How much should bike maintenance cost per year?

[lauraelmore1033]

So, I’m wondering how much y’all spend per year on bike maintenance? My “new” bike (purchased last july, I think) just went into the shop for it’s 3000 mile checkup (really only has 2700 miles on it). The estimate for the recommended replacement of chain, cassette, front rings and brake pads is over $300 (almost a quarter of the original cost of the bike). This will also be the 3rd chain I’ve replaced (at $27 a pop) and the 2nd new set of brake pads (at $16 a pop). The P.O.S. tires that came with the bike had to be replaced almost immediately with Armadillo tires (due to an excess of flats, say 8-10 at $5 a pop) , and then again when they were trashed as some a$$ hat just had to sprinkle wood screws in the bike lane for me to run over. Adding in the cost of a full tune up ($65) and lube and wash and such, this all adds up to nearly $600 for the year so far. That’s half the cost of the bike! Am I doing something wrong? What kinds of costs do you ladies incur? I guess it’s still cheaper than maintaining a car…

[Blueberry]

So, I’m wondering how much y’all spend per year on bike maintenance? My “new” bike (purchased last july, I think) just went into the shop for it’s 3000 mile checkup (really only has 2700 miles on it). The estimate for the recommended replacement of chain, cassette, front rings and brake pads is over $300 (almost a quarter of the original cost of the bike). This will also be the 3rd chain I’ve replaced (at $27 a pop) and the 2nd new set of brake pads (at $16 a pop). The P.O.S. tires that came with the bike had to be replaced almost immediately with Armadillo tires (due to an excess of flats, say 8-10 at $5 a pop) , and then again when they were trashed as some a$$ hat just had to sprinkle wood screws in the bike lane for me to run over. Adding in the cost of a full tune up ($65) and lube and wash and such, this all adds up to nearly $600 for the year so far. That’s half the cost of the bike! Am I doing something wrong? What kinds of costs do you ladies incur? I guess it’s still cheaper than maintaining a car…

That seems very frequent for chain replacement - mine usually make it ~1500-2000 miles before they're nearing the danger area. If you're replacing the chains that often, your chainrings and cassette shouldn't need work. That also seems quick to be replacing brake pads - but I wouldn't skimp there. I lube and wash my own bike, so no costs for that:) Hard to say what the average is for me - riding is spread out over ~4 bikes + the tandem, and my mileage recently has been sporadic at best.

CA

[kat_h]

How much of that cost is for the parts and how much is labour? Would you be comfortable with doing some of the work yourself?

[SadieKate]

Who is telling you that you need to replace the chain, cassette, CRANKS(?), etc. at 3,000 miles. This is ridiculous. Why have you already replaced the chain so frequently? A dirty chain or cassette attracts dirt and wears faster, but two times already?

Each flat costs you $5? Um, have you tried patching the tubes? Wood screws could decimate most tires so flats after that are not surprising. If we are motivated, we change the tube on the road and patch the old tube in the comforts of home.

[SouthernBelle]

I've still got my original chain and it has probably 45-5000 miles on it. Every once in a while I'll have them measure it and otherwise check it out. I certainly have no problems shifting. In January I had a good maintenance done. Got new cables, etc. I think that ran me around $100. I'll go through anywhere from 5-10 tubes a year plus a set of tires.

Your costs sound way out of bounds. & I really don't understand the need for a new chain and cassette very often.

[indysteel]

I'm with Sadie Kate on this one. I hate to say this, but I think someone's trying to take advantage of you. I doubt very much that you need to replace much of anything at 2700 miles, and I'm surprised that you've already gone through multiple chains and brake pads. Assuming you're regularly cleaning your drivetrain, you should get more life out of it than they're leading you to believe.

If I were you, I'd think twice about patronizing a shop that tried to sell me a bill of goods. I have multiple shops to select from in my area and I have learned over time (and sometimes the hard way) which shops--and which mechanics in each shop--to trust.

In the very least, I'd challenge them a bit on what they're telling you. With that in mind, it might be worth your while to gain some understanding of what to look for in terms of wear with respect to your bike's components so that you can exercise some independent judgment as to whether it's time to replace or rebuild something. I've just been doing some research myself on that here and on www.roadbikereview.com, and there's a lot of helpful information. You just need to do a few searches and a bit of reading.....

Good luck.

[smilingcat]

You are replacing far more frequently than necessary.

Even a semi-serious racer type who tend to stress the equipment will not be changing the chains that often. A skinny hyper-glide chain used on 10speed cogs (dura ace, ultegra) will need replacement maybe every 2000-3000 mile.

If you don't ride through mud, through sand on the beach, your chain should last you more than 3000 miles. A recreational rider could probably get away for 4000 miles or more.

No need to replace the chain ring!

brake pad should be replaced when they are worn or after two years or so. time limit is because the rubber compund on the pads gets physically old but I've regularly kept them for like 4 years at a time with many many more thousands of miles.

Your 2000-3000 miles per year is still considered recreational, so go to some other bike shop for a tune up. Have them check the "stretch" of the chain. It's probably fine. If it is fine, no need to replace the clusters or the chain ring.

sheesh!! :mad: taking advantage of you!
Smilingcat

[aicabsolut]

That is ridiculous. If you wipe down and relube your chain, um, ever, it should last you a pretty long time. If you're replacing this often, your cassette and rings should be pristine! Maybe your cassette could be worn if you're bad about doing your own maintenance, but your rings? Seriously?

I'm on my original chain and cassette, and it's been over 5000 miles. I had the shop check it in late October when it went in for its belated 1-year. Fine. Checked again at the end of March when I transferred components to a new frame. Fine. I even measured it last week because I was having some shifting issues, and I wanted to be sure that it wasn't the chain's fault. Fine. I do long rides. I race. I do, however, take ridiculously good care of my drivetrain, especially since I encounter a fair amount of sand and grit on my training rides. The chain is starting to look a bit worn in a few spots, so I will probably have it checked again next month.

Brake pads all depend on the wear. My shop usually just throws them in with the typical tuneup. So far, all of my tunes have been free. I got a year of service free with the first bike, and when I transferred components to the new bike, they checked everything, replaced pads, etc. as part of the build cost. I have only had to buy new cables and housing, which I do about once a year, unless they get damaged in a crash.

I've seen tuneups that are more expensive than your base $65 price, but they will at least include new brake pads.

I would find a new shop ASAP.

[OakLeaf]

What are you doing as far as chain maintenance? I suppose it's possible you could be wearing them out that quick if you're not regularly cleaning and lubing them, especially if your bike's stored in a damp garage? Have you measured the chains yourself before you got them replaced?

I just measured my chain at 2500 miles and it was showing some wear, but not quite ready for replacement. After this weekend (heavy rain, then 30 miles on a dry chain), I probably will ask the LBS to replace it when I bring it in for a tuneup in a couple of weeks.

Chainrings every fourth chain is probably about right, but it's the four chains in 2700 miles that doesn't sound right. Are the teeth of your chainrings worn?

How is it that a flat costs you $5? You're not replacing the tube every time you flat, are you? Get a patch kit!

Are your brake pads at the limit of their pad material?

You should learn to check for wear yourself. Not just so you don't get taken advantage of, but so you do know to replace things before they become a hazard or a bigger problem.

[Grog]

The others have covered a lot of the points, however I'd like to add this:

I love bike shops and I want them to remain open, thus they need to make some money. I understand why they offer "packaged" tune-ups to their clients, but I'll never take one.

Here is a chart, with my comments, from a local Vancouver bike shop that I usually find a bit expensive for their services and products:



Blessing: $15.00

Sometimes you just need someone to have a look at your bike and make sure it’s safe to ride, especially if it’s been sitting for a while!

* We inspect and inflate the tires to the proper pressure and lube your chain
* Do a complete safety inspection
* Make sure the brakes are in good working order; the wheels aren’t loose; the handlebars are straight; the gears are working; the handlebars and stem are tight; and that nothing is broken!


I can pump up my tires and lube my chain, thanks.

I can do a safety inspection, check my brakes, wheels, handlebars, gears, etc.



Basic Tune: $29.99

Everything in the Blessing plus:

* Check and adjust the headset
* Check and adjust all bearings
* Inspect all cables and housings
* Inspect and adjust gears
* Inspect and adjust brakes
* Inspect rims and spokes and true wheels on the bike
* Inspect and tighten all fasteners
* Clean and lube chain


If my headset is loose, I'll ask them to fix it if I am worried I am not doing it right.

All of my bearings are sealed.

I can inspect my own cables and housings. Generally if it's not braking or shifting properly I'll look into that.

If my gears or brakes are out of wack, I'll ask them to do that. It's $6 for gears and $4 for brakes.

I inspect my wheels quickly before every ride, and in detail when I clean my bike. I pay attention when I ride. If it's untrue I'll ask them to true it (variable cost but seldom more than $15 if I've noticed it early enough - and it doesn't happen more than once every other year - but I'm a very light rider). Sometimes I'll be in for gears or something like that and the shop guy will say "I think your front wheel needs to be trued," and I'll say "go ahead!"

I can inspect and tighten my fasterners.

Geez, I can clean and lube my bike, too!!!



Comprehensive: $49.99

Everything in the Blessing and Basic Tune plus:

* Inspect and adjust bottom bracket
* Inspect and adjust front and rear hubs
* Wipe your entire bike clean
* True wheels on the truing stand


More things I can do myself, except the wheel truing, which I covered above.

I've taken a couple of days of bike mechanics classes and I can either do things myself or know what I need done, so I NEVER get a packaged tune-up. I understand why it exists, but I think cyclists that ride the kind of miles you do should get things piecemeal instead, as they need them.

This being said, the mechanics class was really helpful in educating me about those things... and reading dear Team Estrogen members' insights, too!! Also: patronizing a good bike shop regularly, learning from the shop people, and discussing with them will teach you a lot... and teach them that you're taking this seriously and are not to be abused with over-pricing.

[Crankin]

It does seem excessive. I replace my chain once a season and I ride between 2500 and 3000 miles a year, at least for the past 3 years. On the other hand, I am not really good about cleaning my bike (I know). However, I don't ride in the rain or seem to be in an area where there's lots of crap on the road. I look at the tires and pump them every time I ride and I have had one flat in eight years (not counting the one where I ran over a nail on a century and decimated the tire, not just the tube). My husband does all the maintenance and I keep a look out for anything that seems weird with my bike.
I would not use a patched tube. Just my opinion. We keep a supply at home and buy them a bunch at a time, from the evil internet source. I always have 2 in my bag.

[indysteel]

Another bit of information I'd add. I've heard several rules of thumb when it comes to when to replacing the cassette. Some shops will tell you that you should replace the cassette every time you replace the chain. Others will admit that, with proper cleaning, a cassette will generally last through 2 to 3 chains. The best advice I've read is to change the chain first. If it doesn't skip on any of the cogs when under load, then don't replace the cassette. If it does skip, then it's time to replace it. In other words, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. That sounds like good advice to me, although I'd appreciate any other words of wisdom....

[lauraelmore1033]

Thanks for all the replies. I guess it's good to get an idea what every body else does and to see that my experience is so different.

As far as replacing the chain goes, I've been told that you should change it every 1000 miles, and have come to believe this to be true since I usually start to get a hint of shifting troubles (chattering, grumbling, skipping) after about 900 miles. The troubles will get worse, and when I bring it in to the shop, a check with the chain check tool confirms that the chain is stretched. I am aware that road grit (and too much lube) can cause excess wear to the drive train, so I do take pains to clean, lube and wipe the chain after pretty much every ride. I suspect that the problem in this area has to do with being a heavier than average rider on hillier than average terrain.

This would also apply to brake wear. I can testify that the brake pads were worn down to the nubs at the times they were replaced. I think they are probably softer pads than I had on my other bike (which didn't need to have the pads replaced), but these brakes work soooo much better; I had to resort to the "flinstones" method of braking (with the feet on the ground) in order to fully stop with the others.

As for the cassette, I've also been told (from sources independent from my LBS) that after 3 chain changes, it should be replaced. I believe that as well, since I was experiencing chain slippage and shifting troubles in certain (favorite)gears. The mechanic wasn't sure if the front rings actually needed to be replaced, so the estimate to replace them was a "worst cast scenario".

It's possible I've over estimated some costs like tubes (and yes, SK, I could patch them since I still have them) and have forgotten yet other things I spend money on. I don't think my LBS is taking advantage of me. I'm guessing some of the extra expense is just the cost of being an extra heavy rider...

[Blueberry]

In light of what others have said....You don't have to replace the chain rings every time you replace the cassette. They're usually much slower to wear, and may not need replacement for many, many miles. (Edited to add - looks like you already covered this - posted at the same time).

I'm heavy as well, and still don't have to replace chains that often. Strange.

CA

[lauraelmore1033]

yean, Grog, that $65 tune up did seem excessive. It did include truing both wheels and replacing the chain, and did fix the skipping gear problem I was having so I was just happy to have everything running smoothly again.

[lauraelmore1033]

In light of what others have said....You don't have to replace the chain rings every time you replace the cassette. They're usually much slower to wear, and may not need replacement for many, many miles. (Edited to add - looks like you already covered this - posted at the same time).

I'm heavy as well, and still don't have to replace chains that often. Strange.

CA

Yes, very strange. And you do a lot of climbing too! This winter WAS pretty bad as far as wet, nasty, grit on the roads went, though.

[OakLeaf]

I don't know - a tuneup at my Ohio LBS is $100, which includes truing the wheels, fresh grease, cable adjustments and inspection. It's got to be at least an hour and a half work, even with sealed bearings. I get that the sealed-bearing crowd are subsidizing the ball-bearing types with a flat rate, and I do my own cable adjustments, but I still consider that very reasonable.

(On the other end of the spectrum is the Florida LBS where I bought my bike, where you get lifetime free "tune-ups" with a bike purchase, but they're limited to cable adjustments and IMO are just a way to keep the customers ignorant of maintenance and get them in the door.)

[Irulan]

at minimum, you can invest in a chain checker tool, about $12-25 and you can check your own chain wear.

[Grog]

On the "bike cleaning" front...

For some reason this past winter my dear, sweet partner started cleaning his winter bike's drivetrain after every ride. Okay, the bike is perhaps past its prime ((with over 50,000 winter kilometers on it and countless summer kilometers) but I think that the near-daily cleaning has totally ruined the bike. Basically what it did was throw a lot more grit into the moving parts.

I am hesitant on the course of action to recommend, but it would definitely involve only wiping off the bike and parts after every ride, and waiting until it's dry to apply lube, and probably a bit less often than you'd be tempted to.

Maybe if your drivetrain starts complaining after 900 miles it needs a good clean and a tuneup, but a whole new chain? I find it really hard to believe, no matter how heavy you are... Perhaps you could consider examining your riding habits, too? (Having your chain crossed over the gears, shifting under load, etc...) I don't get it!

[lauraelmore1033]

at minimum, you can invest in a chain checker tool, about $12-25 and you can check your own chain wear.

Yeah, I've been meaning to do that. And the replacement chain might be cheaper from Performance too. I'll have to check.

[lauraelmore1033]

Perhaps you could consider examining your riding habits, too? (Having your chain crossed over the gears, shifting under load, etc...) I don't get it!

Hmmm. I don't really cross chain but dh HAS criticized me for sometimes making "hard shifts".
but...
I've noticed on group training rides and organized rides that I don't make as many nasty grindy shifts as the riders around me...

[aicabsolut]

What lube do you use? I find that, depending on the conditions, a lube that is too wet or too dry or too whatever will affect how the drivetrain feels. It will sound and feel like it's skipping, but really it's not. For example: I liked using ProLink because it seemed to get the chain cleaner easier (I don't use a cleaner/degreaser generally, just a cleaning lube, and when in sandy climates, I'll occasionally use mild pressure from a hose). However, in cold dry weather, ProLink worked pretty well. Any other time, the drivetrain felt like crap. A waxier cleaning lube, Rockn'Roll Gold is now my favorite, though it will take a few applications to get the chain very clean. It is thin--much thinner than something like White Lightning, so I do have to use more of it and take care of my chain more often. In addition to wiping down and relubing the chain after most rides, I will take a brush to the cassette and be sure to wipe grit off the rings as more goo gets shed from the chain. I am a lighter weight rider, but I do a variety of shifting over rolling terrain, in traffic, and in races. With this approach, the only skipping or grinding I'll feel is when I need to make a slight cable adjustment or when the chain has gotten noticeably dirty. In fact, I got into my obsessive compulsive drivetrain maintenance after locking up the chainrings a couple of times (chain got wedged) with a mildly dirty chain. I just love how much more smoothly the bike runs. I don't think that proper regular maintenance will destroy your chain. Daily degreasing and using harsher cleaners? Maybe. A cleaning lube? Doubtful. It may appear that more grit is flying around, but really, it's the chain shedding all the grit. Like I said, my chain has survived over 5k miles. I'm getting nervous about it now, but the shop (and my ruler) keep telling me it's ok.

What chain are you using? SRAM makes pretty durable chains. 105 or Ultegra level Shimano chains are also good (what I have). DA ones can be a little more fragile. I just have a hard time believing that your chains are getting that bad after only 1000 miles. I can see that by chain #3 you are starting to do some damage to a couple of cogs in the cassette. But damn, that still seems excessive. I mean, there are plenty of heavy guys out there in the mountains getting a few thousand miles out of their chains.

[KnottedYet]

Boeshield works nicely here in the soggy PNW.

[OakLeaf]

Pedro's Chainj. Vegetable oil-based, no toxic mineral spirits, doesn't attract too much grit and really stays on in the wet.

Easy chain check, no tools required: shift onto the big chainring, grab the chain at the front of the ring and pull the chain away from the chainring. If you can expose a whole tooth, replace the chain.

[tjf9]

My LBS is giving me the 1000 mile guideline for chain replacement as well. The guy at my shop says its the 10 speeds - the narrower chain wears more quickly. My shop measured the chain and said it was getting worn - perhaps their stretch allowance is lower than necessary?

[lauraelmore1033]

What lube do you use? I find that, depending on the conditions, a lube that is too wet or too dry or too whatever will affect how the drivetrain feels. It will sound and feel like it's skipping, but really it's not. For example: I liked using ProLink because it seemed to get the chain cleaner easier (I don't use a cleaner/degreaser generally, just a cleaning lube, and when in sandy climates, I'll occasionally use mild pressure from a hose). However, in cold dry weather, ProLink worked pretty well. Any other time, the drivetrain felt like crap. A waxier cleaning lube, Rockn'Roll Gold is now my favorite, though it will take a few applications to get the chain very clean. It is thin--much thinner than something like White Lightning, so I do have to use more of it and take care of my chain more often. In addition to wiping down and relubing the chain after most rides, I will take a brush to the cassette and be sure to wipe grit off the rings as more goo gets shed from the chain. I am a lighter weight rider, but I do a variety of shifting over rolling terrain, in traffic, and in races. With this approach, the only skipping or grinding I'll feel is when I need to make a slight cable adjustment or when the chain has gotten noticeably dirty. In fact, I got into my obsessive compulsive drivetrain maintenance after locking up the chainrings a couple of times (chain got wedged) with a mildly dirty chain. I just love how much more smoothly the bike runs. I don't think that proper regular maintenance will destroy your chain. Daily degreasing and using harsher cleaners? Maybe. A cleaning lube? Doubtful. It may appear that more grit is flying around, but really, it's the chain shedding all the grit. Like I said, my chain has survived over 5k miles. I'm getting nervous about it now, but the shop (and my ruler) keep telling me it's ok.

What chain are you using? SRAM makes pretty durable chains. 105 or Ultegra level Shimano chains are also good (what I have). DA ones can be a little more fragile. I just have a hard time believing that your chains are getting that bad after only 1000 miles. I can see that by chain #3 you are starting to do some damage to a couple of cogs in the cassette. But damn, that still seems excessive. I mean, there are plenty of heavy guys out there in the mountains getting a few thousand miles out of their chains.

I've been using Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube for a long time. Probably since it is the most commonly available lube. I guess my track record with chain wear doesn't recommend it. But then again, dh uses it as well, and doesn't experience the same kind of chain wear that I do (he's also at least 70 pounds lighter...). I think the chains I've been using were SRAM (At least, the time I asked them to send me home with a chain, that's what I was given). I suppose I could have erred on the side of over cleaning with this bike, but dang, over the winter, the average ride left a very thick layer of heavy sand and grit over every inch of the bike and nside each chain link --which would not budge with even my most concerted efforts to wipe it off. I did use degreaser (the neon pink bike wash somebody here was just talking about) about once a week.

I'll have to look into the cleaning lube.

[Grog]

Regarding chain and cassette wear, I have found two schools of thought here in Vancouver.

School A
Ride it 'til it skips. Change nothing until you're seriously skipping, then change the chain and cassette (and maybe a chainring). Of course do proper maintenance in the meantime.

School B
Change the chain often to lengthen the life of your cassette.

I am lighter than you are, but I've gotten over 8,000 km with School A, and I'm quite fussy with how well my bike performs. According to the chain-measurer gadget, the chain was overstretched at about 3,000 km. My bike person told me not to worry about it. I'm not racing or anything though, so it's not critical for me. The other thing is that I use my cogs quite evenly. My partner, on the other hand, uses only 2-3 gears at the back, which always get worn quickly.

My bike is all Ultegra 10 speeds, so changing the chain is expensive (used to be around $80, must be much cheaper now). I gave School A a chance and it's been relatively successful. You might want to experiment...

[ridebikeme]

Umm... everyone here has definitely given you LOTS of good advice! I generally replace chain/cassette each season for my customers that ride 3000-5000 miles. As someone else mentioned, the chainrings generally get replaced every 2-3 years... it simply depends on the care of the bike from the customer and the quality of the rings... some people are fortunate to have them last a bit longer. As for tires, it generally depends on what type of tires you run and the mileage that you ride.... perhaps replacing them once a year if you continue riding the amount that you did last year. The rain can definitely have a LOT to do with how everything lasts, be sure to wipe everything done after a wet ride, take a file and file down your brake pads to get any of the debris out etc...

Personally, I haven't changed brake pads in 3-4 years, change the chain every 1500 miles which generally allows me to replace the cassette every other time, tires get replaced a couple of times a year, and the chain rings have nOT been replaced yet.(5 years old)

Good luck with the remainder of the season and hope everyones advice helps!

[OakLeaf]

I would not use a patched tube.

Why not???

I can see not racing on one, as it might throw off the balance of the wheel a little bit. I never noticed any difference in cornering, but that wasn't one of my strong points either. On my old race bike, generally a tube on my "training" wheels got four patches before being replaced (never had a flat on my race wheels). It's the least I can do to not put something totally repairable on the landfill (and buy another thing made of petroleum).

Right now my commuter bike has two patches on the rear tube. The older one is about three years old and maybe 2000 miles. That bike sees daily use in season, but not a lot of mileage.

I wouldn't even know how to count the mileage, but I've been riding on patched tubes my entire lifetime. I probably have more than 30,000 miles on patched tubes on skinny tires, and at least that many again on 25c and wider, and I've never, ever had a patch fail. Back in the day, we never even carried spare tubes, just a patch kit, and repaired the tube on the road. (For comparison, I've had TWO mechanic-installed plugs fail on car tires, and people drive on those all the time.)

[silver]

My LBS is giving me the 1000 mile guideline for chain replacement as well. The guy at my shop says its the 10 speeds - the narrower chain wears more quickly. My shop measured the chain and said it was getting worn - perhaps their stretch allowance is lower than necessary?


I just replaced my first chain on the Madone at 1.5 years and 6,300 miles. It's an Ultegra 10 speed. It was just barely stretched.....I'd been checking it. The cassette and chainrings were fine. Again, another lightweight rider who spins and shifts on the lighter side. Mr. who is heavier and a masher has broken a chain and bent a chainring. I'm also pretty meticulous about keeping my bike clean.

[Mr. SR500]

Drive trains will last almost forever if you keep them clean and lubed. I replaced my Dura-Ace chain at around 4,500 miles and it was still well within the 50% limit, I'm guessing it could have gone another 4,500. I'm a bigger rider pushing 200 lbs with gear. Cassette should last several chains.

I go through a couple bottles of lube a year ($20)
New shifter cables about every year ($20)
Chain every 4000 - 6000 miles ($40)
Brake cables can go longer ~ 2 years ($20)
Brake pads get 2+ years ($30)
Tires, not quite a year (I run 2 rear for 1 front so 3 tires = $120)
Cassette, every couple years ($150)
Bar tape (2 x year, it doesn't wear out, I just like to change colors = $25)
Chainrings, mine still look good.

I ride around 4,000+ miles a year, and keep the bike as clean as possible and well lubed.

[Mr. SR500]

$5 flats that sounds about right. Tube plus CO2. I don't carry a regular pump, and I've found patched tubes are not as reliable. I carry a patch kit, but toss the tube after a flat. I buy tubes and CO2 in bulk, so $5 should cover each flat.

[Aggie_Ama]

I have approx 4,700 miles on my bike since purchase December '07. Original chain, rings, brake pads, etc. My chain is about to be replaced and brake pads. I am not light weight (short and over 150), not heavy. In the past year I have spent:

$120 on tires my bike had soft tires stock and the replacements jsut wore out. I ride Maxxis Detonators, a pretty tough tire.
$100 on tubes- I have a project for the dead ones, but I will start patching now. This is for me and DH.
$25 on CO2
$20-ish on lube, husband also rides. I think we have bought two bottles of Rock 'n Roll Gold.
$25 on bar tape and having it installed only because I wanted a change.
$40 on Bottom Bracket Service
$0 on tune ups, my LBS tightens cables and adjusts shifting for free if it is just a little out of sorts. Wheels are just now needing to be trued
$8 have a rear deraileur adjusted.

DH rides harder (bit of a masher), has 10,000+ miles on his bike, second replacement chain. He has yest to replace the cassette, but will need to next chain. He is getting about 4,000 miles out of a Dura Ace chain.

My bike is due for a major tune up, I think my LBS charges around $85 for the big tune up. $40 for cable tightening and wheel truing, $150 to tear it down and service every little piece.

I will say I ride in mostly dry weather and a non-sandy part of Texas. I am not the best at keeping my drive train clean but better than many. We have one of those Park Chain cleaner gadgets as well.

[Aggie_Ama]

$5 flats that sounds about right. Tube plus CO2. I don't carry a regular pump, and I've found patched tubes are not as reliable. I carry a patch kit, but toss the tube after a flat. I buy tubes and CO2 in bulk, so $5 should cover each flat.


You should see if you LBS will recycle those tubes or do what I am doing and weave it into a mirror frame. I am not a fan of patching either.

[Blueberry]

Does anyone know if there's a way to recycle the cassettes, etc. My LBS doesn't recycle them - just wondered if there's another resource.

CA

[Aggie_Ama]

You could make them into art:

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/dc_furnishings_mirrors/article/0,,HGTV_3432_1389157,00.html

I might actually need some cassettes for the candle holders in my bathroom. I also have ideas for incorporating chains, spokes, even valve stems. I could pay the shipping if you don't want them. I am not artsy but I am sure going to try for this guest bath I am decorating. :)

Resource revival takes chains and other parts, no cassettes right now:
http://www.resourcerevival.com/about/recycling

[OakLeaf]

Does anyone know if there's a way to recycle the cassettes, etc. My LBS doesn't recycle them - just wondered if there's another resource. CA

I don't know why steel and aluminum parts couldn't be recycled the same as auto parts and household waste. I just dismantle everything down to its smallest components (to avoid mixed materials) and put metal parts in the recycling bin, but if in doubt, take them to your local scrapyard.

[OakLeaf]

That's two people who won't use patched tubes, so I have to ask again: have you ever had a patch fail? Because it's never happened to me or anyone I know.

[kelownagirl]

I've owned my current road bike for 2 years. My LBS 'tuned' it up for free last year. I have 4900 km on that bike. Same chain, same brake pads, same tires, same everything. I am planning to take it on for another check up in the next week or so and expect to get a free tune up and perhaps replace a couple things if they suggest it. And the LBS gives me 15% everything in the store.

PS I have patched and reused tubes many times. Some more than once (same tube, new cut). Haven't had any repair fail.

[lauraelmore1033]

well, the first time I tried to patch a tube, it wouldn't even hold air. I'd followed the directions, but still...
Seemed rather unreliable, especially considering I quite frequently ride out into the middle of nowhere.

I guess I should try it again.

[Aggie_Ama]

That's two people who won't use patched tubes, so I have to ask again: have you ever had a patch fail? Because it's never happened to me or anyone I know.

Yes I have. Maybe it was user error, maybe it was the sweltering 85% humidity we patched and used it in, dunno but the only source of leak was the patched area. Mostly it is pure tiredness keeping me from using them. And I do not patch because I have been saving them for the mirror I posted. I have 4 years worth of tubes that could be patched that I am saving for the mirror. I have to count but I think I finally have enough.

My LBS recycles tubes for all the non-patchers out there. And tires too.

[smilingcat]

That's two people who won't use patched tubes, so I have to ask again: have you ever had a patch fail? Because it's never happened to me or anyone I know.

If correctly applied, older style patches do not fail. Too many people use too much glue and not wait until its dry (not tacky) before applying the patch over a hole. Another common mistake is not properly sanding down the area where the patch goes. use 60 grid sandpaper or use the concrete sidewalk or curb. They do a wonderful job in sanding down the tube.


The new thin ones do fail. I'll go to a bike shop and get the name of the newer quickie fix patch.

smilingcat

[Grog]

When you get parts changed, make sure the bike shop gives you your old parts back.

[lauraelmore1033]

When you get parts changed, make sure the bike shop gives you your old parts back.

They always offer them back, but I don't usually take them. I've already got a box of greasy metal bits and tires and tubes and other assorted bike junk just kicking around. What do you do with them?

A friend recently showed me a picture of a piece of "art" which looked like it was just four bike chains slung over a door. Price? 2.5 million. He joked that, as hard on chains as I am, I could easily recoup my costs and then some by making a similar art object.
I don't think it works that way, but it's an amusing thought.

[kat_h]

You should see if you LBS will recycle those tubes or do what I am doing and weave it into a mirror frame. I am not a fan of patching either.

There are a lot of uses for old tubes. I don't patch because if I did then I'd have to buy new tubes to use a sleeves on metal bars and such. I'd rather have new tubes on my bike and use the old ones for other projects (mostly on my step-dad's farm.)

[Grog]

They always offer them back, but I don't usually take them. I've already got a box of greasy metal bits and tires and tubes and other assorted bike junk just kicking around. What do you do with them?


Art is indeed one option. :)

The main purpose is to check how worn they are, and that way you know they're not passing them on to someone else (as I've seen done in some shoddy places). It can serve as an emergency part if needed in the future, too.

[OakLeaf]

The new thin ones do fail. I'll go to a bike shop and get the name of the newer quickie fix patch.

smilingcat

Yeah, I wondered about those one-step patches. I've got them on my hybrid, but I don't know if I'd trust them on a high-pressure road tube (although the LBS says they'd be fine...) Park Tool makes some, probably other brands too.

[aicabsolut]

I suck at patching tubes. I can't get it to hold long enough. I just replace. But then, most of the problems I've had were major rips around the valve stem or a broken stem. Neither of those can be fixed with a patch kit. I've had good luck with a couple kinds of tires, Bontrager tubes, maintaining proper inflation, and watching out for big cuts in the tires.

If you deal with a lot of wet, I think Rockn'Roll makes a blue lube for more extreme conditions. You may want to try that. Or a very waxy lube, like White Lightning instead of the teflon stuff. You can find WL everywhere. It's not as cleaning as the RnR, though. When changing the types of lube, you'll want to start with a clean chain, so make your decision with your new chain I guess.

If you're just dealing with a lot of sand, a low pressure hose with a brush followed by good drying now and then (repeat as needed till a lot of the gunk is out) is probably all you need. Then wipe again, relube well. Keeps you from overstripping too often, which is probably not a problem in itself, but it may tend to make you err on the side of under-lubricating afterwards. You want to apply enough that you have to wipe off excess (and all the stuff it helps shed out of the chain).

[lauraelmore1033]

I suck at patching tubes. I can't get it to hold long enough. I just replace. But then, most of the problems I've had were major rips around the valve stem or a broken stem. Neither of those can be fixed with a patch kit. I've had good luck with a couple kinds of tires, Bontrager tubes, maintaining proper inflation, and watching out for big cuts in the tires.

If you deal with a lot of wet, I think Rockn'Roll makes a blue lube for more extreme conditions. You may want to try that. Or a very waxy lube, like White Lightning instead of the teflon stuff. You can find WL everywhere. It's not as cleaning as the RnR, though. When changing the types of lube, you'll want to start with a clean chain, so make your decision with your new chain I guess.

If you're just dealing with a lot of sand, a low pressure hose with a brush followed by good drying now and then (repeat as needed till a lot of the gunk is out) is probably all you need. Then wipe again, relube well. Keeps you from overstripping too often, which is probably not a problem in itself, but it may tend to make you err on the side of under-lubricating afterwards. You want to apply enough that you have to wipe off excess (and all the stuff it helps shed out of the chain).
Thanks, I think I might have to look into that (or maybe the Bioshield Knot mentioned)

[KnottedYet]

Boeshield, made originally for lubing bits of Boeing planes. Now produced for bikes by PMS Products, Inc. (no kidding!) in Holland MI. 800-962-1732. Can also be used to treat the inside of steel frames.

[MomOnBike]

Back in the days when we dodged dinosaur droppings on the roads, my Dad showed me how to patch tubes. No kid of his was going to be stranded with a flat tire.

As an old violin teacher used to say "It yields to practice." Yes, I do have a fair amount of practice, and I have no trouble riding (thousands of miles) on patched tubes, then patch 'em some more. I figure I'm just adding one more layer of rubber between the air and the pointy things that like to eat tires.

I'll stop when I'm putting patches on patches, however. Even I have my limits.

[Skierchickie]

That's two people who won't use patched tubes, so I have to ask again: have you ever had a patch fail? Because it's never happened to me or anyone I know.

I've had the stick-on easy patches fail. The majority of people around here are mountain bikers, and for a bunch of years my LBS dealt primarily with MTBs. Like when those kits first came out - the owner was certain they'd work on road bike tubes. I had them fail every time. Finally I patched a hole, put some air in the tube, and watched as the pressure forced a path out to the edge of the patch. Like a tiny little critter tunneling. I might consider using them on my MTB, but never again on my road bike, unless I had reason to believe they'd been improved. And they may well have been improved since that time, but I don't trust them. Not on a high-pressure tire.