?HR Monitor?

[eclectic]

I posted this under first triathlonites but then thought maybe I would get more help if I put it right out here.

I am finally thinking it may be time for a HR monitor

I have searched this forum and others, compared models, compared features, compared prices and now I AM TOTALLY LOST.

I swim, bike and try to run. I would like a HR monitor that would work for all 3 and not cost an arm and a leg. (not over $200, preferably a lot less) I don't need it to download to a computer, but I would like a cadence monitor on it.

What models does anyone recommend and what do they do? I am soooo bad at this stuff. Knowing me I would blindly get something, figure it out and then wish I had gotten something else
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[light_sabe_r]

Hi eclectic

I have a Timex "IRONMAN" triathlon heart rate monitor, It's water resistant to 50m, counts times on 30 laps and most importantly it has digital encoding to stop intererance from other peoples heart rate monitors.
Mine WILL however transfer data to a computer via the infra red thingy but I didn't buy that. It's an extra that is bought seperate. BF has the men's version of this HRM so we are considering getting the infra red thing and sharing it.

It doesn't have a cadence monitor but I find it's perfect for what I want. Over here, I've yet to find a HRM suited to Tris that also does cadence. The only heart rate monitors i've seen with cadence monitors are a hybrid between a HRM and a BIKE computer which means they're useless for triatlon because they're not a watch. That's not to say you can't find one over there... but yeah.


my HRM cost me $199 Australian (so that's probably $150 US)

Did I mention I love it??


The basic thing you need in a heart rate monitor is Heart Rate, Lap time or stopwatch, and calorie calculator (using some formula we learnt is Physiology in UNI involving weight and max heart rate) and if you want to use it as a watch, then a CLOCK function. ^_^ If you're going to use it in the pool then make sure it's water resistant/proof for at least ten metres.

[Offthegrid]

Sounds very similar to my search. I didn't have a cyclocomputer that measures cadence, and I wanted one unit to do both AND that I could wear while running.

Enter the Polar CS-300. It is a watch, but also measures your cycling speed and comes with a handlebar mount. You have to buy the cadence sensor separately, however ($30).

You can input settings for two bikes, so you can switch back and forth between a road and tri bike if you'd like (though you'd have to install both the sensors on both bikes to get it to work properly).

It's also waterproof.

So far I really like it. I did have problems with it on my last ride, but I think that's because I didn't wet the strap electrodes first. (Or, at least, that's the only thing I can think of that I did differently and it worked today for my HR test).

The actual band you wear around your chest is surprisingly comfortable.

My major complaint is that the watch is BIG. It would look really weird on your arm if you're petite. But if it weren't big, it'd be too tough to see while you're riding anyway.

[mel1976]

Hi eclectic

I have the Polar S625X which was their top of the range heart rate monitor when I purchased it around 2 years ago. I had to buy a speed sensor for my bike separately, but the model I purchased did come with a running pod for my runners that allows me to track how far, how quickly etc I've covered ground.

The current model with polar is the S725X I think. It has a speed sensor and cadence sensor that you can attach to your bike, as well as a foot pod. I'm not sure of the cost of the current model, but must admit I paid around $400 Australian Dollars for mine a couple of years ago.

This pretty much covers everything that you need - the watch in run mode is a heart rate monitor, lap counter, distance counter (if wearing the foot pod) the watch in bike mode is a bike computer, that will measure speed and cadence. You can use the watch with two different bikes. I only have the one, so just fit it to my bike when biking and take the watch of the handlebar mount when wanting to run. It’s also waterproof so you can use it for swimming as well. The heart rate sensor is comfortable to wear, and I've had mine in excess of two years with probably average usage. I've only just recently replaced the battery in the chest strap.

The watch has an infrared sensor so you can upload your run/bike/swim data to a computer. I find this a great way to keep track of what I'm doing, how long its taking, how far I'm going and whether I'm improving my performance or mileage. It also has the ability to set different interval training sessions, so if you are doing speed work etc, you can set it to beep at say 1 minute, then 30 seconds after, then 1 minute, then 30 seconds etc, which allows you to do interval training and not having to look at your watch all the time.

I guess what you need to consider is what you really want to do with the information that you are getting from your HR monitor. If it’s just to measure your heart rate, then just get a simple model and don't spend the $$$$. A friend has a polar one especially designed for females (in pink) and she loves it. I'm the sort of person who likes to pick things apart, so therefore love the ability to analyse data etc and to track my progress on a computer. Bit of a tech geek as well as a want to be tri geek.

I love my heart rate monitor and when I originally purchased it didn't use all the functions, but as I've started training more and getting into the three different sports, found that its been an extremely useful tool and worthwhile investment.

light_sabe_r - with regards to the infrared connection for your heart rate monitor, you can normally get these from computer stores etc. **** Smith sells one for about $60 AUD that plugs into a USB port. Often this is a cheaper option that purchasing the one made by the manufacturer of the watch. If you want further information, let me know.

Mel

[crazybikinchic]

mel

I am glad that you posted about the Polar. I have an A2 (I think) that I have absolutely loved, but the battery died, and DH is considering just getting me a new one. I have had mine for about 5 years and have gone from spin class to long distance riding and now running (thanks to a 13 pound white fur ball I call a dog:D ). I was on Polar's website and was looking at that model. There is a fitness expo this weekend and I was going to go look and get more info on it, so I am glad to know that you are so happy with it. My real draw back with it is that I am cheep and don't want to hand over the money for it.:o

[eclectic]

Well I have thought about it, mulled it over, spent hours on the computer researching and was going to spring for the polar cs300 until I got THINKING about actually using it.

If I used it solely for my trip distance etc I would have to be putting it on the bike, taking it off, putting it on etc. everytime I rode.

I finally decided I would probably go a little less expensive and get the polar F6, it has the minimum that I need (minus the lap counter).

Then this spring I will just upgrading my bike computer to the wired Cateye astrale 8. the sensor mounts on the back wheel and I have never cared whether it is wired or not, I don't switch bikes at this time and probably won't be in the near future

Total price would be about $140 vs $229 for the CS300

thanks for your input ladies it really did help alot

OTG - how are you liking the CS300? It is a sweet piece of electronics :)

[Offthegrid]

I do like the cs300. Mounting on the bike is as easy as putting a watch on. The downside is the speed sensor is on the front wheel, so I can't know how far I've riden on the trainer.

But I paid $180 for it. If you look around and wait for coupon codes, you can get a good deal. But if you go for the F6, that's cool, too.

[eclectic]

the $229 was with the cadence monitor and the bike mount.

I figured putting it on the bike would be simple but just one more thing I would have to do. Knowing me (AND I DO know me) I would be scrambling to find where I last put it, find the monitor, not know where the strap is because they are no longer together . . . .

Organized is NOT my middle name! :p

Keep posting on how you are using it and how it is going.

[soogood]

You will need a waterproof heart rate monitor then. Try Bios Fitness, they have a few good models for serious training. :D I'm happy with mine although I haven't tested in with swimming. You should also look for models with a bike mount. Polar's another popular brand, like the others have mentioned.

[eclectic]

IT'S HERE ALREADY ! ! !

I am anxious to read up on it and try it. Unfortunately I don't have time today :(

It is pretty pink so shouldn't look too dorky :)

[Bikingmomof3]

Eclectic-which one did you decide to buy? I wear my polar watch all the time, I am used to the large size now.

[eclectic]

Eclectic-which one did you decide to buy? I wear my polar watch all the time, I am used to the large size now.

I went with the Polar f-6. in pretty pink. It does what I need it to do and still stayed w/in my budget. I am going to put a separate permanent cadence monitor on my bike.

[Bikingmomof3]

Mine is black. We opted for the same set-up. :D

[Offthegrid]

Too late now, but the CS300 comes with the bike mount. You're right that the cadence monitor was extra.

[eclectic]

I tried out my new HR monitor on Friday night (friends at the gym were laughing as I walked around the track w/ monitor in one hand and the manual in the other)

I tried the preset HR for my age and the Ownzone feature.
I also had the perceived rate of exertion chart (PRE)

I am going to a sports medicine Dr. on Th for something else, that is no longer bothering me BTW but now I am glad I have the appointment

Now here is the dilemma - when I stay in the HR zone recommended I was only walking about 3 mph, even if I did a brisk walk my HR jumped up too high, slow running was out of the question.
My PRE was about at get up from the couch to get a beer level

I bumped the parameters up to HIGH and then could do a sloooooow run. but now the HR was at 145-150. I decided to keep running the track and see how long I could go. I was doing a 12 min mile and ran for an hour, barely broke a sweat and could carry on an easy conversation. But my HR was steady at 145-50 which is the supposedly 80% rate for me where I should only be speaking in short sentances, passed lactate threshold, and breathing heavily

I wore it to spinning class yesterday and set it on manual. my HR went up to 173 and I could still speak short phrases - I hadn't hit the no talk zone. when we lessened the pressure and sat down spinning at about 85 -90 my HR
dropped to 134 in about 30 secs.

My best guess based on limited research is my asthma or asthma meds are affecting my HR. If not enough Oxygen is getting to the muscles the HR can jump

At least I have some numbers now to throw out to the Dr.

[beetle]

Bit late now to offer a HR suggestion but I have the Cardiosport Go30 http://www.heartratemonitor.co.uk/cardiosport_go_30.html which I bought in the UK two years ago. It is quite similar to the Polar F6 but doesn't have Ownzone etc.

It'll be interesting to see what your Dr says but it may take a while using the HR monitor before you find what is normal for you doing different activities. I find my HR quite different for swimming, cycling, running and rowing for thhe same RPE. My HR is highest when cycling, then running, then swimming, then rowing for much the same RPE. I think most people have variation between sports and though running and cycling tend to be higher a lot has to do with your skill in each sport too.


I tried the preset HR for my age and the Ownzone feature.
I also had the perceived rate of exertion chart (PRE)
<snip>
Now here is the dilemma - when I stay in the HR zone recommended I was only walking about 3 mph, even if I did a brisk walk my HR jumped up too high, slow running was out of the question.
My PRE was about at get up from the couch to get a beer level

I bumped the parameters up to HIGH and then could do a sloooooow run. but now the HR was at 145-150. I decided to keep running the track and see how long I could go. I was doing a 12 min mile and ran for an hour, barely broke a sweat and could carry on an easy conversation. But my HR was steady at 145-50 which is the supposedly 80% rate for me where I should only be speaking in short sentances, passed lactate threshold, and breathing heavily

I'm not 100% sure but I'm pretty sure that polar just use a fairly simple algorithm to work out HRM (like 220 - age) and then apply that to an ideal workout rate of 65 - 85% MHR which to be honest may not be ideal for you.

I am training ATM in a range of 70 - 75% MHR and it feels very easy BUT I'm pregnant and want to keep my base fittness and exercise as far into pg as I can. Though this is the reccomended zone for base training for normal training I agree it feels pretty easy.

Just keep in mind that Polar's own zone is really designed for people who don't know their own HR tendencies and want a generic plan for training to lose weight/imrove general fitness. I would say 65 - 85% would be a good range if you were doing a long endurance session but wrong if you are doing intervals or something like a spin class where your HR is up and down a lot for on/off efforts.

Also, you prob have a different HRmax to what the watch is assuming. Now that you have the watch you can work it out yourself, Polar probably incude a test in their handbook. But you could do something like this:
10-15 min warm up 60% (estimated) HRmax
1-2 min rest or easy spinning/walking
7 - 10mins maximum effort. Pick a distance in that zone on the bike or running and try to get your best time for it. You will reach you HRmax in the last few minute assuming you are working really hard all the way to the end. If you are on a treadmill you will be able to see your HR without looking at your watch which could be helpful. Though your watch gives maximum heart rate I'd be a bit wary of 100% trusting that figure at the end of your test unless you saw it consistently as readings can sometimes be a bit inacurate (I got a 220 on mine once which was clearly wrong).


I wore it to spinning class yesterday and set it on manual. my HR went up to 173 and I could still speak short phrases - I hadn't hit the no talk zone. when we lessened the pressure and sat down spinning at about 85 -90 my HR
dropped to 134 in about 30 secs.

HR recovery time is a great way of checking your fitness improvement. One of the features of my watch that I love is that you can set a recovery HR and it gives me the time I take to return from about 90%HRmax to that level. As the time shortens you can see that your fitness is improving (which is why you shorten the recovery in interval session the better you get). It worth looking at your HR about 2 mins after the end of a 90% effort to get a HR recovery reading and noting it for refference. Then every week or so see how long it takes for your HR to return to that figure, if your training is working the time should reduce.

Sorry for the ramble but I remember it took me ages to get my head around my HR monitor, I still havn't mastered the art of HR training though. I hope you don't mind all the suggestion/comments.

[eclectic]

thanks beetle for all the info - Soooo much to learn and to figure out.

Knowing my body and how it reacts will be worth it in the long run.

I may have to have someone help me with the max HR check - I am a weenie and when something starts to hurt or is uncomfortable I wimp out. I need the person over me saying "COME ON YOU CAN DO IT - KEEP GOING! ALMOST THERE!"

I plan on running again tonight so will see how it checks out

thanks again for the great response!

[beetle]

No dramas, I'm new to Tri too and just found the "new to triathlonites" thread so am off to read my way through it. Enjoy your run tonight.