UGH! Tried to tighten stretched cables

[firenze11]

I dunno what got into me but I did some online reading and thought I could do this by myself. It seemed pretty straight forward to me. Here's some background: My bike has been shifting sloppily (is that a word?) in the front for the last few rides (inside). First I figured it was my shifting technique and then I decided to see how tight my cables were. The front derailleur cable was really loose. I thought the last time I took it to the LBS they tightened them, but I think the bike was too new to have stretched cables.

So when I attempted to tighten it I loosened the bolt, pulled the cable taught and tightened it again. When I checked the shifting it seemed perfect. Then, this is where I got in trouble. I got worried I didn't tighten the inner wire pinch bolt (thanks Park Tools website!) and checked it again. Now my derailleur shifts up and down without the slipping but the derailleur is rubbing the chain. This is what I get for monkeying around I guess. So is there anything I can do or do I just take it to the LBS - I'm guessing I just need to take it to the LBS.

[Kalidurga]

Maybe you need to adjust the limit screws on the derailluer cage.

www.bikewebsite.com: Adjust the front derailleur (http://www.bikewebsite.com/ftder.htm)

[DebW]

Is there an adjusting barrel on the derailleur or on the lever or your frame's cable stop. If so turn it 1/4 turn at a time to adjust the cable tension. Screw it inward to loosen the cable, outward to tighten. I presume you've got rubbing of the cage against the chain while on the inner chainring and the largest rear cog? If so the cable need to be loosened. If the barrel doesn't adjust enough, then loosen the cable clamp again, let a couple millimeters of wire slip through, and retighten. Sounds like you did everything right, just need one more tweak.

[firenze11]

I tried turning the barrel adjustor and that seemed to help a lot until I got on the trainer and put some tension on the tire. The front derailleur doesn't want to shift to the larger cogs at all. Then I dropped the chain. I'm guessing it's still me not really knowing what I'm doing plus the cables being stretched, plus maybe a derailleur adjustement. But I'm hesitant to do anything more to my bike than I already have. It seems like an easy fix, I kinda feel embarassed about the whole thing now.

[Melalvai]

But I'm hesitant to do anything more to my bike than I already have. It seems like an easy fix, I kinda feel embarassed about the whole thing now.
Go to the bike shop and ask them to SHOW you how to do it. Emphasize that you want to learn, not just get it fixed.

My friends in the bike shop have taught me so much. One thing they have convinced me is that adjusting cables is one of the trickiest jobs of their business. I don't feel embarrassed that I can't do it on my own. It really is not an easy thing.

Neither is brakes.

Changing out your chain, or cassette, or building a wheel is easier than messing with those darn cables.

[firenze11]

Go to the bike shop and ask them to SHOW you how to do it. Emphasize that you want to learn, not just get it fixed.


Thanks! I think that's exactly what I'm going to do. I did that when I wanted to learn how to change a tire so I don't see why I can't do it now. I really want to learn as much about my bike and keeping maintenance up as I can.

[Zen]

Do you lube your own or have the LBS do it?
The little grease injector gun costs $25.00.
One more thing to buy :o:mad:

[KnottedYet]

Haven't worried about it yet, but my shop said they'd do it as part of my annual tune-up.

[VeloVT]

Neither is brakes.

Changing out your chain, or cassette, or building a wheel is easier than messing with those darn cables.

Brakes are really not bad at all. The key is that with all most all brake jobs, it's much easier if you have four hands :D (bf is usually willing to supply an extra set). Most of the adjustments are pretty straightforward and not all that fiddly though, once you have an extra set of hand.

[Melalvai]

Brakes are really not bad at all. The key is that with all most all brake jobs, it's much easier if you have four hands :D (bf is usually willing to supply an extra set). Most of the adjustments are pretty straightforward and not all that fiddly though, once you have an extra set of hand.
I just got V-brakes, I had cantilever. They look a heck of a lot easier to mess with.

[aicabsolut]

I've had to overhaul my FD on 2 bikes now. First one just was never right. Trips to the shop just made things worse. Second bike, seemed like it was just installed wrong.

I printed out the ParkTools page and started from scratch with the second bike (didn't have to go this far with the first one as the limits were correct, just positioning of the cage wrong).

I started by checking height with the penny test. Then I looked at angle of the cage. Once the clamp was set properly, then I started on indexing. Start with the high limit (usually screw farthest from the frame), with no tension on the cable. Set it so that there is a very small gap between the chain and the derailleur when the chain is in big ring little cog. Don't forget to make adjustments when the chain is in the small ring to take tension off the cable. Then shift back up and check for position. Look on the site for where you should look on the cage to check for rubbing. Rubbing more forward on the cage could indicate a problem with height or angle, meaning you didn't do step 1 properly. (However, I've noticed with my compact that I'm going to either get some rub or the cage will be too high--I decided to just deal with rubbing since I hardly use that cog, because the improved shifting outweighed the damage from rubbing IMO).

The lower limit screw is typically the one closest to the frame. Set this index next and check for rubbing on the inner part of the cage from the small ring. Again, you want a very small gap.

Once the limits are set, check shifting speed and then adjust indexing (cable tension) using the barrel adjuster.

Sounds like there may have been a little more wrong with your initial setup that has come out when you tried to tighten the cable at the clamp.

It took me a long time, but I was able to figure it out. I felt I really had no choice, because when I noticed problems with the FD after getting on the new bike for a fit, the shop "fixed" it, and by that I mean made it worse.

It helps to start this process with clean and well lubed chain. I'm sure you can do it. Just if you do move the clamp (if your derailleur is a clamp-on style) that you don't overtighten it and crack your seat tube.