Riding in the San Juans

[Susan Otcenas]

Jeff & I are travelling to Victoria BC for the 2009 Tandem Rally on July 4th weekend. After that, we'd like to spend some time cycling inthe San Juans. I've never been to the San Juans before. Anyone have recommendations on rides, routes, accommodations, etc? Are there any good books out there that are specifically on cycling in the San Juans?

Any advice is appreciated!

Susan

[Aint Doody]

Susan, in Aug. 2005 a friend and I did Bicycle Adventure's 6-day San Juan Island tour. It was great. However, there's quite a bit of traffic in the summer and the roads are fairly narrow. They were almost all chip sealed, too. Just be careful. I nearly got hit twice by stupid motorists. The speed limit is 45, but they don't appear to adhere to that.

Now for the good part. Our favorite place to stay was on San Juan at Lakedale Lodge. It was beautiful, charming, and very comfortable. It was between Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. We ate at a restaurant about a mile from the lodge called Duck Soup that was divine. The cycling on San Juan is challenging for the most part. Don't miss Lime Kiln State Park there. As well there's an English fort that has gorgeous gardens. I don't remember it's name. Also Roche Harbor is fun if touristy on San Juan.

We also cycled on Orcas. We climbed Mt. Constitution. It's 4.7 miles of about 2200 ft of switchbacks. I "cross-trained" on that one and sweated buckets in the fog. Fortunately our SAG van was at the top. In the fog it was just too cold to try to ride back down. Those who did were miserable. I would suggest Rosario Resort on Orcas. We didn't stay there, but the place we stayed has since closed, I think. I wasn't exactly crazy about it anyway. The quaint town of East Sound is on Orcas. I bet there's a great B&B there. We had a wonderful meal there at a restaurant called New Leaf or Green Leaf.

Don't miss cycling on Lopez. It's the flattest and was described as a rolling pancake. We didn't stay on Lopez, but I do recall that there were lovely B&B's there that we passed. We also cycled on Guemes. It's got very, very steep hills. The ferry system between the islands is wonderful.

There's so much to see--gorgeous views, lavender farms, parks, orcas (I never saw one!) Enjoy it. If you're interested, I could dig around and probably find our maps and turn-by-turn directions. You could tailor those to suit y'all.

Susan

[jesvetmed]

Susan: Ain't Doody did a marvelous review of the islands! The 4th of July week is VERY busy on any of the islands, so be aware that the traffic you run into will be heavy. I know that BikerHen came over and toured the islands last year -- you may want to check with her, also.

There are some amazing campsites on the islands -- on San Juan they are right along the beach where the whales are. THese book up WAY in advance, as do the B&B / hotels there for summer. Plan and book way ahead!!!

I have a book that may be helpful: "Biking Puget Sound: 50 Rides from Olympia to the San Juans" by Bill Thorness -- this is put out by The Mountaineers. Only one section is San Juans, but it is very good and has maps. Here's the link at Google Books: (http://books.google.com/books?hl=en&id=IngVwrdDvNQC&dq=biking+san+juans&printsec=frontcover&source=web&ots=l5O2IV8T2Y&sig=taRqgw44sU2MsN18HseIk1wa7cg&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=9&ct=result)

Also SUNSET magazine has done short articles on the San Juans -- where to eat / stay / see before. I have no idea how long it's been, but maybe there is a search engine on their website?

As for the orcas: I've learned the way to see them is to be patient. We go and pack a picnic, take a bottle of wine, and sit on a bench or rocks along Lime Kiln near the Lighthouse. And WAIT. It takes hours sometimes. But the do come. We saw them finally at sunset one night -- hunting their way up along the beach. It is so worth the wait. Bring good binoculars! You can also rent kayaks in many places if you really want to get close! The "whale watching" tours I guess I have problems with -- yes, you get to see them usually, but they spend all day chasing those poor creatures with multiple boats, helicopters, etc.

Overall it is just a spectacular area!

Here are some useful websites:
http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/getaways/137818_lopezride04.htm (http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/getaways/137818_lopezride04.html)l
http://www.thesanjuans.com/Biking%20in%20the%20San%20Juan%20Islands,%20Orcas%20Island,%20Lopez%20Island,%20Friday%20Harbor%20and%20Anacortes.htm
http://www.travel-watch.com/biking.htm
http://www.scs.unr.edu/~sulli_t/sanjuani.html

[Aint Doody]

jesvetmed, I think the orcas know I'm around and hide. I've been in the San Juans and Canadian Gulf Islands 5 different times for multiple days and have never yet seen one! Once I was on a sailboat from Anacortes to Victoria, once on a dive trip for 2 days, once on a dive boat for 5 days, once on the bike ride, and even on a cruise that started in Seattle and went to Alaska. On the cruise ship everybody in my family saw one--not me!!!! I know you don't approve but on the bike ride a whale watching boat was arranged for us, but the fog was too heavy where the orcas were (smart creatures.) I haven't given up hope; seeing an orca in the wild is on my "bucket list." And I like your formula the best! I haven't tried that method.

[jesvetmed]

Doody.... you are orca-cursed! That is so much time out there and the perfect opportunities to see them. If it's any consolation, I've lived in this area my whole life, but didn't see one until about 8 yrs ago. And haven't seen one since. Of course, work life has taken over my time for "touring" around, so I've had limited opportunity lately.

Once, we were on the ferry going to Victoria BC, and I sat with my hot coffee, freezing outside, with the hope of getting a glance... I went inside once for a potty break, and wouldn't you know -- the whales came when I was in there. I felt totally cursed! My husband sees them while fishing all of the time ... and so I tag along even though I really don't enjoy it all that much. We've NEVER come across them when I am with him! :rolleyes:
My friend and I set up a tour once, too, but it also got cancelled. We figured that was ok, cuz we both felt bad about planning it! ;)

I think they are quite elusive... even with the choppers and multiple boats looking for them all summer, the tour guides miss them a lot of days, also.

[maillotpois]

Thanks for all the great information! We're planning a late July motorcycle trip up to Seattle and then Victoria/San Juans, etc. when we get there. I will take a look at the links.... :)

[shootingstar]

We did a short trip on San Juan Island over the Canada Day weekend (July 1) which ran into July 4th weekend.

http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showthread.php?t=24517

[Aint Doody]

jesvetmed, I am orca-cursed for sure. I forgot to mention that on a kayaking outing while on the cruise, I asked our guide if orcas were ever spotted on the little trip. His reply was, "Oh, yes, nearly all the time." Welllllllllllllllllll......... Obviously you and I don't need to try to see them together. They'd probably head to Florida if we did!

[jesvetmed]

Obviously you and I don't need to try to see them together. They'd probably head to Florida if we did!

That would be hilarious if it weren't so painfully true! :p

[bikerHen]

I just have one thing to say. Lopez Island is not flat!

We rode around the island on a perfect day last April. It was a great but challenging day. Of course my view maybe somewhat slanted cause I picked up a BOB Trailer I had bought on e-bay, when we landed on Lopez. Since my bike was the only one the trailer could hook to, I was the pack mule. We majorly over packed. :eek:

April was nice because there was very little traffic. The roads are all narrow with little to no shoulder. I would VERY careful in July. bikerHen

[Connie]

It used to be that you have the ferry fees going up but not coming back down. So, when you plan your trip and if you plan to visit more than one island go to the island that is further up the chain first then make your way back so that when you get off the ferry you won't have to keep paying every time you get back on. I hope that makes sense! I've only riden Lopez because that is suppose to be the flatest island of them all. I didn't have any problems but that was years ago. I'm hoping to do it again this summer. It's much better to walk on the ferry with your bike and leave your car on the mainland. I've also done the kayak tour out of Friday Harbor and we did get to see whales. It was pretty neat! The boats are suppose to keep there distance from the whales. It's illegal to chase them or at least it used to be. I hope you have a wonderful trip!:)

[Susan Otcenas]

Sorry for the delayed reply.

Thank you ALL for your wonderful advice. So much to see, so little time!

We'll be spending 7 nights in Victoria. I have rides planned 4 of those days, one of which includes a ride to Salt Spring Island.

After Victoria, I have 3 nights/4 days to explore the San Juans. I want to make the most of our time, without feeling "rushed". I'm hoping to visit 2 islands (maybe 3) in that time period. I'll need to end up in Port Angeles, where I'm planning on leaving my truck on the way to Victoria.

I should also mention that we'll be on our tandem (having been to the tandem rally in Victoria) and will be doing much of our riding hauling our panniers. We'll definitely do the B&B thing - no camping! The older I get, the more I appreciate a hot shower and a soft bed at the end of a long day of cycling. :D

Jesvetmed - thanks for the book reference. I'll go see if I can hunt it down.

Susan - I'll let you know about the maps. It's a long way off yet, so I have plenty of time to dream up cycling routes.....I'll be sure to ask your opinion on some proposed routes, as I get closer to the trip.

Thanks again ladies!

Susan

[Grog]

Cool plan, Susan!

If you want, I think I still have somewhere a route around the Saanich Peninsula that my husband and I did. Around 100 km, lots of rollers and quite nice scenery. We did that route over and over again when we lived there for just a month.

Watch for deer on Saltspring Island. It was introduced by Europeans settlers and has no natural predator. There are LOTS of them and they tend to just jump in front of you at any time.

Have a great trip!!

[jobob]

These are great maps - Lee and I used them when we stayed in Victoria & cycled on Vancouver Island:
http://www.gvcc.bc.ca/touring.shtml

You can view the maps here:
http://www.gvcc.bc.ca/recrides.shtml

Lee & I rode the combined Loops 1 & 2 shown on the Saanich map (http://www.gvcc.bc.ca/recrides/rides202.jpg) - it was a great day!

Don't forget to check out Butchart Gardens & the Butterfly Museum.

[Susan Otcenas]

Jobob,

Thanks for the great links!

THe first day of the tandem rally is an organized route to Butchart Gardens, including special admissions rate for rally participants. I noticed on the map that it was close to the Butterfly Gardens, so I'm pretty sure we'll make an "unscheduled" stop there as well.

I'm so excited about this trip. But, it's still 5.5 months away. :(

Susan

[Dianyla]

Chiming in late to second the recommendation to visit Orcas Island and riding up Mt. Constitution. On a day with good visibility it's stunning. :)

Also, there's a rather nice hippie-ish clothing optional hotsprings at Doe Bay, on Orcas. ;)