Bike building

[Pedal Wench]

So, I'm about to undertake my first bike build. Campy components on a Bianchi carbon frameset. I had the shop install the Ultratorque cranks. I've got a torque wrench, and the directions that come with each component. Anything I need to look out for? Any specific order to building it up? I'll bring it to a shop for a final check, but I wanna try to get it close on my own. Any tips? Deb, wanna come over?

[DebW]

Any tips? Deb, wanna come over?

Over where?

You'll do fine. Is the headset already installed? Do you have wheels ready? Nothing you need to do is difficult, so just take it one step at a time. You'll need to size the chain after the derailleurs are installed and functioning.

[Pedal Wench]

Come down to Atlanta. I'll put on a pot of coffee... ;)

The headset's installed. And, I'll be taking the wheels off another bike, for now. I'll go slow, read the instructions, check my torque setting, and make sure I have enough links in my chain. (There's an online calculator someplace.)

I guess the rear derailleur is my biggest concern - not sure how to determine the proper angle for it - I've messed with almost every other part on bikes (adjusted brakes, replaced bars so dealt with shifters, replaced cables, stems, etc.) but I've never messed with an RD.

[DebW]

Come down to Atlanta. I'll put on a pot of coffee... ;)

I guess the rear derailleur is my biggest concern - not sure how to determine the proper angle for it - I've messed with almost every other part on bikes (adjusted brakes, replaced bars so dealt with shifters, replaced cables, stems, etc.) but I've never messed with an RD.

If the cage or jockey wheel rubs the largest cog, the derailleur need to move backwards. Sometimes chain length affects this too. The closer the cage is to the cogs the better it shifts (unless it's rubbing of course). Just play around with it and try different setting. You won't hurt anything by trying different things on the repair stand.

[Pedal Wench]

Got it. Obviously, I need to put the wheels on before the RD, so I can position it properly. That bike might end up with a 12/25 cassette, but right now, the wheel I'm using has a 13/29 (I'm a lousy climber) so I know I'll have all the clearance I'll ever need.

Thanks so much! I'll post tomorrow with my progress!

[Kathi]

Sorry, I can't help you with the build but I'm curious, what's so special about the Campy Ultratorque cranks?

They were mentioned on another forum and now you're going to use them. So what have I missed?

[Pedal Wench]

Okay, almost immediately ran into a minor roadblock. The new 2007 Record brakes use a Torx screw head on some of the bolts, and I don't have one of those. But, I got this far:
Front brake
Stem
Handlebars
Shifters
Front Derailleur (it's a braze-on FD with a clamp adapter for non-braze-on frames)
Rear Derailleur
Cable housings

Need rear brake and actual cables, but it's coming together rather quickly!

Ultra-torque is a new technology that Campagnolo is using that uses an integrated bottom bracket that's part of the cranks.

[Kathi]

Doesn't Shimano use something like that too?

[DebW]

Doesn't Shimano use something like that too?

Shimano's version has the entire spindle attached to the right crank arm. The spindle is inserted through the bottom bracket to which outboard bearing are attached, and then the left crank arm bolts on the spindle. The Campy version has 1/2 the spindle attached to either crank arm and the pieces bolt together in the middle of the bottom bracket. The idea is to put the bearings outside the bottom bracket to make the whole thing stiffer. And the spindle can be of larger diameter and thinner, so lighter and stiffer.