Road handlebar angst [Archive] - Women's Cycling Discussion Forums

rij73

07-30-2008, 09:00 AM

After deliberation and much trying out of bikes, I have determined that I would be happier with a shallow drop, classic round bend handlebar. I would also enjoy a wing top. It should be inexpensive too.

The only bar I've seen that has all of this is the FSA Wing Pro Compact. See: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/road-bikes/product-components/2008-fsa-wing-pro-compact-alloy-handlebar-4183_28_TRUE.html

Only one problem... I love my 17 degree rise stem, but it has a 26.0 clamp, and the handlebar only comes in 31.8. The simple solution is to just bite the bullet and get a new stem too. However, this is absolutely not going to fly with DH. Even a new handlebar is pushing it. I do ride fine with what I have... not like I'm in pain or anything. This is definitely more of a want than a need.

Soooooo... thought I'd ask all you brilliant ladies if you know of a classic bend, shallow drop bar that comes in a 26.0. Much Googling has gotten me nowhere.

Thanks!

VeloVT

07-30-2008, 09:35 AM

Deda 215 shallow:
http://www.dedaelementi.com/En/Products/Products_Detail.aspx?SearchMode=Component&SearchComponent=Road+handlebar+26%2c0&ProductIDMaster=379
(I think this is the 26.0 version of the Newton bar).

Only problem (which may not be a problem for you) is that the smallest available size is 42cm o-o (which is a 40cm bar measured in the more standard way).

Very light, and pretty too.

mayanorange

07-30-2008, 09:39 AM

I just got the FSA wing pro compact last night at my fitting and it's awesome! Might be worth the stem swap. They sell a ton at that shop because it really is a great bar. For sizing, it's measured at the drops, but the hoods are about 2cm closer together- I'm a 38 shoulder but got the 40.

rij73

07-30-2008, 10:26 AM

Thanks guys!

Liza: Don't know how I missed that. I currently use a Deda Piega in a 42, so I bet that bar would work great. There's even one my size on Ebay right now. Keeping an eye on it...

Mayanorange: Yeah, it does look like a sweet bar. I will consider just waiting until I can justify it along with a new stem. Like I said, there is no hurry... I just love obsessing over these little details.

VeloVT

07-30-2008, 12:31 PM

I have the FSA Wing Pro compact bar too. I did not know the the hood measurement was narrower, so I ordered a 38. It's actually alright for me, but I think I'd prefer the 40... always something to change, right? It's ok for now but I might get a larger bar down the road.

Other than that, it's a nice bar. The shape of the drops is very comfortable, and, although I don't use the tops very often, the wing shape is really, really nice.

elk

08-13-2008, 01:55 PM

I held that bar in my hands today and it is calling to me!!! Liza, that was your first suggestion when I was going through bar angst a while ago.

i got shims on my brake levers (yay!)

As soon as I figure out my best stem angle* (I've got an adjustable now) I'm ready to get a 31.8 stem so I can get that bar...it's perfect!! (the FSA wing pro compact)

There is one called shallow..that's a different bar from the compact it seems...is it?

*how DOES one figure out which stem to buy?

VeloVT

08-13-2008, 04:56 PM

*how DOES one figure out which stem to buy?

The people who care about style will tell you to pick a stem from the same manufacturer as the bar (Deda bar? Deda stem. FSA bar? FSA stem). It's as silly as any other style rule, but honestly, it's as good a criterion as any -- otherwise there are lots of choices that are all equally good, and there's really no non-arbitrary way to choose between them.

Then just pick the lightest stem your budget will allow, that comes in the angle you need.

**I bought an FSA OS-99 stem to go with my Wing Pros. However, I did need a longer stem. If the stock stem had been the right length, I would NOT have bought a new one just to match the brands.

elk

08-13-2008, 07:28 PM

i meant more in terms of length and angle....:p

I just angled my adjustable up a few cm and will try that. It was straight before and I've been having a bit of wrist pain.

I also noticed that I frequently have my hands a iittle behind the hoods...

VeloVT

08-14-2008, 05:56 AM

Can you have a fitting done at the shop? That way they can try some different stems on during the fitting, and have you pedal for a little while on the trainer and see what feels best.

elk

08-14-2008, 08:55 AM

i was afraid that was the answer!!! not really really :rolleyes: afraid....

i stayed up late looking at Ritchey and Thomson stems........

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 10:36 AM

i stayed up late looking at Ritchey and Thomson stems........

Do you already have an idea of what angle (on your adjustable stem) makes you feel more comfortable?

elk

08-14-2008, 11:32 AM

Do you already have an idea of what angle (on your adjustable stem) makes you feel more comfortable?

I've been riding at 90...just moved it to about 10 and I'll try that for awhile.

I WILL reign in that rare but stubborn trickle of impulsiveness I have.
unless i find the bar at a great price....:D

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 12:12 PM

I've been riding at 90...just moved it to about 10 and I'll try that for awhile.

90... you mean zero, aka horizontal, right?
:confused:

And which bar at a great price :) are you thinking of the FSA bar, the wing pro?

elk

08-14-2008, 04:14 PM

yes to both.
horizontal...
and the FSA wing pro compact in size 40 alloy...:D

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 04:21 PM

Ahi, too bad I don't have that one, I'm trying to keep cleaning the closet and adding bars to the free gear section :)

So, let's see if we can figure out something more about the wrists... you've been riding with a 100mm stem @ 0 degrees, and now you are trying 10. Where exactly was the wrist pain, and did you feel it more when riding on the hoods, on the top, or in the drops?

elk

08-14-2008, 04:29 PM

actually I think my stem is 80mm long...it's a Ritchey adjustable.

let's see...I think riding the top was the worst...the hoods--with relaxed hands and my weight more on the heel of my hand--- the best, and the primary pain is at the base of my thumbs...which may also be partially due to the mac laptop...but it is noticably worse when riding. knock wood...i have no other pain issues with the bike.

i can find the photo of my pony for ya

elk

08-14-2008, 04:35 PM

here she is....my little Morgan horse....:D before I swapped the bars, angled the stem up a few degrees and got brake shims:

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 04:39 PM

Where is your saddle compared to your handlebar? And how is your weight distributed, do you feel like most of the weight ends up on your forearms/wrists/hands?
Never mind, ignore the question - I see the photo now...
:)

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 04:46 PM

Did the shop fit you at that saddle height and top tube length? In other words, are both the correct setup for your leg/torso/arms measurements?

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 05:02 PM

Well, here's what I'm thinking... and why I ask all of these questions... ;D
My first impression is that you should be moving the opposite way and try to bring your bars down instead of up...
Here's a disclaimer... :) I am NOT an expert or anything, and I haven't seen you on the bike, so take it with some caution... end of disclaimer ;)
So anyway, the first impression is that your stem is way too high on top of the steerer tube. The first thing I would try is to move some of the spacers on TOP of the stem.
So in practice, take out the headset, take out the stem, and take two of the spacers out (I can see three in the photo). Then put the stem back, and put the other two spacers on top of the stem, and then put back the headset.
That way you would have the saddle a little higher than the stem, and you can lower your back a little more. What that would do is bring your shoulder closer to the handlebar. That allows your elbows to bend, and relax. With your elbows and arms relaxed, the weight would be more distributed on your seat and pedals, and less on your hands. Less weight on the hands/wrists - less chance for tension and for a posture that would cause pain.
Some other benefits could come from this: for example the ability to ride in the drops as well, without strain and therefore without pain. Also, your back would be a little flatter, and that makes you more aerodynamic, so you can cycle with less effort.
What do you think? And, most important, do you have a picture of you on your bike, showing your riding position?

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 05:08 PM

Sorry, I'm posting in bites and pieces tonight...
Another doubt I have is the handlebars - maybe something with a deeper drop would help? Sometimes we try to solve reach problems by buying short/shallow handlebars - while truly we should try to work on the fit first, and then think of swapping equipment.
Do you have different bars now?

elk

08-14-2008, 07:02 PM

interesting...i was operating under the impression that the saddle should be level with the bars or a little bit lower for more comfort....your eye sees the opposite problem!

I do have different bars on now...it was a small hands issue...and the ergo bend on the ritcheys (in te photo above) made it near impossible to reach the brakes in the drops. So I got something close in size but not ergo....ergo (:p) the Cinelli Little Wing that's on there now. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=21451&category=636

I'm not sure it was the best choice, only because the bar seems cramped and narrow in comparison...which could also be due to the clumsy placement of gel pads on them...but I do miss the little sweep back on the Ritcheys.
I also neglected to note the placement of the brifters when I changed...so I wonder if some of the increase in hand pain is due to that. And my plan is to take the pads out from under the tape.

When I went looking for a steel road bike I was helped by a guy in one of the LBS who is a fitter...and he basically told me I needed a frame under 48" with a TT less than 52. This made me realize I had passed over several bikes I thought were too small (???the 50 had felt too big and I assumed the next size down would be too small...why? IDK) Went back to another store and tried the 47cm Aurora and it felt perfect. I bought it at a co-op without too much fitting advice at all.

I did feel confident in what the fiter had told me, and had studied the numbers enough to feel secure buying this bike. Friends with a great deal of experience have told me its a good fit....HOWEVER.....no one has studied me on the bike and given me enough info to make informed choices about components....

wow...i have a lot to say on this subject!!!:)

i have a photo from the winter of me on the original set up. I'll eat supper and then go get them!:

elk

08-14-2008, 07:32 PM

here are the photos, Doc

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 07:35 PM

The cinelli you have is actually a nice compromise - where are your brake/shifters positioned now on the new bar?

elk

08-14-2008, 08:01 PM

freshly shot...with the new angle on the stem, and my new tape.

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 08:04 PM

here are the photos, Doc

See, that is sort of what I feared...
From the pictures, again my impression is that the handlebar is way too high. And of course your body tries to compensate by sitting as upright as it can - while still trying to reach the bars. You end up in this hybrid positioning with a pretty steep angle on the seat, and your arms stretched out to reach the handlebars. So you are sitting upright on the bike with the arms basically extended. That means that whatever weight (or tension) is distributed to the upper torso does not get absorbed by the 'natural springs' (elbows), but falls directly on the wrist and hand. That is pretty much a recipe for wrist pain right there. :(
And this is without considering that maybe you would need fitting of the position of the brifters, and stem length, etc...

I would start with making sure that the saddle is in the right position for you. I can't decide if it's really in the right place from the photo because of the long pants (I can't tell if your leg has a little bit of an angle on the lowest endpoint, or if it's stretched out...)
If you have a stationary trainer and a friend/husband/relative with a little patience ;) you can get them to help in the setup process. Check saddle height first, and get a helper with a plumb line (a thread with a washer or screw at the end as weight would work too) to check the fore/aft position. Once you are sure that your seat is in the right place, You can work on the bars. Just bring the stem back to 0 degrees (it's adjustable so it should be easy), and swap a couple of spacers on top of it to lower the handlebar.
At this point, with the bars lowered, you should be able to come down more and flatten your back - and so your elbows would be bent and your wrist/hands relaxed. From this position, if the stem length is correct for you (80mm may turn out to be a tad short once you come down) and if the brifters are placed correctly, you will be able to comfortably reach your brake levers/shifters from both the hoods and the drops. It should not cause pain because any workload should be absorbed by the elbows. And really your arms should not bear much of the weight at all.
Once you are in the correct positioning, theis is where you can check the placement of the brifters on the handlebar, the angle of the handlebar, and the stem length (and angle, in case you need to change it) for optimal reach and minimum effort/tension. If still the bars do not feel right, then maybe you need different drop/reach combination, i.e. a new bar. But really that Cinelli is a medium compromise, so I really doubt that it could be the source of the problem.

Not sure if this whole thing makes any sense - it's always easier to do it than to describe it ;) But seriously, from the photos the strain on the wrist seem to be coming from being too upright. In general, the upright position may be comfortable on a cruiser (big wing bars, moustache, albatross, etc) - but it cannot really be comfortable on a road bike because it's actually kind of going against the geometry of the road bike with drop bars...
Hope this helps!
:)

ilima

08-14-2008, 08:05 PM

Easton EC90 Equipe Pro. Got mine from Sierra Trading Post, but they're going fast (if you take a 42 or 44 c-c). They require a stem with 2 bolts, though.

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/,57325_Easton-EC90-Pro-Bend-Carbon-Road-Handlebar-26-mm.html

These Ritchey WCS bars are alu and don't require a 2-bolt stem, but not quite as short a reach & drop as the Eastons.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=18243&category=636

TxDoc

08-14-2008, 08:08 PM

freshly shot...with the new angle on the stem, and my new tape.

Niiice colors! matching tape and saddle, wow!
So yes, I confirm my pevious post, the main suggestions are to 1-bring the stem back to 0, 2-swap two of the three spacers on top of the stem, 3-redo the fitting (saddle height, fore/aft, stem adjustments) on the trainer with someone that can look at you and help, 4-try and test ride to se how you feel.
It does take a while to find your optimal fit, and you need either a pro fitting service or some experimentation (trial and error, really) - so you are on the good track :)

elk

08-14-2008, 08:18 PM

thank you for your eyes and your suggestions, ...I will give them a try...

I LOVE that Easton bar...but a 42 is just too big...if it was 40 I would've bought a month ago!!

The Ritchey is quite like what I have without the ergo bend...now that I have the shims, I could probably use them again...

but I do love looking at bars:D

elk

08-15-2008, 12:53 PM

i moved the bar down one spacer (i'd rather go slowly...if i need to move it 2 i will) and will work on the saddle H and F/A when I get mr elk's eyes later....

I don't know yet how it will FEEL...but I must say she looks rather sleeker...:cool:

HIS new bike...the volpe should be ready soon...can't wait!! (the LBS is raising his bars to level with his saddle)

wish it wasn't QUITE so hot...want to check it all out!!! on a longish ride...

BleeckerSt_Girl

08-15-2008, 02:41 PM

For whatever it's worth, I do not agree with lowering your bars, Elk.
The Jamis is a touring bike, not a racing bike. I think doing this will open yet another can of worms and compound your problems even further.

Ideally, a good LBS could help you with dialing in your bike fit. Please consider it.
But in the meantime....

The new picture looks good to me, and I hope the shims are helping you brake reach problem that you started out with. I love your description of your Jamis as a little Morgan horse- it looks just like one!! :p

I see that you have your saddle all the way back- that's good for now and will help keep your weight off your hands. But I think you have your bars tilted upwards too much. A good starting place is to have the tops of the bars be somewhere near level.
If the new bars feel too cramped and narrow, they could well be causing your hand pain, so possibly just put your old comfier bars back on? You wanted to get rid of the bar padding anyway, so.... :o
On the old pictures, it almost looks to me that your leg is straightening out too straight on the pedal downstroke. If your leg straightens all the way when pedaling, then you should lower your seat a bit until your leg 'almost' straightens. Another indication of a too high seat setting is if you find your hips are rocking from side to side as you pedal. Ideally your hips should be relatively still while pedaling.

One thing we tend to do while riding touring bikes is to sit up straight and straighten our arms and hold ourselves up by leaning on our hands. Then we just let our stomachs sag down too and add more to the weight on our hands. Yes this can cause significant wrist/hand/shoulder pain. You can fix this without lowering your bars by breaking the sagging-back straight-arm habit posture. Concentrate on tipping your pelvis (by tipping your tailbone DOWN and your pubic bone UP) and curving your lower back more. (this will have added benefits of less pressure on your girly parts) As TxDoc noted, once your lower back is more curved (actually just less saggy) you can start training your core stomach muscles to hold you up instead of your weight on your hands.
I know this because I worked on correcting this posture habit in myself when riding my Rivendell touring bike with the bars the same height as the saddle. It really works if you keep reminding your body as you ride. That's my opinion based on my own experience on two touring geometry road bikes,
Remember, your bike is not a chair. Don't sit on it like you were just watching tv. Float over your bike and be one with it. You are essentially walking and moving inside a marvelous machine. :)

VeloVT

08-15-2008, 03:44 PM

OK, in full disclosure I have not read ALL of TXDOC's and Lisa's suggestions, because my attention span is short tonight.

My impression from your photos:
--you have too much setback on your seat.
--I agree with Lisa that your seat looks a tad high.
--I also agree with Lisa that in the NEW handlebar pics, your handlebar may be more comfortable rotated down a bit -- BUT, in the photos of you ON the bike, it looks like you could put the hoods up a teeny bit higher, in that second picture your wrists look bent downward a little too much.
--I don't think you need to lower your handlebars, per se, but I do think you look a little cramped in the front end/upper body. I think you should consider a LONGER stem that puts you out farther, but not necessarily lower. Remember this is in conjunction with bringing your seat forward a bit.. What Lisa says about using your core and legs and not holding yourself up with your arms/by locking your shoulders is really important too, though, and if you increase your reach you will have to be even more conscious of this.

My two or three cents that you can take or leave :D.

Your bike is very pretty. Growing up in Vermont, and being horse-crazy as a young girl, I've always had a place in my heart for Morgans :).

I think you should schedule a real fitting at LBS even if you have to pay for it. It is worth it.

TxDoc

08-15-2008, 04:19 PM

HIS new bike...the volpe should be ready soon...can't wait!!

Wow, so he got the new volpe... PICTURES???
:)

BleeckerSt_Girl

08-15-2008, 04:31 PM

Wow, so he got the new volpe... PICTURES???
:)

Here's the thread about the Volpe:
http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showthread.php?t=25676

TxDoc

08-15-2008, 04:36 PM

Here's the thread about the Volpe

Thanks! how did I miss a thread with photos of a new bike, aahhhh!!!
;)

elk

08-15-2008, 05:02 PM

No volpe yet....but he's open until 7 this evening so maybe within the next hour???? oh well....it's too darn hot to even go outside!!

I love having your observations....all of them.... it's a matter of SEEING clearly and understanding how all the parts work as a whole....

I 'm not averse to getting a fitting...I just feel SO close to fine on the bike that I want to try and monkey a bit with it (yes, lisa, s l o w l y) ...while i'm looking for someone i would want to go to.

I have become quite mindful of my posture on the bike, remembering the conversations about the pelvis as a bowl...and making myself aware of the 3 pts of contact as I ride... i really DO listen...:p

My leg is bent a little on the downstroke and there is no rocking of the hips...I originally fixed the height to where my straight down leg was straight with my HEEL on the pedal...and I don't think I need to lower the seat...but I'll check it again as i revisit the fore/aft.

My saddle is actually pretty much in the middle of the post...maybe a little more rail showing behind.

SO...I do want to try a ride with the bars lowered that one spacer...it puts them level with the saddle.
I examined the level of the saddle closely and I think it's tilted maybe a cm or 2 nose down...so when I lift that I could also bring it forward a bit....although I DID bring it forward a little a few weeks ago and also rotated my bar down a little
SORRY the chronology of the pictures is just wacky....

I should just look for someone to do a mini fitting....just not a 2 hour dissection.
I'll post a call out for a recommendation here in PDX.

thanks!

mayanorange

08-16-2008, 03:37 PM

Mini fitting sounds like it'd help- that's what I ended up with. I also felt super close, but couldn't figure out the nuance of which way to go. LBS offered seat and handlebar fitting for $50- he did seat height, fore/aft, then hooked me up with the wing pro narrower handlebar and worked on stem fitting. Still waiting for a new stem to get me just right, but it has made a huge difference. I also asked him all the angles he was setting things at and why, then went home and fit my hubby on our trainer a lot closer than he was. The LBS guy can just eyeball the handlebars a lot easier- I think I put DH in a better position, but maybe not 100% perfect.

TxDoc

08-16-2008, 04:52 PM

I should just look for someone to do a mini fitting....just not a 2 hour dissection.

Hey the "2 hour dissection" is actually a lot of fun, and if you have a pro fitter you can learn a whole lot!!!
Good luck!
:)

elk

08-16-2008, 05:02 PM

I SENT IN A QUERY TO (sorry capslock) Michael Sylvester...so I'm on my way...

as far as handlebars go...would I be crazy to put my Ritchey Biomax bars BACK on? Now that i have the shims I bet they'd be great...and I miss that backsweep on the top that gave me more room...

And then I might sell the Cinellis which would be great for small hands and no interrupter brakes.

My Brooks tape !!!!:eek:...o jeez....i hope it's good for another wrap or 2!!!

I'd love to get the FSA wing compacts...but i'd need a new stem (mine is a 26.)
and I should wait until I get fit so if I need a longer or shorter one I'll know what to get!

BleeckerSt_Girl

08-16-2008, 05:58 PM

as far as handlebars go...would I be crazy to put my Ritchey Biomax bars BACK on? Now that i have the shims I bet they'd be great...and I miss that backsweep on the top that gave me more room...

Why would you be crazy to put back bars that were comfortable for you to begin with? :cool:

I think if you are careful, the Brooks leather tape should be ok- it's leather, after all. Just be gentle and don't stretch it too hard. If you get rid of the gel padding it should give you an inch or two more tape to work with.

I agree with you in thinking to wait until after a fitting before buying any new stem. You never know what they might recommend. :)

elk

08-16-2008, 09:22 PM

BleeckerSt_Girl

08-17-2008, 03:48 AM

hey Lisa i was just looking a your new Luna pictures...are your bars wrapped with grey leather? what are you using at the ends (on the top)? Twine?

your seat looks higher than your bars...was that a gradual shift for you?
(I love yr saddle...looks well loved.)

Hi Elk,
I actually painted my handlebar tape to match my saddlebag. (Like you, I am a visual artist and am handy at paint/color stuff).
I started a whole thread about it here, since I thought it might be of interest to others:
http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showthread.php?t=25700
I have ridden about 100 miles on them and they seem very durable.
Thanks for asking- I'm quite proud of how it turned out! I too think it looks like gray leather. Margo at Luna said it looked sweet.

As to seat height- my seat is the height it needs to be for my leg length. (remember, you shouldn't set your saddle height according to anything to do with your bars. Saddle height is either right or not right, pretty much based on your leg length)
As to the handlebar/stem height- Margo, the builder, set my stem and bars at that height based on my body measurements, my lack of back/neck problems with my other bike, and my riding style and goals. I vowed to myself that I wouldn't change anything about how she set it for the first two months til my body adapted to the new bike, and it seems now after 600 miles that I am quite comfortable on it exactly the way she set it up.

I'm still quite upright compared to racing bikes. :)
It's funny, you ride along feeling just as though you are bent way down like Lance Armstrong or something....then you catch a glimpse of yourself in a store window reflection and it looks like you're sitting bolt upright! :D :D
I have learned to relax and curl my lower back and keep my pelvis tipped with my tailbone down more. For me it's not arching the whole back, just curling the lower back and stomach region that is good. The curled lower back thing really helps me keep my weight floating evenly between my feet, butt and hands...and that keeps me comfortable.

elk

08-23-2008, 11:33 PM

BleeckerSt_Girl

08-24-2008, 03:31 AM

I did lower my bars one spacer re TxDoc's suggestion..and although today was a rather short ride (under 10miles all up hill and then all down) I noticed that my hands didn't hurt...and in fact, I felt the pressure on them was much relieved...

I still have my fitting next week...but I do like the bar lowered a bit...who woulda thunk it!!!!! ;)thanks Doc!

But you just changed back to your original comfier bars, eliminated the bar gel fat pads, and added brake shims, right? (correct me if I'm wrong) Hard to really tell then what change or combination of these four changes are making your hands happier. A longer ride will be more telling, but good that you are not in pain! :)
I should note that my new bike has slightly lower bars, and I like them that way. ;)

elk

08-24-2008, 01:57 PM

I haven't gone back to the old bars yet...still running the CInellis...but I did take the gel off the top. I think the lower position is working....my legs were sore last night...but they were burning like hell fire getting up the steep hills yesterday....so i think that's an in/out of shape thing.

I think I should have the bigger shims put in the brake...yr guy sent me two sizes and my guy put the smaller (thinner) one in...honestly I don't notice that much differance...in ease of braking....:confused:

BleeckerSt_Girl

08-24-2008, 03:24 PM

I think I should have the bigger shims put in the brake...yr guy sent me two sizes and my guy put the smaller (thinner) one in...honestly I don't notice that much differance...in ease of braking....:confused:

Bummer. Why did he do that? The little shims aren't really big enough to make a big difference. The big shims work GREAT for me.

elk

08-24-2008, 04:16 PM

IDK.....he said let's start with these.....

oh and BTW...Mr e HAS a hybrid, a Trek 7000, and he likes it...but doesn;t LOVE it...which is what started all this. sigh. Lookswise, he really should have this:

http://clevercycles.com/store/?c=web2.67&product=2008+Electra+Amsterdam+Royal+8%2C+black%2C+mens

but on our hills?????????????

BleeckerSt_Girl

08-24-2008, 05:12 PM

oh and BTW...Mr e HAS a hybrid, a Trek 7000, and he likes it...but doesn;t LOVE it...which is what started all this. sigh. Lookswise, he really should have this:

So... figuring out WHY he doesn't love his hybrid might help pick a good new bike for him? Perhaps his hybrid is old and way heavier than the new hybrids are today? Perhaps it's got heavy/knobby tires that you can change out to zippy sleek ones? ....My DH totally revamped his 10 year old steel Trek Hybrid and it's pretty snappy now. He put new higher gearing for hills on it, Brooks saddle, nice bars, slick tires....

It's best to start picking a bike by first deciding what kind of bike will suit your riding style, the local terrain, what you plan to use the bike for, your riding abilities, and your goals. Eliminate all bikes that don't meet these criteria, no matter how cool they look. That will narrow things down quite a bit. Once you have a certain type of bike in mind, then you can look for ones that look appealing within the criteria you've set out.