Anyone here know about vintage steel bikes?

[kaian]

I have some questions about whether or not I should buy an older steel bike and fix it up. Has anyone here done this or know about what to look for when purchasing something like this?

[xeney]

Although there are a lot of not very nice people over at bikeforums.net, the guys on the classic/vintage forum are really helpful and pretty much know everything. And older steel road bikes are the main thing they talk about.

My husband and I have a lot of old steel road bikes that we've picked up here and there, but nothing very exciting or exotic, and I only know what I've learned from reading bikeforums.net.

[DebW]

I think there's some definite steel expertise here. What kind of bike are you looking at? Lugged or unlugged? Weight? Brand name? Tubing? Frame angles? Wheelbase? What use do you want to get out of the bike? Commuting, fast rides, touring?

Maybe the first big question is whether the frame really fits you.

[mimitabby]

can you tell? Deb knows more about steel bikes than we'll ever even understand!

And she's 100% correct. does the bike fit?

[DebW]

If you ever find a Reynolds 531 or Columbus tubing frame in your size, grab it. But you'd want to know if it's straight-gage, double butted, or triple butted. Straight-gage can be rather stiff, and triple-butted could potentially be a bit whippy. That's the high end of the steel vintage market.

At the low end are American-made frames, usually welded, not lugged, that take 1-piece cranks and weigh too much. Best to avoid them.

In the middle are various grades of chrome-moly steel.

[kaian]

Okay...great! I have some interested people. Sometimes I get ignored on cyclingforums.com.

It's a Miyata 710. It needs some TLC for sure. The rear cogs and derailleur were gunked up, some surface rust on the chain (nothing major). The frame itself has some scratches and a few rust spots. The tires will need to be replaced and the brakes need something! Adjustment - maybe new pads.

It's pretty close to fitting. The measurements are a little different from my Trek, but really close. Standover is fine. The top tube is a tad long (maybe 1/2 longer than my trek, but the stem is shorter than on my Trek). I moved the seat up (is was back far) and that helped. Riding it is comfy, but reaching the brakes is tricky. The brakes are kind of far down and since many people don't ride on the hoods on the older bikes, they can be hard to get to.

The tires had barely enough air in them and despite the gunk on the parts, I could not believe how nice this bike shifted. It was like butter! The ride was really smooth, too.

I guess I was looking for a vintage steel bike just for variety. I have a Trek 1500 which is great, but I thought steel might be nice for...maybe some medium to long rides. I figured if I could find something cheap and not have to put much money in it, I could have a neat vintage ride.

The guy was asking $95, but I thought of offering him less because of the tires and such.

Thoughts? Advice? Thank you!

[mimitabby]

make an offer! if he doesn't like it, you can always come up with the $95.00
right?

And welcome to the club. There are a lot of us here struggling with (or who have struggled with) top tubes that are too long.

[Dogmama]

If you ever find a Reynolds 531 or Columbus tubing frame in your size, grab it.


Wow, maybe my bike fits this category?? It's Reynolds 531 & lugged. Of course, its rider is vintage too...

[DebW]

Wow, maybe my bike fits this category?? It's Reynolds 531 & lugged. Of course, its rider is vintage too...

Post a picture so I can drool.


Okay...great! I have some interested people. Sometimes I get ignored on cyclingforums.com.

It's a Miyata 710. It needs some TLC for sure. The rear cogs and derailleur were gunked up, some surface rust on the chain (nothing major). The frame itself has some scratches and a few rust spots. The tires will need to be replaced and the brakes need something! Adjustment - maybe new pads.

It's pretty close to fitting. The measurements are a little different from my Trek, but really close. Standover is fine. The top tube is a tad long (maybe 1/2 longer than my trek, but the stem is shorter than on my Trek). I moved the seat up (is was back far) and that helped. Riding it is comfy, but reaching the brakes is tricky. The brakes are kind of far down and since many people don't ride on the hoods on the older bikes, they can be hard to get to.

The tires had barely enough air in them and despite the gunk on the parts, I could not believe how nice this bike shifted. It was like butter! The ride was really smooth, too.

I guess I was looking for a vintage steel bike just for variety. I have a Trek 1500 which is great, but I thought steel might be nice for...maybe some medium to long rides. I figured if I could find something cheap and not have to put much money in it, I could have a neat vintage ride.

The guy was asking $95, but I thought of offering him less because of the tires and such.

Thoughts? Advice? Thank you!

A quick search on Miyata 710 looks like its a very nice frame. Not 531, but quite nice nonetheless. How many cogs and chainrings? Where are the shifters located (downtube?)? The 5 and 6 speed freewheels are now hard, but not impossible, to get. Definitely start with a new chain. What kind of crankset? Derailleurs? Brakes? 27 inch or 700c wheels? You shouldn't have any major problem with replacement parts. The brake levers can probably be moved so you can reach them easier.

[kaian]

It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.

[DebW]

It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

I don't like Dia Compe brakes. They flex too much and never feel as solid as they should. You can probably get them working adequately, but I'd consider replacing them at some point. Weinneman's of the same vintage were much better if you can find a pair. Nice to hear that it shifts like butter. Downtube shifters give you a nice direct link to the derailleurs with minumal cabling.


I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.
I'd agree with him.

Ask the seller if he has the crank puller or freewheel puller for this bike. Sugino might take the most standard and easily available puller, but you need to be sure you've got one. What make is the freewheel? Suntour? They made a 2-prong and a 4-prong version. I'd suggest checking out the hub, bb, and headset bearings when you get the bike and repack as necessary. A lot of people ignore their bearing until they are shot.

[kaian]

Hmmm...looks like I'll be learning some more in-depth bike mechanics. Thanks so much for the info. I emailed the guy to let him know I'd like to come back and look at it again (and possibly buy). I made him a low offer, so we'll see what he comes back with.

I have no idea how to repack bearings, but I'm hoping my friend can help me. I doubt this guy has the crank puller. He's not the original owner and expressed that he doesn't know much about the bike. Thanks for the tip on the brakes! They felt pretty squishy and useless, but again, I wasn't sure if it was because they have been neglected for so long.

[DebW]

Thanks for the tip on the brakes! They felt pretty squishy and useless, but again, I wasn't sure if it was because they have been neglected for so long.

Squishy is an appropriate term for Dia Compe brakes. Of course I don't know if they
are adjusted as well as possible, but they really do feel squishy under the best of circumstances.

[roguedog]

Kaian, thanks for starting this thread. Didn't know there was a steel person here.

I bought a used steel bike too. It's a Panasonic. That's about all I know about it. I too have the dia compe brakes, Shimano SIS components, Araya 700cc wheels, downtube shifters, 6x2 (12 speed).

I have a friend who has a person come out to do mechanical work on their bikes and he's apparently pretty cheap. How much money should I put into it before it's no longer worthwhile?

I kinda like the nice clean look of the older bikes. Just simple and clean.

Here's some (bad) pics if anyone's curious: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/roguedog98/detail?.dir=5de9scd&.dnm=ad01scd.jpg&.src=ph

[xeney]

Wow, where are you all finding these old bikes with 700c wheels? Ours are all 27", with the exception of a couple from the 90s. I'm jealous, 700c are so much easier to find.

We are going to try to see if 700cs will work on my mixte (it's really just a matter of whether the brakes will reach) because otherwise I am going to have to order a custom wheelset ... I need a touring wheelset with a flip-flop hub because it's a single speed but I carry tons of groceries, and nobody stocks such a thing in 27". (Harris Cyclery used to, but not anymore.)

[Popoki_Nui]

It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.


Hoo baby! If you don't take this Miyata, can I have it? :D Others' comments about the DiaCompe brakes are valid; if you want to keep the bike close to original, try to find a set of Gran-Compe brakes. Made by DiaCompe, but MUCH better made.
By the sound of the component set, the frame may well be Ishiwata or Tange (formerly Champion) tubing.....probably butted. And man..SunTour Cyclone drivetrain???
The SunTour Cyclone (and Cyclone II) line was GREAT stuff....better than Shimano and as durable and functional as Simplex, Huret, and Campy.
If you have trouble reaching the brakes, you can try rotating the bars "forward", and moving the brakes up the curve of the bar until you find a comfortable spot. Or...a stem with a shorter reach.
For a little money, and assuming it can be adjusted to fit you well, this bike can be made into a real beaut. Good luck with it!!
Edit: don't forget to have the frame checked for internal rust. Light-to-moderate rust inside the frame tubes can be neutralized, then treated to help prevent further corrosion.

[DebW]

Kaian, thanks for starting this thread. Didn't know there was a steel person here.
Are you talking about me? DebW, woman of steel - sounds like a superhero.



I have a friend who has a person come out to do mechanical work on their bikes and he's apparently pretty cheap.


Now maybe that's my next occupation: DebW, the traveling steel bike doctor and cheap date. [Note that "date" refers to an appointment with a bicycle (either gender accepted).]



Wow, where are you all finding these old bikes with 700c wheels? Ours are all 27", with the exception of a couple from the 90s. I'm jealous, 700c are so much easier to find.

We are going to try to see if 700cs will work on my mixte (it's really just a matter of whether the brakes will reach) because otherwise I am going to have to order a custom wheelset.

Or DebW, the mail order vintage wheelbuilder - send me your vintage hub and I'll add a new rim.

[kaian]

How would one check for internal rust??? Is there anything I can look for BEFORE I buy it that would tell me whether or not there is rust on the inside?

[DebW]

How would one check for internal rust??? Is there anything I can look for BEFORE I buy it that would tell me whether or not there is rust on the inside?

The only easy thing I can think of is to pull out the seatpost and look in the seat tube. The area around the bottom bracket would be more telling, but not easy to get a peak into. A feel for the condition of the bottom bracket would be a clue. If the bb feels well greased and adjusted, then someone has probably taken care of it regularly, and a good grease job keeps water out. A bb is best felt without the crank arms on the spindle, but barring that, drop the chain off the inner chainring and give the crank a feel and a spin. Spinning freely and smoothly is good. Also try to wiggle the crank arms in directions other than around in circles - any unwanted movement here is bad. Oh, and ask the current owner if he rides in the rain.

[Popoki_Nui]

The only easy thing I can think of is to pull out the seatpost and look in the seat tube. Oh, and ask the current owner if he rides in the rain.

Exactly. Also check for external rust. Especially under the frame tubes, under the BB and chainstays. Check the steel parts of the components (cable clamp bolts, pivots, derailleur springs, brake springs, etc). Check the tiny holes on the inside of the chain and seat stays, and the fork (they are there to allow the frame to breathe; if they are blocked with grunge, any moisture trapped inside the frame can't evaporate and can cause problems)
Minor rust spots from small chips and scratches in the paint is usually nothing to worry about. Larger rusty areas, rust bubbles under the paint, and/or excessively corroded steel component parts can indicate the bike was used or stored in the rain and maybe not cared for as well as it should have been. That's when you want to pull the BB, fork, and have a better look inside.
Chances of major problems from rust is pretty low. I've rejected maybe two or three potential restoration frames in 30 years of restoring steel bikes. However, if you do buy the bike and it needs to be disassembled for cleaning and adjustment, you may wish to have the frame treated internally anyway. It's easy and cheap, if a little messy.

[kaian]

Well, I ended up buying the bike. I got it for $50! It does need some major cleaning and I will probably be taking the bike apart to look at everything. I'm already thinking of handle bar tap colors and matching the bottle cages. hahaha. I'm not even a girly-girl! hahaha.

So how would I treat the bike for rust - since I am taking it all apart? Popoki Nui, you mentioned it was cheap and easy?

There are some surface rust spots and spots where paint is missing. My friend who is helping says he has some ideas on how to deal with those things and that red is easy to match (for touch-up paint). He has restored bikes and cars, so I'm assuming he knows what he's talking about.

I am a grad student, so I am swamped with homework right now, so I probably won't be able to start working on the bike until after Nov. 1st. Perhaps I'll post some "before" pictures, so everyone can see!

[Popoki_Nui]

Hi kaian: you can do this in a one-step (rustproof only), or two-step (neutralize and rustproof) process. You will need to get:
-duct tape
-rust neutralizer liquid (for the two-step process) Any automotive store should carry it. Look for names like Rust-Chek or Rust-Stop, etc. Get a can of liquid; spray cans won't really work here.
-a litre (or pint ) of boiled linseed oil. Any hardware store should have it. Alternately, you can buy any of several bike-specific frame treatment products like Frame-Savr etc. Linseed oil works as well and is usually much cheaper.

-When the front fork and BB, are removed, tape over all those openings completely with duct tape. Also tape over the hole in the chainstay bridge (the small tube connecting the chainstays right behind the BB)
-poke a few small holes in the duct tape at all those locations with a safety pin or something similar
-locate the tiny frame breather holes (usually on the inner side of the chain and seat stays near the rear dropouts, and at the top of the seat stays where they are brazed to the frame up near the seatpost). Carefully clean them out using the tip of a safety pin on thin piece of wire. Don't tape over them.
Two-step process (go to step 2 if you are only rustproofing, and not neutralizing as well):
1)- pour a litre (or pint) of rust neutralizer liquid into the seatpost opening and insert the seatpost back in and tighten the bolt. Then simply rotate the frame slowly by hand, end-over-end and side-over-side several times (slowly) to allow the neutralizer to reach and treat all the internal tubes and joints. Watch for the liquid seeping out the holes you poked in the duct tape, and the frame breather holes. This will help tell you when the liquid is getting to the right places.
-remove the seatpost, and allow all excess liquid to drain out. This may take a while. Rotate the frame occasionally.
-let the frame dry overnight in a warm location.

2)-remove the seatpost and pour a litre or pint of boiled linseed oil into the frame, insert the seatpost again, and use the same slow end-over-end and side-over-side procedure several times to coat all the internal surfaces and joints. This works best in a warm location. When you're sure you have coated all the internal surfaces, remove all the duct tape and drain the excess oil from the frame. Rotate end-over-end etc often until ALL excess oil has drained. Be patient. It may take several hours or even overnight for all the oil to drain out. Allow the frame to dry well. This can take a few days depending on the temperature. Rotate the frame occasionally.
-clean out those tiny seat and chainstay holes with a safety pin so the frame will breathe properly.
-wash all excess oil off the frame, and off the BB threads only, and you're ready to rebuild.
Good luck!

~Sherry.

[kaian]

Wow...thank you! :)

I will post some pics tomorrow so everyone can see what I'm working with. :)

[Popoki_Nui]

Wow...thank you! :)

I will post some pics tomorrow so everyone can see what I'm working with. :)


Yes please! :D
Take plenty of pics as you go through the overhaul process. They're fun to look at later!

Have fun with it!

~Sher.

[Kitsune06]

Moved from another thread... Yeah. I'm saving my nickels and pennies, and the day I have my major debts paid off and can start on student loan debt (HA!) I'm going to invest in an older steel cx bike.
Sure new bikes are nice, but I dream of looking over a '70s Raleigh or Schwinn, running my fingers over little scratches from everyday use, feeling her take the pavement and paths with well-practiced grace and ride her the way she'd been waiting for. I'd assure her that her scuffs are the imperfections that create her perfection and uniqueness. She'd have a Brooks saddle, and I'd learn how to wrap and varnish her handlebars, just for her. A classic beauty, and she'd be mine.
*sigh*

[DebW]

Moved from another thread... Yeah. I'm saving my nickels and pennies, and the day I have my major debts paid off and can start on student loan debt (HA!) I'm going to invest in an older steel cx bike.
Sure new bikes are nice, but I dream of looking over a '70s Raleigh or Schwinn, running my fingers over little scratches from everyday use, feeling her take the pavement and paths with well-practiced grace and ride her the way she'd been waiting for. I'd assure her that her scuffs are the imperfections that create her perfection and uniqueness. She'd have a Brooks saddle, and I'd learn how to wrap and varnish her handlebars, just for her. A classic beauty, and she'd be mine.
*sigh*

Your DGF might be jealous if she read this, Kit. Go for the Rayleigh and I might be jealous too.

[Kitsune06]

She's a hot '70s model, too. She'd understand. ;) Maybe.
I hope she never reads this all... just the same. :D

[Dogmama]

Post a picture so I can drool.

Keep in mind, she is 12 years and 50,000 miles old. This is a custom bike. It is Reynolds steel & C-Chorus.

1852

1853

1854

[DebW]

Keep in mind, she is 12 years and 50,000 miles old. This is a custom bike. It is Reynolds steel & C-Chorus.


Wow. *wipes drool off keyboard* Was it custom made for you?

What do you call the headbadge/lug cutout?

[kaian]

Here are some pics of the Miyata 710 I just bought. I took a lot more pics than this for anyone who wants to see more close-ups of certain parts.

I'm trying to decide on handle bar tape and bottle cage colors - any suggestions? The logo is silver, so I thought about matching that, but not sure. I think I'm going to get some tires from Performance. I was thinking about some Continental Ultras because they have some for pretty cheap right now. Should I go with 23s or 25s for this bike?

I'll probably start working on the bike in about 2 weeks when I have more time. I'm planning on doing the anti internal rust thing and then also re-lubing the bottom bracket as well as doing a thorough cleaning and eventually getting rid of outer rust spots and paint chips (I'll need to find some touch-up paint). My experienced bike building friend said he thought the wheels felt solid and probably do not need new bearings at this point. After looking at it, he thinks the bike probably didn't get ridden a lot, but just sat around a lot. He also said that he doesn't think we'll need to replace the chain right off the bat if it's not skipping. ????

I'm new to this stuff, so if there are more great suggestions, please send them my way. I'd like other opinions besides the ones my friend is giving me. He has sort of an "old school" way of doing things, which is cool, but I'd like all kinds of perspectives. Thanks again!!!!

[Popoki_Nui]

Here are some pics of the Miyata 710 I just bought. I took a lot more pics than this for anyone who wants to see more close-ups of certain parts.

I'm trying to decide on handle bar tape and bottle cage colors - any suggestions? The logo is silver, so I thought about matching that, but not sure.

Nice!! A good cleaning and tuneup and you should get many happy years out of her.
What about red bar tape, and silver bottle cages? You mentioned having a little difficulty reaching the brake hoods: since you have aero hoods, you may not be able to slide them up towards you very much. In that case, you may want to get a stem with a shorter reach.
Good luck and have fun working on her!

[Popoki_Nui]

Keep in mind, she is 12 years and 50,000 miles old. This is a custom bike. It is Reynolds steel & C-Chorus.

Wow is right! Who built it? I don't recognize the logo. Mmm...mmm.....sweet bike!

[DebW]

Here are some pics of the Miyata 710 I just bought. I took a lot more pics than this for anyone who wants to see more close-ups of certain parts.

I'm trying to decide on handle bar tape and bottle cage colors - any suggestions?

My experienced bike building friend said he thought the wheels felt solid and probably do not need new bearings at this point. After looking at it, he thinks the bike probably didn't get ridden a lot, but just sat around a lot. He also said that he doesn't think we'll need to replace the chain right off the bat if it's not skipping. ????

I'm new to this stuff, so if there are more great suggestions, please send them my way. I'd like other opinions besides the ones my friend is giving me. He has sort of an "old school" way of doing things, which is cool, but I'd like all kinds of perspectives. Thanks again!!!!

The foam handlebar stuff will be easiest to cut off (that stuff is a bear to put on). Some bandage scissors would do the trick without scratching the bars. Once the bars are bare, you can loosen the brake levers and move them around until you like them. They are twisted too much inside right now. Ultimately you might prefer a different bar - those have a long drop and a short reach.

I would replace the rusty chain. You don't know if there is rust inside the pins that might make the chain weak. An SRAM PC58 would be a good replacement. If the cables have any rust at all (or maybe even if they don't) you should replace them and the housing and lube it up good. If it were mine, I'd want to open the hubs before long to check them out. And make sure the freewheel can be removed. Remember to grease the freewheel threads before you put it back.

[kaian]

The freewheel has 6 chain rings in the back, so wouldn't I need a 6 speed chain? It looks like the SRAM PC58 is an 8spd chain. Or does it not matter?

[Dogmama]

Wow is right! Who built it? I don't recognize the logo. Mmm...mmm.....sweet bike!


Thanks. It was built by a custom frame builder in Tucson, Andy Gilmour. Deb - yes it was built for me. The first time I road it, it was like wearing a really comfortable pair of shoes. It just fits. The cut out is a Thunderbird.

[Popoki_Nui]

The freewheel has 6 chain rings in the back, so wouldn't I need a 6 speed chain? It looks like the SRAM PC58 is an 8spd chain. Or does it not matter?

The chain DebW recommended should be fine. I use similar ones on my 5 and 6 speed vintage bikes with no problems. You probably won't be able to find new chains for 6 speed cogsets these days; cassettes are 8, 9, or 10 speeds now.

[kaian]

Okay...sorry for all of the questions, but I am really clueless as to the type of parts to get. What kind of brake pads would I get for the Dia Compe side pull brakes? Also, should I get new cables and housing for brakes and shifters? Do I need to stick to sidepulls or would it be easy to upgrade the brakes somehow in the future (inexpensively)?

Thanks again for all of the help.

My old school fixer-upper friend hasn't really mentioned replacing the brake pads or cables, so I just wasn't sure if it's a must and also what would be compatible.

[DebW]

Okay...sorry for all of the questions, but I am really clueless as to the type of parts to get. What kind of brake pads would I get for the Dia Compe side pull brakes? Also, should I get new cables and housing for brakes and shifters? Do I need to stick to sidepulls or would it be easy to upgrade the brakes somehow in the future (inexpensively)?


For brake pads, most any road brake pad will work, just not cantilever or V-brake. You can find original DiaCompe brake shoes here
http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?c=Brake&sc=Shoes/Pads&id=24151434173
or the Shimano 105 or Ultegra or KoolStop threaded on the same page will work. The old ones may be OK if they still feel like rubber, but if they feel hard, stiff, or dry, replace them. I'd suggest new cables and housing because (1) it cheap, (2) you have to pull the old stuff off anyway for rustproof treatment and it's easier to put back new than old, and (3) old ones could be rusty and more likely to break or have more friction.

It would be easier to stick with sidepull brakes. What else would you want? Centerpulls would require cable hangers on the headset and seatpost bolt. Cantilevers would require braze-on fork and seattube fittings.

[GLC1968]

OK, you steel women got me thinking...

There is a good looking 1985 Bianchi for sale near me. It's a 47 cm...which is my size (give or take...at least I'll be able to straddle it!)...and looks pretty nice. The listing is fairly sparse:

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/bik/224095476.html

From what is here, is it possible to tell if this is a good bike? Is it one I should get more info on and try to negotiate for, or is it one I should just pass up, for one reason or another?

Thanks for any insight!

[DebW]

OK, you steel women got me thinking...

There is a good looking 1985 Bianchi for sale near me. It's a 47 cm...which is my size (give or take...at least I'll be able to straddle it!)...and looks pretty nice. The listing is fairly sparse:

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/bik/224095476.html

From what is here, is it possible to tell if this is a good bike? Is it one I should get more info on and try to negotiate for, or is it one I should just pass up, for one reason or another?

Thanks for any insight!

Yeah, you'd need more info to evaluate this bike. But the weight makes me think that it's worth further investigation. You want to know the frame material. And you want more measurements to compare with your current bike to check the fit. Check the wheel size too.

[Kitsune06]

OK someone near me has a Cierra 12-speed tourer for sale for $40 and a vintage Schwinn Super Sport for $60. I'm asking about the sizes, but ballpark (as I've never *been* on a road bike) if I'm 5'4" and have a 31" inseam, what bike size should I look for?

[Popoki_Nui]

OK someone near me has a Cierra 12-speed tourer for sale for $40 and a vintage Schwinn Super Sport for $60. I'm asking about the sizes, but ballpark (as I've never *been* on a road bike) if I'm 5'4" and have a 31" inseam, what bike size should I look for?

Hmmm...it isn't quite as easy as that. There is a lot that must be considered when choosing a bike size. Assuming the bikes you're considering have parallel top tubes (as opposed to the newer sloping top tubes), the general rule of thumb is that when you stand straddling the bike, feet flat on the ground, you should have about 1" or so clearance between the top tube and your crotch. Mixte, women's, MTB's, and road frames with sloping top tubes require different measuring procedures (usually involving what is called "virtual top tube measurements"). But....there is also the matter of frame geometry. Just because you may have the requisite ~1" clearance doesn't necessarily mean the frame will be a good fit.
Probably the best thing you can do -if the seller is willing- is to take the bike(s) to your trusted LBS and have them assess the bike with you on it. They'll be able to tell you if the bike can be adjusted to fit you properly, of if it will be an exercise in frustration. If the seller is not willing to help you, try the toptube/crotch fit, check to see if you can adjust the saddle and post, stem and bars to an approximate fit, and decide from there. I'm sure others can add more info here as well.
FWIW, I'm 5'11" with a 35" inseam. I ride anywhere from 21" old skool MTB frames to 23.5" old skool road frames. Good luck. :)

~Sherry.

[DebW]

OK someone near me has a Cierra 12-speed tourer for sale for $40 and a vintage Schwinn Super Sport for $60. I'm asking about the sizes, but ballpark (as I've never *been* on a road bike) if I'm 5'4" and have a 31" inseam, what bike size should I look for?

If you google "bicycle fit" you'll find lots of info, including a few sites where you can type in your body measurements and come out with frame dimensions. Not that any of those are your "be all and end all" of frame dimensions, but they are a very good place to start. I even found one that, when I entered my dimensions, gave me the exact frame I'm riding (except it told me to use 172.5 cranks and I have 170s), the dimensions of which I've found by trial and error. And for reference, I have a 32 inch inseam and ride a 54 cm C-T seat tube, 54 cm C-C top tube and I'm 5' 7".

[GLC1968]

Thanks, Deb!

I did a little more research and found out that it is built of isihiwata 022 tubing and I believe that it is lugged. The Limiteds were all built in Japan and in 1985 switched to the Shimano 600 components. I don't know enough to know if any of this is good or not. I did ask for more information from the seller, so we'll see. I've seen mention of 700cc wheels on Limiteds for smaller women...so hopefully this bike has them as well.

I do wish it was Celeste though! :o

[mimitabby]

OK someone near me has a Cierra 12-speed tourer for sale for $40 and a vintage Schwinn Super Sport for $60. I'm asking about the sizes, but ballpark (as I've never *been* on a road bike) if I'm 5'4" and have a 31" inseam, what bike size should I look for?

Kitsune
here's my humble advice. Try the bikes out. I got myself sized and came out 49cm on one of those websites(I'm a half inch shorter than you and 30 years older)

I've been riding a 49cm road bike since May.. Just for fun i tried a 44cm Sunday and it was QUITE a bit nicer. and it's a cheaper bike. We have nice long legs so (we women) so we tend to end up on bikes too big for us. Now that I know that there is something that fits me better out there, I am fantasizing about MARINONI bikes... :D

[veloputt]

Enjoyed reading the threads--I am a lover of steel frames, and this summer I was led to an old OLMO (I think late 70s)--the guys at the shop were jealous that it could fit me, as too small for them. Some triathlete's old rain/training bike (she moved or something). Bright yellow, with lots of age spots that I've touched up w/ model paint. Had fun stripping it completely down, and learning how to rebuild it, and moving some components from the Mercian to the OLMO, and putting new Campy gruppo onto the Mercian... anyway, they are both very sweet bikes, though very different feel--the OLMO is definitely and Italian racing machine, and someday I might get my legs moving well enough to do her justice!!

Also I'd recommend trying compact cranks!!

[kaian]

One week until I start to work on the Miyata! I got new tires, tubes and brake pads. I still need to pick up a chain and new cables. I think I may want to replace the brake hoods. I think they are aero hoods - Popoki Nui posted earlier that they were. I saw some on Ebay, but I was wondering if I have to go with the aero hoods again or could I get non-aero. Anyone know?

I'm starting off with some basics and then after I get to ride it for a while, and I still like it, I'll probably do more work on it. I'll make sure to post pics of the process. :)

[DebW]

One week until I start to work on the Miyata! I got new tires, tubes and brake pads. I still need to pick up a chain and new cables. I think I may want to replace the brake hoods. I think they are aero hoods - Popoki Nui posted earlier that they were. I saw some on Ebay, but I was wondering if I have to go with the aero hoods again or could I get non-aero. Anyone know?


You need aero hoods. Aeros route the cables under the bar tape. Non-aero hoods are made for cable routing straight out the top of the lever, so you get big cable loops above the handlebars. I assume you are replacing the bar tape too.

[kaian]

Yes, I'll be replacing the handlebar tape. I'm still deciding on what kind/color to get. I bought some Profile red/black marble, but it looked terrible next to the bike! I welcome suggestions. :)

Thanks for responding. I'll probably get those hoods off of ebay soon.

[kaian]

Well, the transformation has started! On Sunday, myself and two friends (one of whom has rebuilt bikes several times) started working on the Miyata. We got a lot done, but there's still more to do. We cleaned the hubs thoroughly and repacked the bearings, we pulled the crank and bottom bracket and cleaned, repacked bearings and lubed everything there, cleaned up the derailleurs, and got new tubes and tires on. The components are so shiney, they almost look new. The chain is soaking as we speak. My friend and a local bike shop owner both said that the chain looked good, so....I'm going to give it a shot.

Next time we're going to check out the fork/headset area and clean, lube and adjust the brakes and shifters. After that gets done, the only thing left will be to do the touch-up paint and try to do some adjustments for fit. I may have to get a stem with more of a rise, but we'll see! I'll post pics once she is all clean and ready to ride.

I already purchased some Deda handlebar tape on ebay. Carbon silver. I decided to accent the silver logo. Can't wait!

[recycle613]

very cool. can't wait to see the pics.

[kaian]

The bike is almost done! My friend and I cleaned up the brakes and inspected the cables. They look okay - we relubed them and things seem to be working fine. We even pulled the headset and that will need to be replaced in the future, but for now, it's moving well. We relubed and repacked stuff. I found out I will need to get a new stem. The stem is at it's max and it has a negative drop to it, so I need to get something with a pretty good positive angle in order to make the bike more upright for me.

I did not see any rust inside when I pulled the fork/headset or the bottom bracket or seat post, so that is great news!

So...new stem and new chain and it looks like it'll be good to go, other than some touch-up paint. :) I will post pics when she is complete!

[kaian]

Hi again. So it seems I'm having a hard time finding a stem. I went to the LBS and they didn't really have anything that would work for me. I found the Nitto Techonomic online, but am not sure if it's the right stem. The current stem I have is 60mm, with a negative rise. The reach seems okay, but the stem is way too low. I found other stems by Nitto online, too - the Periscopa and the Dirtdrop and I can't figure out what to get. I need the handlebars up a couple of inches at least and can't figure out the whole angle thing. If I buy a stem with a positive angle of ___, how much closer will that bring the handlebars closer to me? From what I understand, if I have a stem with a big angle, I could get a stem that is longer than 60mm, right?

I also would like to spend $30 or less if possible.

Any input would be helpful.

[Triskeliongirl]

I am having trouble following what you want. Do you want a stem with a tall rise, and short reach? The nitto technomic is great for being tall in rise, and comes in a lot of reaches ranging from very short to quite long. It also looks really nice and is in your price range. I ordered one from these guys recently for a steel frame I am building up as a travel bike, and it came fast and in good shape for under $30 http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.asp?PART_NUM_SUB='1173-10'. On the nitto technomic, it is very tall, so you don't need it to be angled to get more height like you do on some, so just order the reach you need assuming it is going to project straight ahead. They come with reaches of 5cm-13cm. Just measure where you want the bars to be and order accordingly. Be sure to order for the correct size bars (the link I gave is for standard 26mm but they also make one for 25.4 you can get from places like Rivendell or Harris Cylery).