Installing a new stem

[Kalidurga]

Ok, Lisa's recent raving about her new short stem got me really paying attention to my handlebars. I do not feel like I could play piano while riding my bike. The new, highly recommended LBS tech that I talked to recently suggested I first try smaller bars, so I had him install a Salsa Poco (http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Poco+Handlebar&vendorCode=SALSA&major=1&minor=15) bar. On the test ride this evening, I loved the ergonomic feel of the new bar, but still feel that it doesn't solve my problem. My hands still want to sit a centimeter or so back from where they should be on the hoods and flat of the bar.

So, I'm back to the idea of a shorter stem. I don't feel that I need to go much shorter, so I'm looking at a Ritchey Pro Road Adjustable (http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Stem+Pro+Road+Adjustable&vendorCode=RITCHEY&major=1&minor=22) in an 80cm length.

My question is: Is this an installation that I can do myself, or should I put it in the shop for this? The mechanics of it look simple enough, but I don't know if I'll need to use a torque wrench for tightening the headset or steerer bolts. Will a regular wrench do, or do these bolts need to be tightened with more precision?

[KnottedYet]

I'm doing the exact same thing right now!

Just put Salsa Short-n-Shallows on my bike on Wednesday, still trying to move my hands back, so I'm getting a taller stem with a shorter reach.

Mine is a quill (like LisaSH has), so it is a bit different than yours.

When I bought my bars, the LBS ( www.recycledcycles.com ) told me how to change them and told me to bring the bike in when I was done and they'd check my work.

They checked my work and said I did it right. I knew at that point I was still going to need less reach and more height, and I had a contact with a used stem that would fit. So I asked the guys to explain to me how to switch that (they did). After I do that, I will again take the bike in if I feel they should check it. Actually, I feel like I can do it myself ok and unless I'm really worried I probably won't bother them until my next "legitimate" shopping trip. (to buy tires)

Those Ritchie adjustable stems are very nice, especially for fussing with fit! I test rode a Jamis Aurora with one, and it was cool to have the bars instantly adjusted to my preference just for the test ride!

At least with the "modern" stem you won't have to unwrap half the bar and take off the brifter and work the bar through the stem and out to change anything.

Did you check the Park Tool website? I like their online instructions and I love their book. www.parktool.com

[xeney]

We just put that exact Ritchie stem on my road bike. (I hate it. I hope it works better for you.) You just need some Allen wrenches -- a 4, a 5, and a 6. The hardest part is actually adjusting the adjustable stem -- installing it was a breeze.

[Kitsune06]

Is this "I could play piano" thing supposed to even go for those on mountain bikes or in a more 'aggressive' position?

[DebW]

Installing a stem on a fork with a threadless headset means that you are adjusting the headset at the same time. Unlike a threaded headset and quill stem in which the headset is adjusted to the frame independent of the stem. Look under "headset" on the Park website for directions. Not hard to do, but you need to know what a properly adjusted headset feels like.

[Kalidurga]

Thank you, Knotted & DebW :D I read the article on threadless headset adjustment at Park Tool and it sounds about as I figured. I could probably do it myself, but I'd be paranoid the whole time of not adjusting it properly. Better to leave it at the shop and have someone with experience take care of this, just in case.

Those bearing retainers shown on the Park Tool site are cool looking. I wonder if anyone's ever considered making a ring or bracelet that looks like one...

xeney, can you be more specific as to what's difficult about adjusting the Ritchey stem? The mechanics of it, or determining the "sweet spot"?

Kitsune: The "playing piano" thing is from a quote I read recently. I think it was credited to either Merckx or Hinault and of course I can't remember now where I saw it. Not being an mtb'er, I don't know how much it applies, but I'd guess that the same general principle would be at work. The way I interpret it is that you don't ever want to have too much of your weight or too tight a grip on the handlebar. There should be enough lightness and looseness to your torso, arms and grip that you feel you could play piano. How much that applies to hucking a drop or threading a rock garden, I dunno.

[xeney]

The mechanics of it. We expected that you'd just, you know, adjust it, but in order to do that we had to take the whole stem apart and then put it back together.

[KnottedYet]

i wonder if there are a couple different kinds of Ritchey adjustable stems? The one on the Jamis I tried this summer was a 10-seconds with an allen wrench job, and instant comfort.

Literally, the shop chick loosened the bolt, moved the toothed meshing bits until the bar was where I wanted it, and then tightened the bolt.

Edit: BTW, I decided not to change out my stem yet.

[xeney]

Or we could have a defective one. The one we bought had obviously been returned by somebody.

Either way, I hated it. I need the bars closer, not higher.

[Kalidurga]

Literally, the shop chick loosened the bolt, moved the toothed meshing bits until the bar was where I wanted it, and then tightened the bolt.

That's how I assumed it would be adjusted.

I'm estimating that I need my stem to be 1-2 centimeters shorter, based on where my hands end up on the hoods. Getting the Ritchey adjustable at an 80mm length will bring it in .5cm, then I figure it'll only take a slight upward adjustment to get that additional 1cm or so if I need it. There don't seem to be many 75mm stems out there, and I like the idea of adjustability for different terrains. When I'm on the rough towpath, it could be more comfortable to have my hands up and in a centimeter or two. When I'm on pavement and want to stretch out a bit, I could put it back down to level and have the full 80mm.

Thanks again, ladies. It's good to hear both pros and cons for any product.

So, Knotted, why'd you decide to wait?

[xeney]

That is definitely not how this one adjusts -- you can't adjust it without removing it and reinstalling it, which I assumed was a safety feature. 45 degrees of adjustment also turned out to be less than it seemed like it would be -- if you need the bars a lot closer, it's not going to be enough. But if you only need a centimeter or so, and if you want them higher, it will probably help.

[KnottedYet]

So, Knotted, why'd you decide to wait?

I have the new bars, which does change my position somewhat.

As I was riding the 15 miles to the shop with the used stem for sale, I felt like the bike and I "clicked". And I felt kinda regretful about moving the bars. Like, "darn, I won't feel like this after I bring the bar in closer". So I looked at the used stem, and decided not to get it yet. Plus the guy was asking $25 for a used Nitto Technomic (not a deluxe) which costs $25 new.:confused:

Rode another 15 miles. No shoulder pain, no hand numbness, no neck pain.

I figured it just took me a while to strengthen something. The bar is where it's "supposed" to be for touring purposes, and it feels fine right now. Even though I generally like to be a bit more upright.

But, If it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix (aka break) it.

[Kalidurga]

Actually, after today's ride, I've put a new stem on hold, too. When I was talking to the LBS guy who recommended my new handlebar, he commented that my saddle was all the way back on the rails. I thought nothing of it at the time, but today I remembered that I had marked the rails after my fitting. Sure enough, the saddle had somehow shifted back 1-2cm. So, I fiddled with it and noticed a big difference when I got back on the bike to continue my ride. My hands still sit a bit back from where I think they should be on the hoods, but they were in a good spot on the flats. Still couldn't play piano, but I was able to keep my elbows looser than usual.

I'll probably still get the Ritchey adjustable stem at some point (though I will definitely look at how it adjusts before I have it installed), but I don't feel as much urgency to spend that money now.

The one thing I do have to have fixed, though, is the angle of the hoods. One of them points slightly in toward the mid-line of the bike and the other points dead-on straight ahead. I just hate to ask the LBS tech to fix it, though, because he did an absolutely impeccable job of wrapping the bar tape :o

Knotted: What's up with the guy asking "new" price for a used item??

[KnottedYet]

Adjusting the brifter rotation in or out shouldn't change anything drastic for the tape. And you can do that yourself or have the shop guy do it. It'll take just a minute or two.

Do you have the Park Tool book? or go to www.parktool.com and look up your brand of brifter. You can loosen the clamp and move it then. Just be sure to flip the hood up off the tape so you don't drag on the tape when you rotate it.

I don't know why the $25 for the used stem. If it were a Deluxe, yeah, that'd be a good deal. Maybe he thought it was a Deluxe. I don't know. I didn't buy it, though. (and if I do decide to get one, I'll order myself a new shiney purty one!)