Similarly, the cheaper you go, the wider the jumps in performance for the buck.

There's a lot of debate about how carbon in the rear triangle affects comfort of an aluminum bike. Some companies like to put it in the seat stays. Some in the chain stays. Some say it doesn't help at all if you can just get a nice stiff frame (like the CAAD9). I think that carbon in the rear is less for compliance and more for stiffness. Carbon in the fork is for stiffness and, therefore, smoothness of the ride.

I think that components are really important. If you're going to be hating your bike because shifting or braking is difficult, or if you're going to be annoyed because you tend to drop your chain or have to take it in frequently for derailleur tune ups, then you won't want to ride it. Better components will make your ride less of a hassle. If you're not going to be racing, then you won't necessarily notice that your bike isn't the stiffest or lightest thing out there. Also the wheels at that price point are all going to be about the same--heavy and tough but not helping you a lot in performance. Get the best parts you can afford on a decent frame. Look for new old stock and end of season (now) sales.

Shimano makes some cheap component groups, and their performance really lacks versus the high end stuff. You won't find so much of a performance gap in Campy and definitely not in SRAM. SRAM Rival is some of the best value stuff out there, IMO. Functionally, Campy and SRAM tend to be pretty equivalent throughout the ranks. Weight and bling are the biggest improvements between groups, I think. I'm not sure that Rival comes on $1k bikes, though...I haven't really looked other than for team deal stuff.

Most importantly, make sure you fit the bike. Test ride a lot of bikes.

[Owlie]

My bike is mostly Sora, and I definitely can't reach the thumb lever from the drops. For me, it doesn't particularly matter, because I'm never actually in the drops unless I'm going downhill. Your mileage may vary.

ccbloom, I pretty much bought my lower-end bike for that reason. I could have afforded the 105-equipped version (same frame, better wheels), but it's my first road bike, and I couldn't justify the extra expense, and it was More Bike than I wanted at the time.

[Cataboo]

I recommended carbon fiber seatstays, because with completely aluminum frames, my wrists go numb pretty quickly. Carbon fiber seatstays made a huge difference in that for me. But I have kind of crappy wrists to begin with.

[Biking Bella]

Wow ladies! Thank you all for the great advice and forethought on all of this. I can't tell you all of the notes I have been scribbling down and pieces of research I have been doing.

I will say that the area I'm living in is hilly, so I'm wondering if having a heavier steel frame is that great of an idea - more work to get up the hill, right? And yes, I know I'm in this for the workout and I'm not trying to cheat, just asking! haha

The shifters that I've been looking up (105's, not the thumb shifters) are pretty neat looking. The DA's are too shiny for me. Again, like others have said, for a beginner bike, it can be a big expense that isn't justifible off the bat. :)

Beginners...we all had to start somewhere, right? Well, thanks for making this "beginner's experience" one that wasn't done alone. It means a lot that you are all willing to dump whatever insight on me that you can - keep it up! I'm all ears!

If I go to a shop, what are some good questions to ask in your opinion(s)?

[Yelsel]

At your price range, you should take a look at steel. It absorbs road buzz better than aluminum or carbon, and the difference in weight between an aluminum and steel frame these days is nominal. (Steel is heavier, but also stronger; you can make very thin-walled bikes, and use different thicknesses in different parts of the bike for strength. New alloys on the market are *very* good - high quality steel bikes are now as light as titanium bikes). Also, just like boots and hiking -- it is the rotational weight that matters the most on a bike. Upgrade by buying lighter wheels; that is where the weight really matters. I have an old Bianchi steel bike as my roadie, and she can go. Someday I want a very high-end steel frame custom-built for me -- lugs, custom paint, the works -- the nice thing is that the bike will not be that much more expensive than a stock carbon-fibre bike.

Also, are you looking for the fastest road bike you can get for your money, or a better all-around bike? Many entry level "cyclocross" bikes are more like chameleons - good for commuting, light 1-2 week touring, centuries/endurance rides, fireroad to easy singletrack, and laid-back club rides. Swapping out lighter wheels and skinny tires, even faster club rides. I have a bike built on a Bianchi Volpe frame (steel), and I love it. Eventually I will replace with a Surly Express Check or Co Motion bike -- these have couplers built into the frame, so that it can be taken on the plane as regular cargo.

Jamis has great steel bicycles, and there are tons of smaller manufacturers too that specialize in steel, such as Surly.

REI has the Camera Pro on sale, but online they only have smaller bikes. It is possible one of your local stores might have one in your size in stock. It has carbon seatstays and 105 components, for $950 on sale.

[Owlie]

Remember to set aside some of your budget for a new saddle. Stock ones aren't comfy (generally speaking)!

[Biking Bella]

Thanks so much for all of the help again, ladies. It's much appreciated!

No, I don't need something that is going racing material, but I don't want it to be a slug either. ;) Then again, the bike will only go as fast as your legs will push it, right? haha.

The steel weight comparison is definitely interesting, I'll check into that!

Yes, a saddle is important as is bike shorts as mentioned before. I also found out while looking at a local bike store that not all bikes have pedals! Cannondale was the brand I believe. So, unless I go with the $10 flat pedal, I better budget for shoes with that too!

Thanks again, ladies! Keep it up! This is great!!! :D

[Crankin]

I do think the component level is important. My first road bike had Tiagra and 105's. I never, ever could get it in the big ring and I dropped the chain constantly. This continued for the whole time I had the bike, even after I had passed the "learning curve" for knowing the right gear combinations. While the bike fit me, I hated it. When I got a new bike, it had Ultegra, but since this was a few years ago, an older version. The front der. was always finicky. Again, I couldn't shift into the big ring and one time I had to commute home from work in the granny gear the whole way! Finally, after 6 months, my DH replaced the front der. with Dura Ace. This was a full carbon bike that cost a little over 2K. It took quite awhile to finally get components that worked!

[Kano]

Dropping the chain -- there's a gizmo for that now!

http://www.acecosportgroup.com/content/

I don't have one -- I'm not sure that my bike is built right, but one of these days, when it's in for some kind of service, I'm going to ask. I don't like when the chain goes...

Seattle hillies: a triple front chainring set will be nice to have. I use all three of my chainrings a lot, and it's not quite as hill in the area where I ride as Seattle. I figure maybe someday for this "compact" thing I read about here...

End of season clearances can be a great way to stretch your budget, and they're on -- if the bike fits, you may be able to get more bike for your buck by "sacrificing" color, or something relatively minor. While WSD is a good thing, a "men's" or "unisex" bike may help with this too -- don't dismiss them out of hand. Try some for feel!

The saddle -- give the one on the bike a shot, you MAY like it! I'm pretty sure that we all find that it takes a little while to be comfortable on even the best fitting saddle as we start riding, as all of it is new to our bodies and we have to get used to so much. MORE important to be sure to include in the initial investment budget is a HELMET -- which seems obvious, but I haven't seen it mentioned yet! These don't have to be expensive.



Other things to consider getting started:

Gloves that fit pretty snug (I have hand pain if they're "comfy" because the slip around) are important for our riding comfort and for just in case. I bought cheap bike shoes early on because of the nice stiff sole -- my feet hurt in "regular" shoes. At the time, I was NOT using the "fancy" pedals. The chamois in the shorts does make a difference in comfort, but I'm guessing that it will be a little while before you'll need the "good" ones, and those clearance racks will be a nice place to start that wardrobe. Like gloves, buy 'em snug, so they're not slipping around down there! (some of us are intimidated by "sausage leg" but at your height/weight, I can't see much possibility for that -- I've got a daughter about your size!)

Lights -- dark season is coming! Don't have to be real expensive, just bright. Something to carry a spare tube and tools in (I really am glad I changed to kevlar tires early on. changing tires isn't my idea of fun, and I got lots of practice the first few weeks!)

I'm finding myself going on and on, have a question I've come up with myself that I'll start a thread on, but oh CRAP! I have to get ready to go to work!!!!

Karen in Boise

[Biking Bella]

You're right, things like gloves, helmet (which is required by law here), etc are important and an investment at the time of purchase. The '09 sales are on and I have started looking around! I'll visit another shop tomorrow (Redmond Cycle) and see what they have at this point.

I'm also looking on craigslist and ironically I'm not finding too much in a 54cm. Then again, that size is really popular so it doesn't shock me. But, can anyone tell me about some of these components? Are they low end? Have you heard of them before? I'm still trying to learn the ropes so I'm sorry for all the questions!!!

Link to Bike (http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/bik/1366109437.html)

I also saw this one (http://skagit.craigslist.org/bik/1357670711.html) but I can get a Cannondale Synapses 6 (I think?) for $1300 at the local bike shop.

Also, I'm also seeing something on the Cannondale site that they have a "Cyclocross" bike. It seems it's for people that also tackle mud on their rides. By glancing at the bike picture, it looks the same as a road bike, but with mountain bike-type tires. Is that correct? And if so, can that be done with a road bike (or even using half and half tires), or is that a "no-no". I'm just wondering for education-sake, so no "just buy a mountain bike" comments please. haha.

Thanks!!!!

[redrhodie]

I missed the part about why you think you need a 54cm?

[Biking Bella]

I missed the part about why you think you need a 54cm?

Because I went to the bike shop and they "estimated" that's what I would need...??? I will go in this week and sit on the "bike simulator" that they have. You dial in a bikemake an model and it will change the gearing, feel, etc and you bike on that to try it out before you go out on the road with it.

I'm 5ft 6in with longer legs, so they said a 54cm bike would probably be my fit. It's just a guess while I'm doing research. Is there something I'm missing?

[redrhodie]

You're kind of missing some info. All bikes are not built with the same geometry, so you will find some 54cms will be too big, and some may be too small. It's kind of like saying you're a size 4 in jeans, and expecting Gap jeans will fit the same as Calvin Kleins.

I think 54cm sounds big, because I'm 5'5", and I ride a 50cm and a 48cm, both from the same frame maker, but it's not out of the realm of possiblity that a lot of frames in that size will fit you. Also, if you're thinking of a cross frame, the geometry of those run extra big to make room for the mud. ;)

We have some amazing bike builders on this forum who may chime in, and a lot of experienced fitters, which I am not. I just know for sure you may end up with a completely ill fitting bike if you just go by that size. I know that complicates things, but I hope it helps in the long run!

[Biking Bella]

Wow, red. I did NOT know that! Thanks SO much for type of information! It was great that you compared it to the sizing of jeans/pants - good analogy! I thought it was a "if you are between this height and that height, then you're into this bike measurement"...wow.

Looks like I'll have to get on that bike simulator at the bike shop soon and see what they come up with. I'd like to hear anything from those experts on here though! :)

Keep the good stuff coming!

Next question - handle bars....flat versus drop? Pros/cons?

:D

[Cataboo]

If you're 5'6 with longer legs - estimating comparing you to a friend of mine who's 5'6 with a 33 inch inseam.. I think a 54 would be too big... my friend rides a 52-53... the 53 cms a tad big on him, the 52 cm's just right, a 50 cm is manageable....

Use bikepedia to figure out components... that first bike (the trek), really didn't say what model it was or year. The scattante had campy components which looked pretty good... but you'd either have to buy wheels or ride with his dented ones...

I'm 5'1 and ride a 48 cm frame usually, I can just barely clear a 50 cm frame and ride it, but 48's about perfect.

[Cataboo]

Btw, cyclocross bikes have a higher bottom bracket, so they have more clearance for off road... (typically). They have burlier wheels, etc. to deal with it as well. Typically on a cyclocross bike you want more standover height than you want on a road bike, just because of how you use it... So you'd want to get a smaller frame for a cyclocross bike. They're a bit more versatile, but they won't be as fast on road as a road bike (unless you swap the tires), and they don't have suspensions like mountain bikes...

You can put thicker tires on road bikes, depending on the road bike... it depends on how much clearance the bike has around the fork and rear triangle to fit a thicker tire... some of them can take more, most can take a 700x23 instead of a 700x25....But many of them can't do much thicker than that.

[Owlie]

I'm about your height, and my bike's a 50cm (I think that's Giant's definition of "medium"...) BF's bike is a 53-4 cm, I think, and I can barely ride it.

[Biking Bella]

*nods* Good to know ladies. I'll start looking into 50cm more and get a definite number (or at least close to it) when I hit up the bike store!

Thanks for the clarification on the cross bikes and the tires that I could use on a road bike. I'll jot that down for later use. ;)

To answer a question about the Trek, here is the response I got from the owner: It is a 2008 aluminum frame with Tiagra shifters and a 105 deraileur. The seat stays are the only carbon parts on a trek 2.1c bike. Most other parts on the bike including rims and seat post are Bontrager.

I noted that there is a used cycle shop in downtown Seattle. Maybe once I get a measurement from my local bike shop, I can then call down and get a laundry list of what they have...?

[Cataboo]

I think $1000 for a used bike with tiagra shifters is too much. at that price point for used, you want 105 level components or ultegra. Preferably ultegra.

Used bike wise,

[Biking Bella]

I think $1000 for a used bike with tiagra shifters is too much. at that price point for used, you want 105 level components or ultegra. Preferably ultegra.

Used bike wise,

Yep! I totally agree with you there! When I got the stats back from the owner, I couldn't understand why I would pay $1300 for a new '09 C'Dale Synapse 5 (http://www3.cannondale.com/bikes/09/cusa/model-9RWA5C.html) compared to that bike for $1000. I think I'll leave that one go. ;) Thanks for the look on that!

Anyone on flatbar versus drop with pros and cons? :rolleyes:

[redrhodie]

Anyone on flatbar versus drop with pros and cons? :rolleyes:

I can't speak to the pros of flat bars, since I have wrist issues that were aggravated by my old flat bar mtb (but lots of people love flat bars), but I love me some drops. :D Drop bars give a lot of options for hand placement, which means you can easily change your body position for different conditions (like on the top of the hoods for a more relaxed position for better breathing and while climbing, or in the drops for improved aerodynamics while descending or riding into the wind). Just being able to move my hands has really helped my wrist issues from flaring up.

[indigoiis]

Hi Bella,
You're getting lots of good advice here.
You CAN get a bike on Craigslist - that's how I got my first road bike - but if you can, take it for a good long ride first. A good seller will let you ride the bike for at least a half hour. Bring a tool to raise or lower the seat as comfortable (or if the bike has a quick release seatpost, use that.) The saddle should be set so that when your foot is in the down pedal at six o'clock, there is a slight bend to the knee while seated on the saddle. If you can wear bike shorts to your test ride, do.

Also, like RR said, size is different on different models and frames. I ride a 49cm cross style tourer that is a little small for me but is very aggressive and fun to ride, while my road bike is a 54. I am 5'6 with very short legs and a long torso, so women's specific design (even though I have it on my road bike) is not the best geometry for me.

The only way you'll know is to take the bike out and ride it. The bike shop's horse isn't going to tell you if you'll love the ride.

Enjoy the shopping!

[aicabsolut]

If you're looking at WSD bikes, a 54cm may be the right size. FYI, I'm 5'7" and ride a 54cm unisex frame. Anyway, some manufacturers basically make their WSD bikes a size down from marked compared to the unisex line, though there is some variation, like seat tubes may be on the longer side. So, if I got the women's version of my bike (a Specialized), I would get a 56cm.

I would guess that 50cm is fairly small for you, and it might mean you'd have some pretty aggressive saddle to bar drop (i.e., you'd need a lot of seatpost, and the head tube will be short). A 54cm could be too big. 52cm may be right on. This will all vary by manufacturer.

[redrhodie]

I'll start looking into 50cm more and get a definite number (or at least close to it) when I hit up the bike store!


Oh, I didn't mean to imply that I think you're a 50cm! I guess it sounded like that's what I meant, but I meant you may be a 54 in some bikes, but probably not all bikes. :o

[Biking Bella]

If you're looking at WSD bikes, a 54cm may be the right size. FYI, I'm 5'7" and ride a 54cm unisex frame. Anyway, some manufacturers basically make their WSD bikes a size down from marked compared to the unisex line, though there is some variation, like seat tubes may be on the longer side. So, if I got the women's version of my bike (a Specialized), I would get a 56cm.

I would guess that 50cm is fairly small for you, and it might mean you'd have some pretty aggressive saddle to bar drop (i.e., you'd need a lot of seatpost, and the head tube will be short). A 54cm could be too big. 52cm may be right on. This will all vary by manufacturer.

Ahhhh, I think you hit the nail on the head here! I forgot to mention that the 54cm that the store quoted was for a WSD frame they had! Sorry everyone, but I did learn a lot from the mistake! :)

[fatbottomedgurl]

Okay well I ride a 50cm and I am 5'3". Height is not the judge. It's leg length, torso length, arm length and other factors.

All of this "Well I have a friend who..." reminds me of "He's just not that into you."

I suggest going to a shop with a fit kit.

Or... okay I'll be the one... check out Craigslist, find some bikes with decent components between 50 and 53 cm, take a few test rides, if one feels good spend a few hundred bucks on it for a starter bike and see if you actually like road riding. Then save your pennies for a higher end bike down the road.

[featuretile]

My bike is a flatbar roadbike from Specialized with Sora components. It has the EZ Fire shifters. They work great. I had them adjusted once when I first got the bike and had a little difficulty with shifting in one gear. I have since just passed 1000 miles on my odometer (yeah!!!!) and have never had a problem shifting.

I think WSD bikes must have a larger measurement than men's because mine is 51cm and I am 5'3" and it fit perfectly as soon as I got on it. Perhaps you would fit on a 54cm in a women's and something else in a men's style.