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View Full Version : My return to touring --- 6 days riding in Downeast Maine



DeniseGoldberg
06-15-2005, 06:59 PM
Just over a week to go...

I'm (finally!) about to re-enter the world of touring on my bicycle. I'll be headed to Maine for what was intended to be a long weekend on my bike, but somehow it morphed into the better part of a week of cycling, with a day off to go visit puffins on an island off the coast (the ocean permitting, of course).

I'll be keeping a journal of my trip, and I've just made it available. You can find it at http://denise2005downeast.crazyguyonabike.com. Right now it contains my thoughts leading up to and planning the tour, along with an overview of my plans.

I intend to update the journal while I'm on the road, but there will be several nights when that won't be possible. And pictures will have to wait until I get home again.

I'd be honored if you'll follow along with me in my journal. I'll be on the road (and on my bike) from June 24th through the 29th.

--- Denise

spazzdog
06-15-2005, 07:36 PM
Good luck and good riding to you!

spazz

SadieKate
06-15-2005, 07:48 PM
Do you suppose we could see the voyage by following your tres chic purple armwarmers by satellite? :D

DeniseGoldberg
06-15-2005, 07:52 PM
Do you suppose we could see the voyage by following your tres chic purple armwarmers by satellite? :D

Well, I was kind of hoping for bare arms weather - but you know I'll have those purple armwarmers with me just in case! I don't suppose you have a satellite tracking attachment for me, do you?

--- Denise

Veronica
06-15-2005, 07:55 PM
Where exactly are you going?

V.

DeniseGoldberg
06-15-2005, 08:05 PM
Where exactly are you going?

V.

I'll be driving to Ellsworth and switching to my trusty purple steed there.


Day 1, June 24th. Ellsworth to Bar Harbor, then a loop around the east side of Mt. Desert Island, back to Bar Harbor for the night
Day 2, June 25th. Cross the island to the west, loop around the west side of Mt. Desert Island, back to Ellsworth
Day 3, June 26th. From Ellsworth to the east along Frenchman's Bay, down and around the Schoodic Penninsula, overnight in Prospect Harbor
Day 4, June 27th. Wander along the coast (with a few inland roads), still heading east to Jonesport
Day 5, June 28th. A boat tour to Machias Seal Island to visit the puffins in the morning, then probably some unloaded riding in the area in the afternoon. One more night in Jonesport.
Day 6, June 29th. Last day of riding, Jonesport to Ellsworth


I'll spend one more night in Ellsworth, then drive home the next day.

Veronica
06-15-2005, 08:15 PM
That sounds wonderful! Are you camping or "credit card" touring? Either way it will be an adventure.

We'll be in Maine at the end of July and again in in mid August.

V.

DeniseGoldberg
06-15-2005, 08:18 PM
It's definitely a credit card tour this time, split between hotels and B&Bs.

Where are you going to be on your visit (or is that visits ) to Maine?

--- Denise

Veronica
06-15-2005, 08:47 PM
It's visits. :p We'll be there July 26 - Aug. 2 to go to my reunion and visit with my family. Thom's parents are truck drivers and they won't be home then. So we're stopping back again for a few days before we fly to the Azores Aug. 16 - 19.

It's going to be a busy summer!

Please write about the B&Bs you stay at - especially the hosts and the breakfast! We like to go up to that area if we're spending more than a week at home.

I'm glad you're touring again. I haven't gone to read about your accident. Just the things you said here were enough to freak me out. :p So I'm thrilled that you're out and about.

V.

Trek420
06-15-2005, 09:40 PM
Tailwinds!

DeniseGoldberg
06-16-2005, 03:28 AM
Please write about the B&Bs you stay at - especially the hosts and the breakfast!

...I'm glad you're touring again... V.

There are links to the web sites for the two B&Bs in the journal already, and I'll plan on including at least a quick review of both of them after the trip. The folks I talked to on the phone when I made the reservations seemed very nice, so here's hoping they are good spots to stay!

I'm glad I'm touring again too. It's been a long spring, trying to get myself back into shape for biking 50+ miles day after day with gear on the bike. Of course credit card touring is much easier from a weight standpoint! Here's hoping...

You are going to keep us posted on your own travels this summer too, right?

--- Denise

Veronica
06-16-2005, 04:16 AM
We'll at least put pictures up on tandemhearts. I don't know how much of a write up I'll do for the mountain bike trips. Battery life is one of those things we have yet to work out.

V.

emily_in_nc
06-16-2005, 08:08 AM
It's wonderful that you will be touring again soon, Denise! I look forward to reading your tour journal. Wishing you lovely weather and tailwinds!

~Emily

aka_kim
06-16-2005, 09:53 AM
Great name for your journal, Denise!

Can I ask what are probably stupid questions? In picking your route, do you also look at topo maps so you'll know the climbing to expect? What gear do you take for a credit card tour -- do you use the trailer?

DeniseGoldberg
06-16-2005, 10:50 AM
Great name for your journal, Denise!

Can I ask what are probably stupid questions? In picking your route, do you also look at topo maps so you'll know the climbing to expect? What gear do you take for a credit card tour -- do you use the trailer?

I'm glad you like the name - I had fun coming up with it!

Your questions aren't stupid at all. It probably would have been smart to use topo maps, but I didn't. I just assumed that coastal Maine would have some ups & downs... From the state road map it doesn't look like there are a lot of roads to choose from, so I just used a combination of the state map, the Maine bicycling map (which really doesn't show much more - they have good cue sheets for specific rides, but only 1 is in the area that I am planning to wander in), and a confirmation of distance by using AAA's online TripTik.

On the panniers vs. trailer front, I'm planning to use just 2 panniers for this trip. And I'll be using my front panniers (because they are smaller than the rear panniers) on the rear rack. I haven't tried to fit everything in them yet, but I don't think I'll have a problem.

Are you asking just because you're curious, or are you planning a tour yourself? If you're planning a tour, I've written a couple of articles about my decisions between using a trailer or panniers, and about the gear I take with me on my tours. Here are links to the articles in case you're planning your own tour - but I'd be happy to try to answer any questions you have, just keep asking!

"Panniers, a trailer, both?" can be found at http://PanniersOrTrailer.crazyguyonabike.com
and
"What's in that trailer? Or in those panniers?" can be found at http://DenisePacks.crazyguyonabike.com

aka_kim
06-16-2005, 12:14 PM
Thanks for the links. I'm not planning a tour, but I've gone from the "what, are you crazy" stage to "hmm, sounds like fun" stage, and am interested in how light you can make credit card touring. Your packing article was very helpful.

MomOnBike
06-16-2005, 12:19 PM
I knew you'd be taking tours again! You're an inspiration.

Good luck, good weather, all that.

I'll be following the write-up.

CorsairMac
06-16-2005, 02:06 PM
ahhhh Denise! After your accident I know how important this trip is to you. Keeping you in my thoughts and yuppers - I'll be following you in your journals. Have a safe and fun trip!!

wabisabi
06-16-2005, 04:35 PM
Denise, I just wanted to say that I really like reading your journals, you have a distinct voice and the pictures are great. We have another friend going across country right now, so I drop in on his and yours, oh, and the guy with the two dogs, I just can't resist them.

nuthatch
06-16-2005, 06:56 PM
Be safe and have fun, Denise! There's nothing like the wind in your helmet! :D

susan.wells
06-17-2005, 05:21 AM
Enjoy the trip! I always enjoy reading your journals. I'm doing my first small tour this year so my curosity is quite high.

Hoping the weather gods are good to you!
Susan

DeniseGoldberg
06-17-2005, 05:38 AM
...I'm doing my first small tour this year so my curosity is quite high.


Susan -
I'm sure that you'll have a great time! Where are you planning to tour?

--- Denise

susan.wells
06-18-2005, 03:27 AM
It will be a supported tour. I'm doing DALMAC (http://www.biketcba.org/DALMAC/dframe.html) which is Lansing to Mackinac City, MI. The final day, weather permitting & bravery in tow, you can ride across the Mackinac Island bridge (http://www.mightymac.org/).

Susan

DeniseGoldberg
06-18-2005, 05:05 AM
...The final day, weather permitting & bravery in tow, you can ride across the Mackinac Island bridge (http://www.mightymac.org/).

Susan

I've never been to Mackinac Island, even though I lived in Michigan for many years (many years ago). I remember driving across the bridge to the UP, but I'd love to see the Mackinac Island Bridge from the perspective of a cyclist! Pictures, please... (I hope you'll have a camera with you on your trip.)

Have fun!

--- Denise

spazzdog
06-18-2005, 06:05 AM
Watching GMA and they were showing Fathers Day fun gifts... but one of them is made for you Denise.

It was a little Samsung dig camera... shoots vid and stills. The clincher, a remote lense attachment you plug into the little camera and you can mount that puppy on your head :D ... or your handlebars.

spazz, always looking for products for my TE buddys

DeniseGoldberg
06-18-2005, 07:47 AM
...The clincher, a remote lense attachment you plug into the little camera and you can mount that puppy on your head :D ... or your handlebars.

spazz, always looking for products for my TE buddys

Hey, thanks Spazz!

Now if they only made something like that for my little Canon digital (still-only) camera, since I'm not likely to buy a video camera... But much as I'd like to be able to shoot pictures while I'm rolling down the road, I do enjoy stopping to look around and enjoy the places I'm traveiling through. So for now I guess I'll just have to continue using my camera as an excuse for a stop!

--- Denise

oldbikah
06-18-2005, 08:07 AM
By the way, Denise, are you aware that there is a ferry which goes from Bar Harbor over to the Schoodic peninsula. You could avoid backtracking from Bar Harbor to Ellsworth, and also avoid doing the Route 1 section from Bar harbor to Winter Harbor twice. The ride around Schoodic is lovely.

I was on the island last month and was lucky enough to get a couple of days of dry riding in. Spent many a day at Otter Cliffs supposedly studying when I was in college (Univ of Maine).

DeniseGoldberg
06-18-2005, 09:20 AM
...are you aware that there is a ferry which goes from Bar Harbor over to the Schoodic peninsula. You could avoid backtracking from Bar Harbor to Ellsworth, and also avoid doing the Route 1 section from Bar harbor to Winter Harbor twice. The ride around Schoodic is lovely.


Thanks! I am aware of the ferry (although I wasn't until the innkeeper from the place I'll be staying in Prospect Harbor mentioned it). I did consider it, but I decided that I would like to do the ride. I will only be doing the section of route 1 between Ellsworth & Winter Harbor once though, because after I bike the Schoodic Penninsula I will be staying in Prospect Harbor, then heading east to Jonesport the next day. There are a few sections of route 1 near Jonesport that I'll have to repeat as I return to Ellsworth, but I'm planning my return trip via route 182 from Cherryfield. Have you ridden that road?

--- Denise

oldbikah
06-18-2005, 11:27 AM
Looks like you have all the info! Have a great time. Have not ridden the Cherryfield rd.....most in that area are pretty narrow and wind about like a snake!

DeniseGoldberg
06-18-2005, 01:43 PM
I guess I'll have to let you know how it is after I ride it! It's marked on my map as a State Scenic Highway, which made it jump out at me as I was trying to avoid riding the same roads that I did on the way out. Of course on the Maine Bicycle Map it's marked exactly as you described it - no shoulders!

Veronica
06-25-2005, 11:53 AM
I want to be Denise right now. I'm getting hungry for lobster rolls. :p

V.

DeniseGoldberg
07-03-2005, 05:00 AM
Please write about the B&Bs you stay at - especially the hosts and the breakfast! We like to go up to that area if we're spending more than a week at home.


V -
I've included a review of both the Oceanside Meadows Inn (Prospect Harbor) and Harbor House on Sawyer Cove (B&B) in my trip journal. The page describing them is here (http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/journal/page/?o=ao&page_id=23376&v=c).

If (or maybe I should say when) I'm in the area again, I would happily return to either place.

--- Denise

Veronica
07-03-2005, 05:16 AM
Thanks!

It sounds like you had a wonderful time.

V.

DeniseGoldberg
07-03-2005, 05:20 AM
It sounds like you had a wonderful time.

V.

I did! Now I just have to finish uploading pictures to my journal. I'll post a note here when I'm done...

How is Thom doing? Are you still planning to head to Maine this month?

--- Denise

Veronica
07-03-2005, 05:32 AM
How is Thom doing? Are you still planning to head to Maine this month?

--- Denise

He's no longer using the sling and is able to type some, the doc said he was okay to play the piano, but that REALLY hurt. He's getting some range of motion back. So coming along.


Yep, my 20th reunion is July 30th. We're thinking hard about bringing the tandem. It has S&S couplers so can be carried as luggage. I think we should ride to visit family. :D

V.

Surlygirl
07-03-2005, 12:56 PM
Have fun V. My family and I will be on Vinalhaven July 19-27th then up to Acadia for some camping, biking, oh and popovers and tea at the Jordan Pond House. Can't go to Acadia without a stop there. :D

Veronica
07-03-2005, 02:32 PM
We're only going back for a week, so I think any real touristy stuff is unlikely to happen. My brother and two sisters who still live in Maine have been redoing my mom's house. She had really let the place go - lots of water damage from a leaky roof, pipes that had burst... the whole bathroom had to be replaced. So far our only contribution has been to pay for the two dumpsters that were required to get rid of a lot of the junk she had. This is the first weekend since the beginning of May that they haven't worked on her house - and it's still not done!

I've never been to Vinalhaven. You'll have to post pictures. :) I am really looking forward to Italians, lobster rolls and cream horns.

V.

DeniseGoldberg
07-04-2005, 05:54 PM
If you'd like to see photos from my tour, you can find them in my smugmug gallery "Wandering by bike in Downeast Maine - June 2005" at http://denise.smugmug.com/Travel/89603.

I've split the photos into 4 separate galleries with the hopes that you would be able to enjoy the different parts of my trip. The galleries are:

From Ellsworth to Mt. Desert Island & to the east along the coast.
Acadia National Park - including both the main part of the park on Mt. Desert Island, and the Schoodic Penninsula which is a little further to the east
Puffins and razorbills and terns! From my visit to Machias Seal Island. The birds were incredible!
Campobello Island - a quick venture into New Brunswick, Canada to visit FDRs summer home and to just explore the island. Interesting that the only bridge to this island in Canada is from the United States.


--- Denise

DeniseGoldberg
07-20-2005, 06:37 AM
I've finished adding photos to my journal, and while there is some overlap between the photos in my smugmug gallery and those in the journal - there are also photos in both places that are not in the other.

http://denise2005downeast.crazyguyonabike.com

--- Denise

JanT
07-20-2005, 10:47 AM
I always enjoy your photos--great nature photography! Your pictures take us along for the ride. Thanks for sharing.