short cables?

[KnottedYet]

Are my new cables s'posed to be so short that they pull the front wheel to point straight ahead when I lift the front off the ground?

And if I put my new stem on which raises the bars by about an inch, am I gonna need to replace those cables because there is NO slack to take up?

Or is this Knot-Hysteria like the rust issue?:cool:

Actually, the new bars will be 4 cm narrower than the bars on it now, so maybe that will give some slack for the higher stem?

"when in danger or in doubt, run in circles scream and shout"

[Kitsune06]

AHHH! EEEE!!! AAAAHHH!!! EEEE!!!!

... I'd have to see the way they look 'at ease' but that sounds far too short to me. I'd wait on changing anything until you have the new components installed, though. Then go all out with the really, really nice cables.

[KnottedYet]

I did the nice cables last week, to the tune of $127. (with a complete "performance" tune and a couple other goodies)

If the dudes put the cables on too short, I won't give them a thank-you beer.

[DebW]

Are we talking about gear cables or brake cables or both? Does your brake housing run all the way to the brakes or stop and run as bare cable part of the way? When you turn the handlebars, do the brake pads start to tighten on the rims?

[KnottedYet]

Canti brakes, bare to the center of the loop of wire that pulls on the brake arms.

If the bare ffront brake wire hits the derailleur cables, yes the front pads close. No biggie, I don't turn like that.

But the tension on the der cables pulls the front wheel straight. Unless the headset bearings are worn and that's what's doing it. Oh, lordy-me, another thing to fret over!

Not a problem when I ride, except when I'm walking pushing the bike around corners and it catches.

My worry is if there is enough slack to put the new stem and bars on.

Its just me, and I just worry.

Somebody gimme a beer and a backrub and send me to bed.

[Kitsune06]

Gimme about 2 hrs to finish shift, and 4 hrs to drive... um... and beer money... and I might. Deep breaths! Go to bed. Flossie will be okay.

[Triskeliongirl]

I just changed my cables last week and it is sooooo easy. You just need to buy a good cable cutter, and a cable kit. I paid $10 for a set of durace cables and $30 for the cable cutter. You save $ and you can make them whatever length you want. My pet peave is that they bike shop guys never leave room for a handlebar bag! Wait for the new bars, and then if they need to be re-done, how about doing it yourself. If they left enough room at the ends, you may just need to re-cut the housing and re-thread them.

[velogirl]

Don't forget crimps -- you'll need new crimps, too!

[DebW]

Crimps. Crimps. I hate crimps. Never use crimps. Just leave some extra wire past the anchor so you can trim off the ends later if you need to.

[Pedal Wench]

Don't forget crimps -- you'll need new crimps, too!

And use these!

Colored cable crimps (http://www.ride-this.com/bike-Jagwire_Cable_end_crimps___Assorted_colors_020060020.html)

Sorry about the formerly-bad link - still figuring out how to do linkies. It's fixed now.

[velogirl]

After my couple of pokes with frayed cable I couldn't imagine not crimping. But I'm a woose (how do you spell woose?).

[SadieKate]

I'm a crimper also. You could solder the ends but after being poked and scratched, and having expensive socks ripped, I always use end caps. You can tuck the cable ends away but somehow they always seem to find you anyway.

Hey, PWench, your link doesn't work.

[velogirl]

http://www.ride-this.com/bike-Jagwire_Cable_end_crimps___Assorted_colors_020060020.html